500/520 DB official thread

Tim Fila said:
Do you remember what the fridge removal entails?

Tim
Click to expand...
It is easy to remove. There are 4-6 screws in the perimeter flange of the fridge. Remove those and slide it out. The wire leads are long enough to slide it out of the way and not have to disconnect them.
 
Tim Fila said:
We will be putting the boat for sale shortly. Just trying to get everything in top shape.

I need to put a new TV up on the wet bar on the bridge. I'm assuming there is an outlet under the counter. I'm trying to visualize everything at home as we won't be back until this weekend. Does the fridge have to come out to get access or is there an easier way?

Tim
Click to expand...
Yup refer needs to come out. The TV uses the same receptacle as the refer. Easy to pull the refer.
 
Tim Fila said:
Do you remember what the fridge removal entails?

Tim
Click to expand...
When I changed out my bridge tv on my 52 I was fortunate enough that the new tv used the same plug. It pulled out from back of tv and plugged right back in. Assuming of course you tv plug will do that. I also seem to remember being able to see that outlet through the access by the garbage can.
 
Sure has been a lot of 500/520 DB sold this year yours will be the 5th that I know about the other 3 I know personally. Good luck with your sale.
 
Anyone know how this hatch comes out? It screws from the top and underneath. Looks like there is a joint however it appears to still be welded so not a complete joint that would separate.

9EC60792-EBB5-495C-8BE3-FF5474ECC9EE.jpeg
 
rlynch03 said:
Anyone know how this hatch comes out? It screws from the top and underneath. Looks like there is a joint however it appears to still be welded so not a complete joint that would separate.

View attachment 132755
Click to expand...
On zooming in it looks like that lip at the very top separates but maybe not.
 
rlynch03 said:
Anyone know how this hatch comes out? It screws from the top and underneath. Looks like there is a joint however it appears to still be welded so not a complete joint that would separate.

View attachment 132755
Click to expand...
techmitch said:
On zooming in it looks like that lip at the very top separates but maybe not.
Click to expand...
Chat started at 2:07 PM
  • A
    Thank you for contacting Taylor Made Products. How may I help you?
    Ashley A

    2:07 PM

  • Looking for an exploded view of your Taylormade ultra II deck hatch 20'X20" I believe the part # is 50013 but not sure.
    2:10 PM
  • A
    Thank you for contacting Taylor Made Products with regards to replacing/repairing your Taylor Made windshield/hatch/port light/door glass/assemblies. Taylor Made Systems is our sister company, manufacturer of windshields and hatches. Please contact them at 518-773-0636, or email them at tms@taylormadesystems.com
 
Thanks Mitch. Figured it out. It separates at the inside lip. Will post more pictures soon.

222056ED-1960-4D1D-B36F-623FBFD31B8A.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Wife hollers at me that the front bathroom overhead lights went off. I walked in to the cabin and immediately smelled electrical burning. Narrowed it down to the light above the toilet. Pulled it down and one of the wires was loose and had melted the top of the fixture. That could have gotten ugly. Thank goodness it tripped the breaker.

Where do I go and what fixture matches?

Thanks
Tim
 
One of mine cracked, and I wound up replacing both with new fixtures that have LED bulbs and a USB charging port. They look nice and use less power! I can find the link to buy them if you’re interested.
 
Has anyone replaced any of the sheets? The bottom sheet for the forward stateroom has lost it’s elastic and doesn’t stay on anymore.
 
Someone on SBMAR.COM responded to a post with the below. What do you guys think?

QSM 11:
The goal is 20 GPH at 2100 rpm not 1950. That 150 rpm difference causes a lot of heat in the exhaust and excessive exhaust heat is the mortal enemy of your engine and mine. There are 3 articles in the Tony's Tips section dedicated to the QSM and exhaust health. They all end up recommending 20GPH@ 2100.
I installed Exhaust Gas Temp probes and gauges this year and have been using them and messing around with different RPM running. I can see EGT decrease when I advance the throttles from 2220 - 2300. I can also see an increase in EGT when we back off to 2100. What looks like small moves on the RPM dial translates to some pretty big temp swings in the EGT. The only way to see that is an EGT gauge.
I took 2 inches total out of our props and I am about 1 gallon per hour per engine over the mark at 2300 depending on load. Our engines(6CTA480CE) have cooled manifolds and Turbos so the issue I need to remedy is the Exhaust Valve Seats. New cylinder heads this off season. We did all of the proper mods first to dial in engine load before having the heads replaced. Order of operations is important for remediating these types of issues.
Your vessel speed is ~24.6mph @1950. To save the long term life of your engines you will need to pitch down even more than you have already which may translate into running a little slower from a vessel speed perspective while the engine is turning a slightly higher RPM. With the QSM it is 20GPH at 2100rpm and let the speed chips fall where they may. Our vessel speed is ~22.5 on a cruising load and will increase to 23.5 - 24 as we burn through a load of fuel. For me, Peace of mind is worth sacrificing a couple of miles per hour. Your call and wallet.
Search the forum for author Larry Backman. You can read his experience and EGT values for his QSM. It is instructive and can give you extra guidance.
 
rlynch03 said:
Someone on SBMAR.COM responded to a post with the below. What do you guys think?

QSM 11:
The goal is 20 GPH at 2100 rpm not 1950. That 150 rpm difference causes a lot of heat in the exhaust and excessive exhaust heat is the mortal enemy of your engine and mine. There are 3 articles in the Tony's Tips section dedicated to the QSM and exhaust health. They all end up recommending 20GPH@ 2100.
I installed Exhaust Gas Temp probes and gauges this year and have been using them and messing around with different RPM running. I can see EGT decrease when I advance the throttles from 2220 - 2300. I can also see an increase in EGT when we back off to 2100. What looks like small moves on the RPM dial translates to some pretty big temp swings in the EGT. The only way to see that is an EGT gauge.
I took 2 inches total out of our props and I am about 1 gallon per hour per engine over the mark at 2300 depending on load. Our engines(6CTA480CE) have cooled manifolds and Turbos so the issue I need to remedy is the Exhaust Valve Seats. New cylinder heads this off season. We did all of the proper mods first to dial in engine load before having the heads replaced. Order of operations is important for remediating these types of issues.
Your vessel speed is ~24.6mph @1950. To save the long term life of your engines you will need to pitch down even more than you have already which may translate into running a little slower from a vessel speed perspective while the engine is turning a slightly higher RPM. With the QSM it is 20GPH at 2100rpm and let the speed chips fall where they may. Our vessel speed is ~22.5 on a cruising load and will increase to 23.5 - 24 as we burn through a load of fuel. For me, Peace of mind is worth sacrificing a couple of miles per hour. Your call and wallet.
Search the forum for author Larry Backman. You can read his experience and EGT values for his QSM. It is instructive and can give you extra guidance.
Click to expand...
I've taken 2 inches plus out of the props with nothing but good results. I don't have EGT measurements, but the load went down considerably and I'm tracking 36 GPH (combined) at 1900. After adding the Presto davits and the 500 pound Highfield I now am using much more tab and the load has increased about 8 percent with a corresponding hit on fuel economy. I'll say that my boat takes a good set and feels like it is happy at 1900 so that is my cruising RPM.
 
2100 RPM is great if calm seas. Not possible if rough. Anyway, I took 2 inches out and had 0 change. I am above 20GPH but below 1000 degrees at 2000rpm.
 
I recall seeing 2100 mentioned vaguely in all of the research that I've done but 18 GPH @ 2000 is what's burned into my brain. That being said, I was running at 2070 last week with EGT's around 985 and 67% load so I think I could get away with it and the extra speed was nice. My EGT's drop with every RPM increase above 1700.
 
As a result of periodic cycling on one of the vacuflush units, I had a tech come out. Every time I do this, regardless of the company, they pitch me hard on ditching the vacuflush and replacing it with an electric macerator system. While I get annoyed with the sales pitch, I'm starting to think about replacing the units. They're 12 years old, and they require a decent bit of service every 2 years, and as they age need more new parts.

I'm wondering what the pros and cons of switching are. This company is recommending the MasterFlush product - https://marinesan.com/masterflush-8120-short/

Any insights appreciated.
 
My units are 17 years old. Had an almost rebuild of every seal in the master 3 years ago. Guest is probably coming in the off season. I'll take a look at this. I wonder what install is like?
Edit: I'd go tall. I'm 6'4"
 
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