58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

Thanks

Thanks for the info. Just ordered the tape. I was just watching YouTube videos and several were using the 4000. That makes sense, don’t want to have a disaster on my hands in the future. I really appreciate the heads up.

 

I would like to do some touch up painting in the engine room. I’m having a hard time finding the correct paint and color. Anyone have a clue?

 

Carter,

It sounds like either google drive or onedrive (from microsoft) could solve this issue with ease. Whatever provider you prefer using, just upload the file and share the link to the list of recipients.

 

Hey Alex,

How are you stranger? I'll give all that a try. I'm in the "Summer Florida Departure" mode this week, so I'll try dropbox next week. Onedrive, seems to mess with my computer - same with Google Drive...

 

Over-The-Air (OTA) TV

Update

Background: We had one sorta-kinda working TV when we first got to the boat last June. I posted an earlier note or two about that: no power at the Glomex amplifier, component video connections from Bose were hosed, no audio output from TV to Bose surround sound, etc… but we eventually got that working decently for OTA TV. We have no interest in satellite TV or radio, so we’ve disabled the KVH satellite antenna (almost obsolete anyway – anybody want it?), the Direct TV boxes, and the Sirius radio boxes. What remained is to sort out OTA TV to the staterooms, or at least the master stateroom. In these last couple days I’ve made some progress on antenna routing.

Coax from the Glomex antenna on the hardtop, starboard side, first goes to a Glomex 2:1 splitter/amplifier, up high to starboard in the entertainment center cabinetry. The other input is dockside cable.

The output coax from that Glomex splitter/amplifier goes to a 1:2 splitter (I added this; probably some previous owner removed one like it). This deviates slightly from the illustration in our Parts Manual, but conceptually fits with reality.

One output from that splitter goes directly to the saloon TV. The other output goes to a 2:4 splitter (maybe passive amplifier?) mounted on the bulkhead behind the saloon entertainment center. The other input to that 2:4 splitter is probably from the KVH satellite antenna (disabled).

The 4 coax outputs from the 2:4 splitter go to the bridge and the 3 staterooms. The coax output that goes to the master stateroom first goes to the Direct TV box (disabled) on the starboard side, just ahead of the master bed. (Another coax cable for satellite TV -- as marked -- also goes to the Direct TV box (no insight as to routing).

An output coax from the Direct TV box then crosses over to the port side of the boat for the master stateroom TV (and would have presumably delivered either OTA TV or satellite TV, depending on selection at the Direct TV box).

We get decent OTA TV reception when we’re in areas within about 35-40 miles of a transmitter and not blocked by buildings or whatever. Not so great at our home slip -- likely because of a combination of distance from transmitters, blockage, and a boatload of sailboat masts all around us – but it’s OK enough for our purposes (mostly local news, weather, some PBS shows). We were across the Bay last week in a wide open marina, got around 70 stations there, so it varies. (There are online sites to predict who can receive what where.)

As delivered, all original TVs on our 2006 boat were most likely PAL/NTSC analog tuners, i.e., prior to the changeover to digital signaling which wasn’t finalized until ~2009. Our saloon TV has probably been changed at least twice, judging from orphaned remotes, and the current one is a decent 32” Samsung Smart TV. Our master stateroom TV has at least been changed once, to digital; the current 24”? Insignia/FireTV is adequate but on the smallish side. The TV in the two guest staterooms are apparently original analog units, matching info in the Parts Manual.

When I said our saloon TV was sorta-kinda working, I didn’t mention two stray vertical lines on the picture screen. Distracting, at the very least. Because of that, I bought a 40” Samsung Smart TV over this last winter, intending to replace the saloon TV. For some reason this season, those two lines on the 32” Samsung have disappeared. (Yay!) So my plan as of today is to put the new 40” TV in the saloon, move the 32” TV to the master stateroom (assuming I can solve the mounting issues), move the small 24”? Insignia/FireTV to the bow stateroom (ditto mounting issues)… and turn the old TV in the bunk room into an anchor (to reclaim that space for something useful).

-Chris

 

INVERTER UPDATE

The project finished yesterday; all pretty straightforward. The short version is that we replaced the existing charger (a Charles 20A, apparently a replacement for the original ProMariner) for our bow thruster with a Victron MultiPlus 24V/3000W/170A inverter/charger. The 120V output of the inverter in turn will power most of our 120V circuits, excepting only the genset battery charger, the washer/dryer, and the accessory underwater lights that somebody added along the way. Our focus was largely about powering the AC fridges, preparing early morning coffee or Happy Hour hors d’ oeuvres, and servicing a few outlets without having to run the generator whenever we’re away from shore power.

Pre-existing charger:



New inverter/charger (note new ANL fuse, battery switch, etc.):



120VAC circuits circled in red are serviced by the inverter, circuits circled in blue are not, and there's now a cheesy "INVERTER" label (not shown in this pic) pasted over the original "Bow Thruster Batt Charger (24V)" label:



Nifty peripheral gauges. But there’s a phone app that looks slightly easier (haven’t installed that on my phone yet).



Our existing thruster battery bank is crap, inadequate starter batteries installed by the previous owner, not enough cranking amps, not designed to support house loads… but I’ll use it ‘til it dies and replace with something decent.

-Chris

 

Nice Chris,

Down South we need the A/C too much, so the genny is always on when away from the dock. Wish I could do that...

 

Seems to me when we lived down there, we could at least not run the A/C overnight at anchor from about November through about April...

-Chris

 

Keep in mind that on the 58 sedan bridge there is absolutely no way to get fresh air into the master state room. In my opinion, it’s one of the biggest downfalls of this boat. Having a master state room with all fixed glass really does impact the ability to not rely on air conditioning.

 

Ah. Good point. We had pretty good natural ventilation on the boat we had back then...

-Chris

 

I agree on A/C Nov - April, but many times we would be running heat!!

 

We live in Florida and I installed a 3000W inverter as well to power the entire 120V loads. Carter is correct, however, we still found it very useful. I would shut the genny off during the day as we were mostly outside either tooling around on the tender or swimming/ sunbathing, etc. Certainly, there times we would run the AC during the day for a little while if it was extremely hot or making lunch. We absolutely ran the genny at night for the AC.
Additionally, it was very useful in the Bahamas where electric is very expensive. I would run the 120v loads off the inverter and only use the dock power for the 240V. Loads. When the inverter batteries got low, I would just use shore power to charge them.

 

A possible correction. I suspect the coax from the Glomex antenna first goes to a 1:2 splitter (not mentioned above) before making it to that amplifier/A-B switch. One output of that would be the one to the amplifier/A-B switch, and the other would likely go to the AM/FM/etc radio on the bridge.

I'll probably put all this into a schematic, but haven't gotten a round tuit yet...

I'll add that I haven't yet figured out how to hear the bridge radio on the bridge. Music goes to cockpit, bow, probably boats on the other docks... but nothing comes out of our bridge stereo speakers. Haven't found a radio control that addresses that, and haven't identified wiring that could be part of the problem. Speaker wires to the amp (amps?) are a real rat's nest...

-Chris

 

So I’m new to the 58 (4 weeks) and especially the old technology of the Raymarine e120. The depth and temperature both worked when I picked the boat up a month ago but they aren’t working now. Keep in mind I’ve been messing with the e120’s to try and figure them out. Could I have some how turned the depth/temp off in the e120’s? I checked the connection to the transducer and it’s fine. Just want to make sure this isn’t self inflicted before I point to the transducer. Any pointers? Much thanks.

 

MAN paint color match:

—Moeller Color Vision #025109 Seafoam gloss white (outboard and stern drive)

https://www.marineengineparts.com/m...color-vision-paint-color-sea-foam-gloss-white

 

40" SALOON TV

We finally got around to mounting the new 40" Samsung TV in the saloon. Fits as if it was made for the locations, with only about 1" to spare on each side within the entertainment center cabinet.

The Sanus Accents SAN26BB mounting system is apparently NOT the original mount system... judging from some of the blank screw holes that became visible when we dismount the previous 32" TV. It was an easy mount to work with, though. I think Sanus doesn't make the exact same model anymore, but they still have similar ones...

The previous 32" Samsung was displaying two vertical lines down toward the left side of the picture, last year... partly the reason why I was upgrading in the first place... but this year, those lines went away. No clue about that. It looks like that means I can move it to the master stateroom, though, assuming I can work a decent mounting system there.

-Chris

 

Chris

I replaced the TV in the MSR a few years ago with a 32". Carter has the removal instructions I got from Sea Ray. The hardest part is loosening the glue and prying off the trim pieces, otherwise the new TV gets mounted to the same board. If I were you, with 32" smart TV's being so cheap, I'd just buy a new TV and toss the old one (with my luck the vertical lines would return as soon as I finished the install).

 

@bmac Thanks, Brian, I have the mounting instructions from Carter... but haven't looked closely at that yet.

The mount on the current and relatively lightweight 24" Insignia/FireTV that's in the master now is a swing-arm thing, I think not original... and I think also not heavy duty enough to support a 32" Samsung (which isn't really all that heavy).

I take your point, but I don't mind using the de-lined (?) Samsung for a while. I'm baffled about why the lines disappeared... or what caused them in the first place... but I've still got so many other things to fix it won't hurt to save a buck or two for a while... and moving the Insignia/FireTV to the bow stateroom will hopefully be another step to save a bit where I can.

-Chris

 

Thanks!

 

BOSE Lifestyle 48

New problem, this year. The Bose remote refused to work after we launched. At first, it would at least reset the house code but nothing else. Wouldn't turn the system ON/OFF. No way to tune a radio station. No way to start a DVD. No remote volume control (the biggy).

Talked to Bose customer service; no replacements available but they'll repair for relatively cheap. Sent it. It's back. They included a note that said they didn't see the symptoms I described, but their testing may or may not have "fixed" the issue. Still no workee.

(Also, the remote model we have was supposed to have ended at hull #524; we don't have the one listed for subsequent hulls like ours. No clue why.)

Actually, it seemed to be trying to work, at first... and I could select sources, control volume... but after about 20-30 seconds the system started switching back and forth between Mute/Volume. And then the remote stops working altogether.

Actually, the first time I called Bose customer service, the nice lady described a reset technique: unplug the power, main, and Acoustimass cables. Let it sit. Restart. I eventually did that several days later, at the back of the LS48 head. It didn't actually do anything that first time, but I've tried it again and it seems I can sometimes get back to the remote slightly working until the Mute/Volume things starts again.

The second time I called Bose, the nice man suggested trying a couple other reset techniques. I've forgotten what those were and didn't take notes... and they didn't work either. That's when he suggested sending the remote to them.

Some of this is leading me to believe the problem may be something else with the system that needs to be "reset" somehow.

What's an Acoustimass? Where is it? What does it look like? I think this is the one where the flat multi-wire cable goes... but I cant yet trace where it goes from behind the entertainment center cabinet. It disappears off into the sunset, and I'm not seeing anything that looks like it could be a sub-woofer or some such.

Ideas? I can call Bose again on Tuesday or so, but wondered if anyone has encountered a similar issue... and might suggest a fix...

Plan B (or C or D or whatever it is): I asked the nice Bose man if there's a replacement system that would take advantage of of the existing sub and cube speakers. Maybe not; he said their current stuff concentrates on wireless connectivity. OTOH, I could see scrapping the LS48 thing and replacing the surround sound somehow if it doesn't mean fishing wires all around Hell's half acre...

On a slightly different note: I connected our new TV to our router the other day, and all of a sudden we now have an extra 200-300 "stations" of free Samsung "TV Plus." Kind of like cable without the cable, I guess. Haven't reviewed much of that, but it was an unexpected serendipity if there's any decent content in there somewhere.

-Chris