Accessory 1 switch on right control pad

[Korkie]

2006 340 496mag, I have been trying to utilize the Accy 1 pigtail that comes out of the front breaker panel. I finally found it (wire #539) and when activating the switch I get a green on indicator light at the switch and can hear the contacts clicking down on the breaker box board, but get no light on my test light. Pulled the breaker and tested. Have power going through the breaker, but nothing at the supply wire. Any ideas out there, I am a bit stumped on this one?
Thanks, K

 

[mnm99]

2006 340 496mag, I have been trying to utilize the Accy 1 pigtail that comes out of the front breaker panel. I finally found it (wire #539) and when activating the switch I get a green on indicator light at the switch and can hear the contacts clicking down on the breaker box board, but get no light on my test light. Pulled the breaker and tested. Have power going through the breaker, but nothing at the supply wire. Any ideas out there, I am a bit stumped on this one?
Thanks, K

Funny, I had the exact same problem, I think... Is the #539 under the dash? I don't remember. I used FWD ACC to power my rear spot lights because I couldn't get the ACC 1 to work also. The wire for FWD ACC is under there too. I also used the REAR ACC for my under water lights. It's in the harness right next to the panel in the bilge. You know what...Let me check later and I'll get back to you. I used 3 out of the 4 ACC switches. I know one I couldn't get to work though. Sorry

 

[Korkie]

Found the issue. After an hour of troubleshooting with SeaRay, it turns out that on many 2006 340s, the red and violet wire, that is supposed to be powered by the Acc 1 switch is actually powered by that water pump switch on the same key pad. The one with the little wiggly line going through the small rectangular box. Activated that switch and power to the wire below, #535 or 539, whichever it is - worked. It is a 10 amp circuit on a breaker in the electronics module under the dash. You have to look at the ID stamp on the actual board, behind each breaker, to get what the breakers are actually powering. My front cover on that module is only partially correct. We found that the acc 1 switch goes to something, as I can hear it actuating a relay, but never figured out what. Either way, now have another switched power supply.

 

[scooper321]

So can you just connect to those wires and use them as a switched power source? Or are they also switching relays somewhere so you'd have 2 loads on the switch, with the relays being an unknown load?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Henry Boyd]

Found the issue. After an hour of troubleshooting with SeaRay, it turns out that on many 2006 340s, the red and violet wire, that is supposed to be powered by the Acc 1 switch is actually powered by that water pump switch on the same key pad. The one with the little wiggly line going through the small rectangular box. Activated that switch and power to the wire below, #535 or 539, whichever it is - worked. It is a 10 amp circuit on a breaker in the electronics module under the dash. You have to look at the ID stamp on the actual board, behind each breaker, to get what the breakers are actually powering. My front cover on that module is only partially correct. We found that the acc 1 switch goes to something, as I can hear it actuating a relay, but never figured out what. Either way, now have another switched power supply.

Actually it is easier to look at the wiring diagram. It will show the pin out position if the boat is equipped with an EIM, and color code / ID. Sea Ray is also pretty good at printing the name of the function on the wires themselves. For example, blue (?) wires used for cabin lighting are marked with a label. Older boats with non SmartCraft engine technology had pink wires labeled 'fuel'. Your ACC1 wire should have that on it as well.

Henry



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[scooper321]

Found the issue. After an hour of troubleshooting with SeaRay, it turns out that on many 2006 340s, the red and violet wire, that is supposed to be powered by the Acc 1 switch is actually powered by that water pump switch on the same key pad. The one with the little wiggly line going through the small rectangular box. Activated that switch and power to the wire below, #535 or 539, whichever it is - worked. It is a 10 amp circuit on a breaker in the electronics module under the dash. You have to look at the ID stamp on the actual board, behind each breaker, to get what the breakers are actually powering. My front cover on that module is only partially correct. We found that the acc 1 switch goes to something, as I can hear it actuating a relay, but never figured out what. Either way, now have another switched power supply.

So did you need to turn on BOTH ACC1 AND the Squiggly switch, or was #539 only connected to the Squiggly switch?

 

[scooper321]

Would love some help here, gents. Where are the pigtails for the FWD ACCY and ACCY2 and Squiggly? I was looking under the helm today and see the massive harness coming from the helm breaker box. But I couldn't find any unconnected pigtails in that rats nest. Where do you find the pigtails for the ACC connections?

 

[Korkie]

Would love some help here, gents. Where are the pigtails for the FWD ACCY and ACCY2 and Squiggly? I was looking under the helm today and see the massive harness coming from the helm breaker box. But I couldn't find any unconnected pigtails in that rats nest. Where do you find the pigtails for the ACC connections?

Mine were just hanging out of the harness. My guess is PO had already found n pulled them out.

 

[scooper321]

Mine were just hanging out of the harness. My guess is PO had already found n pulled them out.

Thanks. I Googled something like "where are ACC1 and ACC2 wires Sea Ray". Found a link to another CSR thread where someone had pulled the boot back from the connector side to expose the wires. Wouldn't you know, mine was easy (it had a tear in it - someone had been messing around previously, I guess) and the first wire I saw was the one I needed. 533 or 535, I already forget. Interestingly, my schematics were WRONG. The schematics had pins 10 and 20 on the helm panel flip flopped in meaning from one schematic page to the other. But I found the right line, put the multi meter on it and verified it was connected to FWD ACC. My wire was only about 5" long, too. So a little fun to terminate to under the helm. But I got my NMEA2000 power node hooked up (and switched) now. So a productive day. Thanks!

 

[Korkie]

Cool. Glad you found them.