5.0 EFI Will Not Start – Mercury Diagnosed as Bad ECM?

tmo_7

Member
Oct 23, 2012
35
Alabama
Boat Info
2000 210 Sundeck
Engines
5.0L EFI with Alpha
I will try to make this as concise as possible. I need help to recover just a bit of a lost boating season!

Problem: Engine will not start

Boat Information: 2000 Sea Ray 210SD, 5.0 EFI
HID: SERV2478I900 Motor: OL626623

For the two years I have owned this boat, I have had absolutely no trouble. We have loved every minute with it.

To start this season in June, I ran the engine in the driveway with no problems on several occasions. I ran on the lake on trip #1 in June all day with no problems, until I turned it off after a five-mile cruise at constant speed. I did not idle to cool down. We sat for 10 minutes with the motor off. Then it would not start. I tried varying throttle, and eventually it started and sputtered for a while. It cleared up enough to idle 200 yards to the marina. The next day, I ran the motor on several occasions on a hose at home, and had no problems. I convinced myself it was a problem with vapor lock (which I could manage) or a faulty IAC (which I would expect to cause some intermittent problems when hot, I could manage with throttle, and I can easily replace the part).

I ran the engine in the driveway with no problems to prepare for a trip. The next week in June, we took the boat on a big camping trip with some other families. No matter what I tried, the boat would not start. There was no hint of a spark / ignition. We ended up camping for 4 days without aboat.

Troubleshooting: I moved throttle to half/full throttle and tried to start, still just cranks. I checked the kill switch, neutral switch, and fuses. I checked the distributor and fuel supply and pressure. I verified that the fuel system was priming with key-on, and the injectors were spraying fuel when I turned the ignition key and turned over the motor. I cleaned some corrosion off the distributor cap. The motor would never start. I decided to get troubleshooting done 'quickly' by a Mercruiser mechanic.

Technician comments, authorized Mercruiser shop (many costly diagnostic labor hours):
Diagnosed engine. Removed spark plugs to find worn plugs, Replaced plugs. Checked fuel pressure. Fuel pressure at 30 psi. Checked basetiming and set to correct setting. Engine timing will not set. Ran multiple tests. Contacted Mercruiser for assistance. Was told to check harmonic balancer for wear. Balancer checked ok. Was advised to check computer for proper operation. Found computer not operating properly.

Recommendation by Mercruiser & Mechanic: Replace engine computer ECM with updated version, conversion kit with new ECM and new wiring harness. P/N 87-2799A01C, $2,589 for parts. Add labor and tax = $3,400. (This will also add several hundred dollars in labor to change the wiring harness)

The shop told me they set timing and could run the motor perfectly. Then after they turn if off for 10 minutes, it would not start.
They told me they checked the distributor, rotor, ignition module, optical sensor, plugs, cables, fuel pump, fuel delivery - all checked okay.

I sent my ECM to OBD Diagnostics, Inc. in California. The ECM is Delphi 16236999, SN866999KA00021015, MEFI3. Bob bench tested the ECM, and stated that "there is nothing wrong with the ECM". Bob's comments: "D074, 2252 starts, 299 hours, no logged codes, good on harness w/ injectors, all sensors good, reflash to DOBC". He stated that he would not expect this ECM to be the problem. He has not seen this issue with a controller. Bob expects the problem may be in the distributor. He suggested connecting A-B, set timing, check with light,use diagnostics tool to see if they agree with each other.

Now that OBD Diagnostics has reflashed the ECM, the mechanic wants to either replace the module with the $2,500 Merc conversion kit + labor, or send me on my way (does not want liability of installing the old ECM now). He does not feel comfortable with the testing setup conducted by OBD Diagnostics.

I will pay for the diagnostics and 8 spark plugs and pick up the boat today.
I need to decide whether to proceed with one of the following:
1) Install the reflashed ECM and continue troubleshooting (I doubt the reflash will have any effect). I will have to find a different mechanic, as I do not have the tools or time to properly troubleshoot this problem.
2) Purchase and try a new (original) ECM from OBD Diagnostics for $1,500. This is a 1:1 swap, with no wiring changes required. This may not fix anything, and I do not know if OBD would let me return it.
3) Other?

The one option I will not consider is to spend another $3,400 on a new Merc ECM kit with labor, which may not fix anything.

I am grasping for any help that could possibly get me back on the water quickly.

Thanks in advance,

Tim
 
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I had similiar problems and the issue was crank case sensor?

Not sure if your issue but might be worth a test or swap of this part.
 
Boats accidently catch fire and sink relatively often during the summer months
 
for under $300 you can trash the Mercruiser Thunderbolt ignition system and replace it with a Delco EST ignition system.....

you may want to read this post of my 'adventure' with the TBV ignition system....

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/62806-TBV-ignition-electronics-troubleshooting

cliff

Thank you, Cliff. I had missed your posts from 2013. It's quite a lot of helpful information and new items to digest. I am beginning to discuss these issues / tests with my new mechanic. If we cannot find the problem and solution quickly, I may be spending the winter troubleshooting myself. I am glad to know that the Delco EST ignition system is a compatible and easy swap. Nice job.
 
Last edited:
I had similiar problems and the issue was crank case sensor?

Not sure if your issue but might be worth a test or swap of this part.

Thanks, tcason. I will check the crank position sensor.
 
Last edited:
I feel your pain. My mefi3 ecm is doa. Running on a loaner, but need to get one and have it programmed. Been trying to find a deal on ebay, but they are few and far between. I presume you are carb'd and not efi?
 
When you turn the key, do you get the beep? If no beep, I would check and or replace your kill switch. Been there done that. Drove me crazy, such a easy fix.
 
Thanks, mperlst216. I always got the beep. Check my post from today for resolution (ignition system). We're running great now.

Thanks,
 
I feel your pain. My mefi3 ecm is doa. Running on a loaner, but need to get one and have it programmed. Been trying to find a deal on ebay, but they are few and far between. I presume you are carb'd and not efi?

Check my posting for resolution (repaired ignition system).
For a 'new' MEFI3 ECM, Contact Ken and Bob at OBD Diagnostics, Inc. in Redondo Beach, CA, http://mefiburn.com/mefiecms.asp He bought out dealerships, and has some NOS and used ECMs available at around $1,100 to $1,500. They are very helpful, and quick!
 
RESOLUTION: 5.0 EFI not starting: The motor starts and run great!

After my bad experience with an "Authorized Mercruiser Premier Service Center", I took the boat to a highly-regarded independent shop who specializes in EFI and go-fast boats. They had me 100% repaired and back on the water in one day. If anyone needs an excellent shop around central Alabama, please contact Steve Northington at Cathouse Performance Marine LLC, www.cathousemarine.com.

Since I was not present during the work, I will likely miss some details. In summary, there were no problems with the ECM or distributor. He verified this by testing the ECM using software Diacom Marine 2.4.7, and verified by swapping the ECM. He also swapped the distributor to verify no issues there. No sparks or advancement with new ECM and distributor. Steve and his mechanic essentially threw away the information from the previous mechanic, and started with the basics of troubleshooting 101. He found a burned ignition relay, and replaced it with another relay. That relay burned, so he thought he might have a faulty replacement part. He installed yet another relay, which burned. He then found the ignition module to be bad, and replaced it. He then found the ignition coil to be hot, and the wire and rubber shroud to be hot/melted. He replaced the coil and coil wire. I was charged 9.5 hours + parts, which was several thousand less than the (false) recommendation to replace the ECM with a new Mercury conversion kit. I verified my ECM and motor performance using Diacom software by observing inputs/outputs before and after the repairs.

The engine runs better than ever, and we've already put 8 hours on the lake last weekend. I ran it hard, in all conditions, and it has not given a hint of trouble. It appears the faulty coil was the root cause, possibly causing incorrect voltage. The key for me is that when an "Authorized Mercruiser Premier Service Center" and "Mercury" tells you the only fix is to replace the ECM, run the other way. I also believe "Authorized Mercruiser Premier Service Center" does not mean very much. I understand there is some training and a hefty annual maintenance fee required, but little more than that. The OEM service support appears useless. Note I was told that the three problematic components were "already checked" by the other shop...this was obviously not true.

Thanks for all the helpful comments.
 
You have to separate the marketing the service center uses to get customers from what is important. Anyone can be a Mercruiser Authorized Service Center by just becoming a dealer and, if you can spell the words you can call your self a "premier" shop. The important thing is to go in the shop or the office and look at the wall or wherever they hang the certificates and see how many mechanbics are truly Mercruiser certified and how many have attained Master Technician status. The shop I recommended to you has 3 Master Techs. I've known them all for several years and if you can pass the Merc Master Tech test, then you know your $&%# and you are a heck of a lot more than a parts changer.

Anyway....glad you got the boat going.
 

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