500/520 DB official thread

Holy f@%k...that sounds like a nightmare. I took mine out years ago to run the pyrometers from the ER to the bridge. But I just slid it to the side without disconnecting the myriad of shit in there.
You did it the hard way - in that lower cabinet in the back is a hatch that accesses the wire harness penetration into the engine room and also the path to the audio remote in the cockpit, then above butting into the ceiling is that curved padded panel which pulls out and off. With these two areas open you can access all of the wiring including the bridge HVAC raw water hoses and able to route wiring between the bridge/helm, the lighting and audio in the cockpit, and engine room. The PITA is SR put wire ties all down that harness behind the cabinet and it's almost impossible to pull old wiring out of the boat.
Tom
 
So in order to get air in the line it would have to be the supply line correct?
The supply "system" -
A broken or corroded siphon tube in the tank
Leaking elbow connecting to the siphon tube fitting.
Leaking Hose end fitting connecting to the elbow.
Leaking hose
Leaking hose fitting to the selector valve.
Leaking selector valve.
 
So in order to get air in the line it would have to be the supply line correct?
I colored up the generator fuel supply system from the parts manual. One thing interesting - it seems both the port and starboard fuel supply tank interfaces are installed on the aft generator fitting on the tank rather than the forward fitting as shown in this diagram. But, regardless the port works just fine so I'm assuming either the diagram is wrong or my visual on the boat is wrong.....
Also, it doesn't show the siphon tube as a separate part on the tanks which could make things much worse if the issue is the siphon tube.
Another interesting
GenFuelSystem.jpg
 
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1) At ANCHOR do you guys keep both display’s ON throughout the weekend?
- I like to keep a display ON so the anchor alarm can warn us.
- Ideally, I would like to turn ONE display off while on the hook and then even alternate displays from one trip to the next to balance the run time of the two displays.

As an alternative to the MFD, we use the anchor alarm feature of Aqua Maps on a iPad. It's a much more portable option. You could leave it on a table in the Salon. Or to your state room for overnighters.
 
Vacuflush work - again

I'm in the process of rebuilding the Vacuflush vacuum pumps, bellows and duckbills. It's been five years since I last did that maintenance so they are due. I noticed some cracking in the hoses between the pumps and the heads so that is now on the list to replace. In our boats those hoses go through the engine room bulkhead; one penetrates into the tunnel under the stateroom hallway and the other through into the storage area under the galley then across and into that tunnel.
Has anyone replaced these hoses? Has anyone replaced with PVC pipe?
The Nordhaven I was looking at was all PVC pipe for the sani' piping. I think PVC would be a better solution but wanted to find out experiences.
 
Our boat had all pvc and the newer flex hoses on when we purchased it the pvc makes sense as they run outboard of the motors with heat and exposure it’s a better idea. I do have a friend who did it to his wasn’t terribly hard he also moved the vacuum generators to on top of the holding tank where he made a custom mount for both this was the “poop” is drawn all the way back to the tank and not sitting in the pipes seems to have worked well.
 
Our boat had all pvc and the newer flex hoses on when we purchased it the pvc makes sense as they run outboard of the motors with heat and exposure it’s a better idea. I do have a friend who did it to his wasn’t terribly hard he also moved the vacuum generators to on top of the holding tank where he made a custom mount for both this was the “poop” is drawn all the way back to the tank and not sitting in the pipes seems to have worked well.
Oh yea - the hoses between the VG's and holding tank..... Joy.
 
I replaced a faulty air horn compressor and it is functioning normal. Powers up and reaches pressure. I’m not familiar with this system at all. Found a breaker under helm and it’s not tripped but still no horn. What and where is the electronic portion of this system or is there even such a creature.
 
I replaced a faulty air horn compressor and it is functioning normal. Powers up and reaches pressure. I’m not familiar with this system at all. Found a breaker under helm and it’s not tripped but still no horn. What and where is the electronic portion of this system or is there even such a creature.
There is an electric solenoid air valve that the horn button operates in the overhead on the hardtop. When you press the horn button this valve opens and let’s the compressed air to the trumpets. Maybe the valve is not working.
 
I replaced a faulty air horn compressor and it is functioning normal. Powers up and reaches pressure. I’m not familiar with this system at all. Found a breaker under helm and it’s not tripped but still no horn. What and where is the electronic portion of this system or is there even such a creature.
Steve - its not fun, but first climb on the roof and put your hand over the horn, have your wife hit the switch, and see if air is coming out. I had one of mine go out and air was still coming out of it - it needed a new copper diaphram...that may not be your problem as both are out...This guy is a great help:

Kahlenberg horns
Ph: 920-793-4507, Ext. 104
Steve Koch Ext 104
Sales Manager
 
Thanks for your responses. Fortunately a wire came off the switch. I had shop install new transducer over the winter and two other items were unplugged since but all is good now. The compressor still needed replaced it wouldn’t shut off. I’m sure I could have thrown parts at it but this was much easier. Thanks again. Never did find solenoid
 
Having an issue with my Sub Zero freezer 249FFI in the galley. It was cooling to about 24 degrees and thought it was the thermostat. I ordered one and went to install it. When I dropped the cover down, the coils were all frozen up. Google tells me that it is probably the defrost heating element or the timer for the heating element. This is above my pay grade. I called a sub zero tech company and he says it is probably one of those. I told him to order both and try them. He is about 2 weeks out, and I don't want to delay things if he has to order parts. He did say they have a new policy on marine units that they have to be removed from under the counter in case they have to fix things that are in the back. The guy on the phone did not know if the defrost times was inside the unit or on the back for this model. I don't have a problem removing it, but I'm pretty sure its a flat back model and there isn't anything on the back. Can anyone confirm that?

Thanks,
Tim
 
Tim,

When we had ours serviced, it came out easily - you will see the 3 screws per side inside the freezer - we had to have the compressor replaced (he did the timer as well), sorry I don't recall where the time was. But the unit is easy to get out...
 
I realize that it is easy to take it. I just don't want to have to do it, if it doesn't need to be done.

Tim
 

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