85 260 Sundancer side cabin windows
- Thread starter vaguy52
- Start date
Well, the solution will depend on the problem:huh:
Yes, you can buy replacement windows. There's lot's of styles out there. Search around on different manufacturer's websites. Bowmar, Beckson. There are others.
Yes, you can buy replacement windows. There's lot's of styles out there. Search around on different manufacturer's websites. Bowmar, Beckson. There are others.
Can't say for sure on yours, but usually they come apart like a clam shell. Unscrew them, clean and re-bed with good silicone.
If you absolutely have to replace, and can't find new ones that perfectly match, possibly you could use new ones that are slightly larger. Just make the hole in the hull a little bigger to match.
If you absolutely have to replace, and can't find new ones that perfectly match, possibly you could use new ones that are slightly larger. Just make the hole in the hull a little bigger to match.
keokie
Well-Known Member
- Dec 27, 2006
- 1,508
- Boat Info
- 2002 310 Sundancer, Westerbeke 4.5 Genset
- Engines
- 496's, Bravo III's, 2.2:1 Gears
Th side windows he's talking about are a bit unique. They look like these:
Carefully remove the black rubber strip that covers the screws. Remove the screws and clean and re-bed. They shouldn't leak after that.
Carefully remove the black rubber strip that covers the screws. Remove the screws and clean and re-bed. They shouldn't leak after that.
berth control
New Member
Mine leaked too, there are a couple things I did to make it stop (I already posted this in another thread, so sorry if it's repetative).
First, I checked the silicone around them from the outside. It was cracked so I replaced it and that helped a lot.
Second, I unscrewed the little covers (about one inch tall by three inches long) on the bottom of the windows. Under them are drain holes so the windows can drain water from the tracks. Make sure the are clear and not clogged.
Last, I took some of the rubber strips (they look like weather stripping) out from the inside of the boat. The strips hold the windows in place and help them slide in the tracks. I cleaned them and conditioned them and re-installed them. It is a little tough to get them back in there, but you can do it with patience.
Now no leaks at all. Not even if you blast them directly with a hose. I would guess your problem is in the silicone on the top of the windows towards the front of the boat. The windows make a curve there and the deck flexing at a different rate than the windows will work big cracks into the silicone. That was my main problem.
First, I checked the silicone around them from the outside. It was cracked so I replaced it and that helped a lot.
Second, I unscrewed the little covers (about one inch tall by three inches long) on the bottom of the windows. Under them are drain holes so the windows can drain water from the tracks. Make sure the are clear and not clogged.
Last, I took some of the rubber strips (they look like weather stripping) out from the inside of the boat. The strips hold the windows in place and help them slide in the tracks. I cleaned them and conditioned them and re-installed them. It is a little tough to get them back in there, but you can do it with patience.
Now no leaks at all. Not even if you blast them directly with a hose. I would guess your problem is in the silicone on the top of the windows towards the front of the boat. The windows make a curve there and the deck flexing at a different rate than the windows will work big cracks into the silicone. That was my main problem.
K-9
New Member
- Jul 4, 2009
- 477
- Boat Info
- 1980 sea ray sundancer 260 raymarine c120w radar/sonar+
- Engines
- 6.2mag 320hp
B3 seacore ss props
glad I'm not alone.. Taylor products have the seal/runner and other items to repair rebuild the window.:smt001
you know what I'll be doing this week windowR&R
and the rain is getting to me,soggy bottom:lol:
you know what I'll be doing this week windowR&R
and the rain is getting to me,soggy bottom:lol:
Oh, I see. Thanks for the pic. OK, I now change my response to "unfortunately, I think you're out of luck in trying to find replacement". But, as noted above, you should still be able to re-seal. I mean, it's not like it's the actual windows that are leaking, correct?
FYN409
New Member
- Jul 16, 2007
- 222
- Boat Info
- 88 Sorrento 25 Sundancer 26
330 HP 7.4 L Mercrusier
- Engines
- 7.4L 330 HP
I have similar issues with my side windows. When you say seal/runner are you talking about the rubber seal that holds the window into the frame? After some testing I believe this is where my leak is and am looking to replace the rubber. I have looked on Taylor Made's website but do not see anything like this. My windows do not open, so I have considered putting some silicone in between the glass and rubber to stop the water from coming in.
-Ryan
-Ryan
berth control
New Member
Like I said above, I think the first culprit would be the silicone on the outside, but if I had your windows (my last boat did) and they didn't slide to open, or you didn't care if they couldn't slide to open, I would pull out the rubber inserts and put some silicone in the bottom of where they sit. Then re-install the rubber before the silicone sets up and wipe of the excess that will no doubt be oozing out from both sides of the rubber as you install it. On my windows however, the rubber really does not do that much. Even if I took the rubber right out the water would have to be pretty heavy to get in the window, since it would need to fill the "channel" that the window sits in until it was full and running out the inside and outside, and if the little drain holes on the outside of the "channel" are open, that should never happen.
berth control
New Member
Here is a picture of the window that i drew, you can compliment my awesome paint skillz later! :lol: The picture shows the outside of the boat on the right and the inside on the left. The aluminum frame is screwed into the hull and deck from the outside of the boat, and the glass slides between the channels surrounded by rubber inserts. I am not looking right at my window, but if memory serves this it pretty much how they are put together. You can see that if the drain passage is open, the water would have to be pretty heavy to come in through the tracks/rubber seals. I don't think that they are really even designed to be sealed up that well, since the window needs to slide in those tracks, hence the drain holes.
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tobnpr
New Member
I have similar windows on my 390.
The problem is that while the outer track has weeps, the inner one does not.
On my boat, the windows run downhill towards the stern, and water that would get into the inner track would collect at the back corner and run over the top, soaking everything underneath it.
I caulked the hell out of the plexiglass windows, but inevitably some still leaked in.
I finally had a brainstorm and drilled my own weephole in the frame at the back corner from the inner track all the way through to the outside of the frame. Now, when water gets in the inner track and runs down to the back corner, it runs out the frame through the weephole.
The problem is that while the outer track has weeps, the inner one does not.
On my boat, the windows run downhill towards the stern, and water that would get into the inner track would collect at the back corner and run over the top, soaking everything underneath it.
I caulked the hell out of the plexiglass windows, but inevitably some still leaked in.
I finally had a brainstorm and drilled my own weephole in the frame at the back corner from the inner track all the way through to the outside of the frame. Now, when water gets in the inner track and runs down to the back corner, it runs out the frame through the weephole.
