500/520 DB official thread

I found them all to be the same if you cannot find replacements I would do as Jeremy suggested and put the damaged one up top.
 
Gees for $20 can’t imagine they’d hold up very well that door is heavy. but, for $20 buy a bunch and change them out every 3 years.
 
These are from the original manufacturer stamped on the rollers. PE Delmar is stamped on your rollers, so I'll let you know when I get them. M
 
Pictures of GT’s new rear bridge enclosure. I see no need for the lower half to have isinglass behind the couch or even behind the stairwell. 9D05E043-F777-4D92-B7A5-24523490842D.jpeg A021FA7D-3AE7-44E2-9F5D-DDC1C174F4E6.jpeg 69BCCCF2-0429-4B27-BEC6-E5A12C2937AE.jpeg 36E63BB8-82FD-4C6B-9725-9D6EDB484A96.jpeg Helps reduce cooling load but more importantly reduce the amount of isinglass you have to clean. I dock stern in since 2007 in the 420AC we had for ten years and GT II for four years. Some would be concerned about not seeing through the lower panels but not an issue for me.
I’m very happy with the finished product as Charlene & Chandler handled the project as if it were there own boat IMHO. Any questions, comments I had were addressed, resolved and they could not have been nicer to work with. I would & will use them again in a heart beat. Signature CanvasMakers, 102 N Hope Street, Hampton, VA 23663, 757-788-8890 [URL='http://www.signaturecanvasmakers.com/']www.SignatureCanvasMakers.com[/URL]
 
Pictures of GT’s new rear bridge enclosure. I see no need for the lower half to have isinglass behind the couch or even behind the stairwell. View attachment 102695 View attachment 102696 View attachment 102698 Helps reduce cooling load but more importantly reduce the amount of isinglass you have to clean. I dock stern in since 2007 in the 420AC we had for ten years and GT II for four years. Some would be concerned about not seeing through the lower panels but not an issue for me.
I’m very happy with the finished product as Charlene & Chandler handled the project as if it were there own boat IMHO. Any questions, comments I had were addressed, resolved and they could not have been nicer to work with. I would & will use them again in a heart beat. Signature CanvasMakers, 102 N Hope Street, Hampton, VA 23663, 757-788-8890 www.SignatureCanvasMakers.com

Looks great John... post a picture of the whole boat from a distance. Is that one glass or Ez2CY?
 
Those look the same too. Need to get specs off the existing trucks and match them up.

The OEM (Taylor Made) sells the trucks for about $50 each. All four are the same.
Trucks #5101120
 
Our boat can be with two Sirius XM Sat Tuners. One in the salon and one in at the helm. They are not connected in any way.

We updated and activated the helm Sat tuner and then tied the salon Bose tuner into the Helm Stereo RCA outputs to the inputs on the Bose. Now we can tune the helm to a Sat station and listen to it at either or both locations.

There are two receivers. Look on the roof there should be two antennas. The helm Sirius receiver should be located where the bridge air conditioner is on the left side of that hatch.

Found the Sirius unit exactly where you said it would be! Would have taken me forever to find it.

When I hit the sat button on the cmd4 it says invalid channel. I did some googling. Unplugged the CNET cable from the sir cl1 and reset the the CMD4. It would say updating for a bit then say invalid channel.

Any advice?

Tim
 
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Great idea. I hope Joe chimes back in. 2 uppers, 2 lowers. Thanks Jeremy, I'm making a call now to my marina. M
You are in that deep so why put old back in? Worst case put the tops back in as the tops.
That's like rebuilding your car's engine and reusing the bearings.....
 
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My plan is:
  • First, machine two Delrin bushings for the shaft logs that fit snugly in the log and the shaft can slide through but has no lateral play. These are to center the shafts in the logs. And build an alignment jig that will allow the shaft at the propeller side to rest and be adjusted.
  • Then when they block the boat i'll have them block level at the keel and level across the transom.
  • I'll set a string in the yard offset (can't go under) to the keel but parallel and that will be the longitudinal datum to set the shafts longitudinally parallel to the keel.
  • The keel, stringers, engine mounts, and engines should all be level and parallel to each other vertically which should result in the 7 degree downward shaft angle (the ZF gear output flange is 7 degrees). We will verify if this is the case in the initial measurements before tear-down.
  • We will measure the lateral parallel error for both shafts to the datum string we steaked in the yard to give us somewhat of a starting point.
  • Then everything gets disassembled and the struts go to the prop shop to check/correct for twist and straightness with new cutlass bearings.
  • Then we will install the shaft log bushings and slide the shafts to the coupler and align to the string for parallel to each other and the keel and establish the correct downward angles. At this point we should be able to move the engines to align the couplers as required. We are not expecting much if any sag/deflection in the shafts as they are only 8 feet long but 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
  • Once the shafts are in their happy spot and couplers aligned we then begin to fit up the struts and get them bedded.
If all goes well I should be able to rotate the shaft with one hand. I do know that Sea Ray didn't use much in the way of precision alignment or fixtures when setting up these boats and the logs were pretty much glassed in using a wet thumb for alignment. So this condition may have always existed..... Who knows.

Getting ready to haul out end of next week.
Replacement Tides lip seals came in today.
Delrin shaft bushings are machined and ready to go. Fun day....
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Question on QSM11 crankcase filter - does anyone know what the filter partner number is? I meant to take a photo of the housing before leaving the boat today and forgot!
 

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