AC Winterize Direction

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Fill Ess

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Oct 16, 2020
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So first of all, my setup is like this: single AC unit underneath the v-berth. The water comes in through a pickup in the stern, into a strainer, then is pumped forward to the unit, and out a thru-hull in the bow.

To winterize, I was planning to use the AC pump to send AF forwards until I see it running out of the bow.

But I've seen a few videos/posts where it seems like most people do the opposite: add AF to the thru-hull in the bow and let it run aft through the hose, then pump, then strainer and out the hull by the bilge area.

Any good reasons why one method is better than the other?

Thanks!
 
Probably use less pink going front to back, but I've always done it from the A/C strainer to the front.
 
Whatever is easier for you.
I’ve pumped it through before but the last several years I have changed to blowing back from the hull fittings.
First I blow the system out from the hull fittings using my shop vac as a blower. When I see that there is no longer any water coming out the seacock, I drain the strainer and clean the basket then reassemble. I Pour about a half gallon of pink in the vac hose and blow it through the system, again, from the thru hull for a little insurance. When the admiral says she sees pink coming into the strainer, we’re done. If you are alone a little more pink to fill the strainer and it comes out the thru hull. We do both ac’s with one gallon.
 
Ok thanks guys. Are you leaving the line full of pink AF or blowing it out again afterwards?
 
Like @Strecker25 I used to push mine thru from the bow to stern with a drill pump. I'd wait until I saw antifreeze coming out the other end (boat on the hard). I did not blow mine out afterwards.

@Little Ducky I looked into the Sea Flush with my last boat, looks like a nice option.
 
Phil S said:
So first of all, my setup is like this: single AC unit underneath the v-berth. The water comes in through a pickup in the stern, into a strainer, then is pumped forward to the unit, and out a thru-hull in the bow.

To winterize, I was planning to use the AC pump to send AF forwards until I see it running out of the bow.

But I've seen a few videos/posts where it seems like most people do the opposite: add AF to the thru-hull in the bow and let it run aft through the hose, then pump, then strainer and out the hull by the bilge area.

Any good reasons why one method is better than the other?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You will find it hard to get the antifreeze into the strainer to allow the pump to maintain its prime long enough to pump enough it and the pump kicks off if it senses it has no prime.

it’s MUCH easier to just use a hand pump to reverse pump from the through hull exit back and you don’t need the AC pump running to do so. You can also do it from inside the boat by disconnecting the exit hose from inside. This is the kind of pump I use.

upload_2021-10-20_20-3-19.jpeg
 
I use the drill pump too and push it through from the thru hull back to the intake and leave the line full. I had to replace my AC pump when we bought the boat cause the molded elbow had been broken off and glued back on. Pump still works good so I'm gonna rig it up to use it instead of the drill pump
 
Have the Seaflush and works great. I am considering blowing out my fresh water lines this years rather than fill with AF. Using the shore line fitting will do 95% of the system, what are you guys (and gals) doing about the actual freshwater tank and 12v water pump and line up to the distribution tree?
 
Korkie said:
Have the Seaflush and works great. I am considering blowing out my fresh water lines this years rather than fill with AF. Using the shore line fitting will do 95% of the system, what are you guys (and gals) doing about the actual freshwater tank and 12v water pump and line up to the distribution tree?
Click to expand...

I drain the fresh water tank, drain the hot water heater, bypass heater (connect cold in to hot out with brass nipple). Then I hook up the compress to the shore input and set pressure around 35psi (do not forget to lower or you can blow out your regulator). Then open all faucets until only air runs out and flush the head. Then disconnect air and a gallon or two into the tank. Run through pump until all faucets run pink through hot and cold. Flush the head until pink.

The air clears out most of the water and Pink AF flush is my insurance for any water that may be remaining in the lines. On top of that I open sump and manually pump out as much as possible then I pour pink through the shower drain into the sump until it pumps out then pour pink direct to sump to make sure nothing but pink backflows into the sump.

-Kevin
 
Korkie said:
Have the Seaflush and works great. I am considering blowing out my fresh water lines this years rather than fill with AF. Using the shore line fitting will do 95% of the system, what are you guys (and gals) doing about the actual freshwater tank and 12v water pump and line up to the distribution tree?
Click to expand...
Yes, bypass, then drain the hot water tank. I then run the fresh water tank empty then put 6 or 7 gallons of pink into the tank at the fresh water fill. I re-prime the water pump (now pink) I then methodically turn each faucet, toilet and outlet on until it runs pink starting at the stern working my way forward.
 
For my freshwater I pump from my onboard pump directly out of an AF jug until I get pink out of all faucets then connect my air compressor adapter to my dockside water hookup and blow 25PSI through all faucets until air comes out. That way anything that doesn't get blown out is likely AF anyway
 
Creekwood said:
You will find it hard to get the antifreeze into the strainer to allow the pump to maintain its prime long enough to pump enough it and the pump kicks off if it senses it has no prime.

it’s MUCH easier to just use a hand pump to reverse pump from the through hull exit back and you don’t need the AC pump running to do so. You can also do it from inside the boat by disconnecting the exit hose from inside. This is the kind of pump I use.

View attachment 114081
Click to expand...

I use this HF pump first with no pink to just flush the lines with air only. When water stops coming out I hook up the tank of pink and pump until it comes out the pickup. Done! This is only possible because the A/C pump is mag driven and non-priming.

If you use this pump a little electrical tape wrap around the tip will help make a better connection and seal.

For anyone staying in the water it may be useful to install a fill/flush valve after the seacock. With that you can flush towards through hull pickup with air and then close the seacock. Then flush with air forward via the fill side. You can then also pump pink through the fill side.

-Kevin
 
Little Ducky said:
https://www.seaflush.com/

I like this little device..... but with some hardware store finds you might be able to make one.
Click to expand...

Seaflush works well but with A/C pump you need to gravity feed since the pump is non-priming. Now on the engines it works great with their "snorkle" setup. Seaflush and snorkle into strainer and hose into 5 gal bucket of pink. Start engines and the pumps will suck it right through. When pink is running out my water lift muffler drains I am done.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
Seaflush works well but with A/C pump you need to gravity feed since the pump is non-priming.
-Kevin
Click to expand...

I use the device and a shop vac to blow the pink through the AC system until it comes out of the through hull. It works pretty good but you better have a good sealed connection between the seaflush and the shop vac hose before turning on the shop vac or you are going to be wearing some pink. Last year was the 1st time for me doing a complete winterization and I learned the hard way. o_O

Since it was the 1s time doing this I set up my phone to confirm the pink was exiting the boat...... About one minute in the below video.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kPyIVRv0UVZXtyvhedhz2pJl8RyCt08l/view?usp=sharing
 
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