500/520 DB official thread

[swaterhouse]

I just purchased a 21' aluminum Hewescraft fishing boat, which I will tow behind my SeaRay. Wondering if anyone has any advice on towing it, bridle setups, pulling in and out of marinas.

Link below is to a rigger in Ft Lauderdale with towing setups.
https://www.ropeinc.com/cat-mighty-tow.html

Pulling and out you would want to reel in and short tow, be super careful with the excess line on deck that no one gets wrapped in it. Best if you have someone who can drive the towed boat while docking and un-docking otherwise you basically need to dedicate a crew member to tend the line and fend off when needed.

 

[h_gerry]

Yes, extensive plans to install a pair of inverters operating in split phase. I still think we will be balanced but can move the water maker to the other side if it's a problem. The plan was to get the inverter additions done this spring but a lightning strike has deferred that to next year. These plans are under review for compliance to ABYC and hope to get it all finalized in another couple of months.... The batteries, all ten of them, will be located behind the solon sofa. The ten batteries will be about the same weight as the two 8D's on the same port side. The goal is to operate the HVAC systems over night without the generator running.
These are the plans -

Very nice plans!
Just curious, why are you not feeding the hot water heater from the inverter? I would believe that would be one of the items that you would want running to ensure an adequate hot water supply in the morning.

 

[Skip Boyer]

Anyone pay attention to the raw water flow for A/C units ? Two units on deck/one pump. All good with that. Three units down below ( master, guest, salon ) all run on same raw water pump. Original set up, ( as I found it ) has 1000 gph pump with a three split manifold, supplies all three units. Salon unit pushes discharge water out of thru hull on stbd side with no problem. Guessing at least 12 inches out from side of boat, solid stream. Guest unit and master unit discharges are tied together and expel water thru a 2 inch discharge in the equipment room. The discharge here is more of a trickle. Originally had a problem with guest system showing high pressure, master unit no problem. Change/clean strainers regularly, Start having problem with high pressure shutdown on master stateroom unit. I continue troubleshooting the problem. I have put shut off valves in place on all three line directly off the pump. I have separated the discharge for guest and master and connected them to individual thru hulls. Still have excellent discharge from salon unit. Acceptable discharge from guest unit. Not at all happy with the drisel from master unit. If I shut off valves so that only the master it running it is still just not enough flow. If I connect to 60 psi dock water supply I get good flow from this discharge. Now my question....anybody else have this problem ? What pump are you using ? Im at a loss here. Don't have any hair to pull out. Please help ?

 

[rlynch03]

Guys can you confirm which Zinc's you have on the running gear? I have the below but worried I might be missing a couple... Do you have any on the Rudders or Propellor Shafts?

• Qty 4 Round 4" Zinc on the Hydraulic Lift Frame
• Qty 2 Round 4" on the Trim Tabs
• Qty 1 Bullet on the Bow Thruster
• Qty 1 Rectangle Stern Zinc 10"x4"

 

[Havana Shamrock]

I have shaft zincs, also intake zincs but I’m not sure the size



NAME CODE QTY PRICE
ZC-406 Zinc Anode (B-12) ZC-406 1 37.99
R-3 Rudder Zinc Anode - 3-3/4" Dia. R-3 2 10.02
Camp X-11 Shaft Zinc Anode - 2-1/2" X-11 2 36.31
BP-195A Alum Anode for Vetus 125 & 160 Bow Thrusters (SET0151A) BP-195A 3 16.56
Cummins QSM11 Engine Zinc Anode Kit QSM-Kit 2 34.18
Subtotal 248.
Tax 0.00
Grand Total 248.69




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[Jeremygavin]

Guys can you confirm which Zinc's you have on the running gear? I have the below but worried I might be missing a couple... Do you have any on the Rudders or Propellor Shafts?

• Qty 4 Round 4" Zinc on the Hydraulic Lift Frame
• Qty 2 Round 4" on the Trim Tabs
• Qty 1 Bullet on the Bow Thruster
• Qty 1 Rectangle Stern Zinc 10"x4"

That’s what I have for zincs. I was told that shaft zincs are not needed by numerous qualified people. There where on my boat when I purchased it but I have left them off for 2 seasons now.

 

[rlynch03]

I have shaft zincs, also intake zincs but I’m not sure the size



NAME CODE QTY PRICE
ZC-406 Zinc Anode (B-12) ZC-406 1 37.99
R-3 Rudder Zinc Anode - 3-3/4" Dia. R-3 2 10.02
Camp X-11 Shaft Zinc Anode - 2-1/2" X-11 2 36.31
BP-195A Alum Anode for Vetus 125 & 160 Bow Thrusters (SET0151A) BP-195A 3 16.56
Cummins QSM11 Engine Zinc Anode Kit QSM-Kit 2 34.18
Subtotal 248.
Tax 0.00
Grand Total 248.69




Buyer's Comments: N/A






You are receiving this email because you placed an order with BoatZincs.com 978-841-9978

Privacy Policy | Contact

Thank you for the info...

Do you Have Rudder Zincs also?

What does the Intake Zinc Look like?

 

[Havana Shamrock]

I do not have rudder zincs and was told shaft zincs weren’t installed by sea ray any longer but I kept replacing them (more protection ) here’s the sea strainer zincs
May not be your exact size but you get the idea. Ps, make sure you get Alluminum zinc for the thruster
SZ-1 Sea Strainer Zinc Anode

​

Length: 3-7/8"
Width: 1-1/2"
Thickness: 1/2"
Hole Distance: 1-1/2" center-to-center
Hole Diameter: 5/16"
Weight: 0.3 lbs

• Used on South Bay style rectangular scoop sea strainers.

 

[ttmott]

On the QSM11 engines -

• Fuel Cooler on inlet to raw water pump - Was one E-1G pencil zinc on each end of cooler now revised to E-1G zinc on inlet only.
• Raw water pipe between raw water pump and aftercooler - one E-2 pencil zinc next to aftercooler
• Raw water pipe between aftercooler and heat exchanger - was two E-2 pencil zincs at each end of pipe and revised to one E-2 next to heat exchanger.
• Gear Oil Cooler - Was one E-1G pencil zinc on each end of cooler now revised to E-1G zinc on inlet only. Can be two however.

Onan Generator -

• One E-1G zinc on inlet end of heat exchanger

Trim Tabs -

• One R-3 on each trim tab

Hull -

• One B-12 on transom

Bow Thruster -

• Required but can't remember the number for Vetus. I think SET049....

Hyd Swim platform and aft thruster I don't know about.....
that's it..... none on shafts and none on rudders. A boat can be over-zinc'd and just as much damage can occur as under zincing....

 

[Havana Shamrock]

I heard the reason sea ray stopped using shaft zincs was they would sometimes fall off and hit the hull and they didn’t want the liability. So shaft zincs are over zink Ing the boat? Also the stern thruster zincs are the same as bow but you need 2

 

[ttmott]

I heard the reason sea ray stopped using shaft zincs was they would sometimes fall off and hit the hull and they didn’t want the liability. So shaft zincs are over zink Ing the boat? Also the stern thruster zincs are the same as bow but you need 2

Let's think about this - gear is about a 50% ratio to the engine's RPM's so maximum shaft rotation is 1150 RPM but more realistically 900 RPM. Shaft diameter is 2.5 inches (7.85" circumference) so a velocity at the tangent would be around 9.8 feet per second utilizing 100 percent of the rotational velocity converted to linear energy. We know that friction is not infinite between the shaft and zinc especially if loose so let's say we can convert 50% of the shaft's energy to an ideal linear velocity so that would be around 5 feet per second at best for the zinc hurling towards the hull (mass of the zinc aside). Now we need to consider the frictional coefficient of the water which is complex but roughly will be the cube root of the distance so let's guestimate we will loose over 40 percent in velocity (assuming the hull is 6 inches away) our resultant velocity reduces to roughly 3 feet per second at a potential hull contact. Now we have an additional vector of the water flowing from the bow to stern at approximately 26 feet per second which is 18 MPH. Note this doesn't consider the additional velocity that the propellers are drawing water but only the boat's velocity through the water. So again but applying a perpendicular vector to our zinc traveling towards the hull at 3 feet per second we find within a few inches the zinc is reduced to to near zero velocity with respect to the water and that the zinc would barely tap the hull but rather has a greater chance hitting the propeller. Oh, and I didn't consider the effect of a negative force of 22 feet per second per second (gravity).
Just some data to consider....
Without going beyond these guesses I would say that SR is not correct on the assumption that a shaft zinc flying off the shaft will be doing any appreciable damage to the hull.

 

[Charlesoceanone]

I do not have rudder zincs and was told shaft zincs weren’t installed by sea ray any longer but I kept replacing them (more protection ) here’s the sea strainer zincs
May not be your exact size but you get the idea. Ps, make sure you get Alluminum zinc for the thruster
SZ-1 Sea Strainer Zinc Anode

​

Length: 3-7/8"
Width: 1-1/2"
Thickness: 1/2"
Hole Distance: 1-1/2" center-to-center
Hole Diameter: 5/16"
Weight: 0.3 lbs

• Used on South Bay style rectangular scoop sea strainers.

View attachment 88612

I was also told Sea Ray did not recommend shaft zincs.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Let's think about this - gear is about a 50% ratio to the engine's RPM's so maximum shaft rotation is 1150 RPM but more realistically 900 RPM. Shaft diameter is 2.5 inches (7.85" circumference) so a velocity at the tangent would be around 9.8 feet per second utilizing 100 percent of the rotational velocity converted to linear energy. We know that friction is not infinite between the shaft and zinc especially if loose so let's say we can convert 50% of the shaft's energy to an ideal linear velocity so that would be around 5 feet per second at best for the zinc hurling towards the hull (mass of the zinc aside). Now we need to consider the frictional coefficient of the water which is complex but roughly will be the cube root of the distance so let's guestimate we will loose over 40 percent in velocity (assuming the hull is 6 inches away) our resultant velocity reduces to roughly 3 feet per second at a potential hull contact. Now we have an additional vector of the water flowing from the bow to stern at approximately 26 feet per second which is 18 MPH. Note this doesn't consider the additional velocity that the propellers are drawing water but only the boat's velocity through the water. So again but applying a perpendicular vector to our zinc traveling towards the hull at 3 feet per second we find within a few inches the zinc is reduced to to near zero velocity with respect to the water and that the zinc would barely tap the hull but rather has a greater chance hitting the propeller. Oh, and I didn't consider the effect of a negative force of 22 feet per second per second (gravity).
Just some data to consider....
Without going beyond these guesses I would say that SR is not correct on the assumption that a shaft zinc flying off the shaft will be doing any appreciable damage to the hull.

ok my brain hurts reading this but you saved me 2 shaft zincs next changeout.

 

[ocgrant]

ok my brain hurts reading this but you saved me 2 shaft zincs next changeout.

Well said!!!

 

[rlynch03]

Same here. fortress FX37 in a bag thing held 5 or more boats

Have you guys with the Extended Platforms tried to use a stern and front anchor for over night? I have wanted to but I am always concerned a bit of swing and the line will catch on the edge between the boat and the extended platform or on the dingy brackets and cause some damage.

Thoughts?

 

[j98052]

My port engine has been idling rough, bouncing between 620-630 RPM, so after docking (after 2 hour trip) I put in "Throttle Only" and revved it up to about 1700 for about 5-6 seconds. A cloud of gray smoke came out of the exhaust, and then the engine settled down and idled normally at 600 RPM.

After I shut the engines down, I went into the engine room, and I noticed a small dribble of water from the same engine, coming from (I think) under the exhaust manifold. I took a closer look, and there is a valve of some sort (see photo) where the water was coming from. Not a lot of water came out, at most 1/4 cup.

I let the engines cool down, and then started it back up about 2 hours later. It idled normally, and no additional water came out.

Does anyone know what this valve is? And is it unusual for water to come out of it?

 

[j98052]

My port engine has been idling rough, bouncing between 620-630 RPM, so after docking (after 2 hour trip) I put in "Throttle Only" and revved it up to about 1700 for about 5-6 seconds. A cloud of gray smoke came out of the exhaust, and then the engine settled down and idled normally at 600 RPM.

After I shut the engines down, I went into the engine room, and I noticed a small dribble of water from the same engine, coming from (I think) under the exhaust manifold. I took a closer look, and there is a valve of some sort (see photo) where the water was coming from. Not a lot of water came out, at most 1/4 cup.

I let the engines cool down, and then started it back up about 2 hours later. It idled normally, and no additional water came out.

Does anyone know what this valve is? And is it unusual for water to come out of it?View attachment 88702

Looking at the Cummins service manual (enclosed) the water appeared to come out of the bottom of the expansion tank (#4), but it was water, not coolant.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Have you guys with the Extended Platforms tried to use a stern and front anchor for over night? I have wanted to but I am always concerned a bit of swing and the line will catch on the edge between the boat and the extended platform or on the dingy brackets and cause some damage.

Thoughts?

the idea of the stern anchor is to stop you from swinging and hold a position the line is usually taught as I said we’ve had many boats rafted and using a stern anchor to hold us if it does rub on the platform a little it’s no big deal put a towel or some type of chafing on the line where it contacts the boat.
Re_read your post, the line should be taught enough not to get between the platform and the lift my anchor has 25’ of chain and 150’ of line so it’s placed very far from the boat making it at an angle where it really doesn’t interfere

 

[ttmott]

My port engine has been idling rough, bouncing between 620-630 RPM, so after docking (after 2 hour trip) I put in "Throttle Only" and revved it up to about 1700 for about 5-6 seconds. A cloud of gray smoke came out of the exhaust, and then the engine settled down and idled normally at 600 RPM.

After I shut the engines down, I went into the engine room, and I noticed a small dribble of water from the same engine, coming from (I think) under the exhaust manifold. I took a closer look, and there is a valve of some sort (see photo) where the water was coming from. Not a lot of water came out, at most 1/4 cup.

I let the engines cool down, and then started it back up about 2 hours later. It idled normally, and no additional water came out.

Does anyone know what this valve is? And is it unusual for water to come out of it?View attachment 88702

That hose barb appears to be on the bottom of the aftercooler and if it is dripping a lot of water then the core in the aftercooler is probably leaking. That will cause issues with the engine. The barb seems to be a later addition as mine doesn't have it (2006). I would think a drain hose should be attached. In the colder climates condensate can form on the cold aftercooler core and would be drained by this. So, if you are in salt water then taste what is dripping - if it's salty you need to get the aftercooler serviced.

 

[Michael Riglietti]

Figured I’d start one post up upgrades,repairs,questions.