8.1 Fuel Pressure

Yes, I was able drain the gas, and was able to crank over without plugs, then put them back and got the engine started. But there is a noticeable metal on metal sound (more than valve train); the sound follows the RPM.
Compression test was okay, and leak down test was okay at that #8 cylinder and its neighbor. Pulled the intake and the head. The head looks fine visually, but I suppose I could have it tested.
The #8 cylinder has a noticeable lower Top Dead Center and noticeable lower Bottom Dead Center than the others on that side.
I can roll the crank over by hand easily except at one spot: When #8 is at BDC, it gets tough and I need to use a breaker bar to keep turning. Once I get by that, it is easier until I return again to #8 BDC.
I am no expert, but it feels like a bent connecting rod, and it is contacting the block at the bottom.

Dang. Murphy's Law!
 
I believe I should wrap up this thread. I will likely start a separate thread about what to do with the hydro-locked engine.
Regarding the fuel pumps, the set from S & J Complete Fuel Injection Services was actually pretty nice. If I pull the vacuum, I get 40 psi on the fuel rail, which appears to keep that engine happy. I would have preferred to get a new low pressure pump inlet seal with the kit, but that is not the way it comes.
Re-building the pumps was worthwhile to me. Cleaning the debris from the water side of the pumps was worthwhile, since I now have a plug I can re-use and a process for flushing (I don't need to winterize).
 
I'm sorry to hear you wrecked your motor
 

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