480 DB Owners Club

Any thoughts on covering the engine room air vents during winter storage ? I'm storing in the water in a covered shed and trying to decide what's best, to keep air circulation in the engine room or keep the cold air out.
 
If the engine is winterized with antifreeze, there's no advantage to blocking the vents. However, if you don't use antifreeze and use a heater to keep things from freezing, then yes, blocking the vents will retain some heat.
 
Keep in mind that the vent center insert is kept in-place with christmas tree fasteners and glue, so don't apply too much pressure to the edges. (nor should you put a fender against it when 25 mph winds are pushing you against the dock. ahem)
 
Keith, There are 5 zincs per engine and probably 2 on your Genny in the heat exchanger. (different size then mains)
The 3196: 3 in the heat exchanger. One in the fuel cooler on the raw water supply side. (not on on the side between the cooler and the RW impeller. and one in the trans cooler. (possibly 2 if you don't have drip-less shafts) Access is limited to your size. in reference to the outboard coolers respectively. I'm 210 lbs. at 5'10". Not fun but doable.

I winterize my Gen and Mains with corrosion inhibitor antifreeze ( IE: Banfrost 2000) and have block heaters set at 35 deg.on/45 deg. off. I still cover my vents the same a Quality time does unless shrink wrapped. Overkill maybe but it's piece of mind. I also drain my mufflers on the mains.
Going to do my aftercoolers (test) and replace zincs this winter since the sale of boat fell through. So since it's still on land for the winter, I had it wrapped. Roller Coaster, funny you mentioned the vents. Mine were refastened with screws prior to me owning it. Guarantee fenders were the culprit.
 
Keith, There are 5 zincs per engine and probably 2 on your Genny in the heat exchanger. (different size then mains)
The 3196: 3 in the heat exchanger. One in the fuel cooler on the raw water supply side. (not on on the side between the cooler and the RW impeller. and one in the trans cooler. (possibly 2 if you don't have drip-less shafts) Access is limited to your size. in reference to the outboard coolers respectively. I'm 210 lbs. at 5'10". Not fun but doable.

I winterize my Gen and Mains with corrosion inhibitor antifreeze ( IE: Banfrost 2000) and have block heaters set at 35 deg.on/45 deg. off. I still cover my vents the same a Quality time does unless shrink wrapped. Overkill maybe but it's piece of mind. I also drain my mufflers on the mains.
Going to do my aftercoolers (test) and replace zincs this winter since the sale of boat fell through. So since it's still on land for the winter, I had it wrapped. Roller Coaster, funny you mentioned the vents. Mine were refastened with screws prior to me owning it. Guarantee fenders were the culprit.

Thanks for the info. I'm glad I asked since I was thinking 2 or 3 per engine and trans. My boat is already winterized for the season but if there is a nice few days around Xmas, I will be at the boat detailing the engine room. I need to check those vents. I stuffed pipe insulation and never thought about the clips or screws holding the covers on. I would hate to lose one.....
 
I added ballvalves to the mufflers (even though they do have a drain screw) and run a short section of hose to a bucket. Much less mess this way.

I’m sure the antifreeze in them is diluted since they hold about 8 gallons plus whatever water got pushed out of the engine.
 
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I also drain my mufflers.
All good advice, much appreciated. I was also considering a xetreme marine heating unit for the bildge, any thoughts? The winters in NJ have been a bit harsh these past couple of years.
 
I added ballvalves to the mufflers (even though they do have a drain screw) and run a short section of hose to a bucket. Much less mess this way

I’m sure the antifreeze in them is diluted since they hold about 8 gallons plus whatever water got pushed out of the engine.
How many gallons of anti freeze are you using per engine?
 
All good advice, much appreciated. I was also considering a xetreme marine heating unit for the bildge, any thoughts? The winters in NJ have been a bit harsh these past couple of years.
A lot of diesel guys use pan heaters to keep condensation down in the motors - the added benefit is all that cast iron stays warm and radiently heats the bilge too
 
All good advice, much appreciated. I was also considering a xetreme marine heating unit for the bildge, any thoughts? The winters in NJ have been a bit harsh these past couple of years.

I would definitely use one but we're not allowed any external heat sources at my marina. We had a bad fire back in the 90's due to an unattended space heater.
 
I added ballvalves to the mufflers (even though they do have a drain screw) and run a short section of hose to a bucket. Much less mess this way.

I’m sure the antifreeze in them is diluted since they hold about 8 gallons plus whatever water got pushed out of the engine.
Quality Time- Where did you put the ballvalves? Replace them at the drain plug? I was looking to do the same because of the mess when draining into the bilge. Dave
 
Very clever. I would be too nervous to drill into the muffler. Was trying to find ball valve small enough to replace the drain plug, but don't think I will find anything that small. Thanks for the reply.
 
I have a light switch labeled "bridge" on the port hard top arch. It doesn't do anything. The overhead recessed lights are all controlled by the helm dimmer switch labeled "spoiler" and the small lights near the deck around the settee are controlled by the helm switch labeled "bridge." There are no lights on the bridge (or anywhere else) that don't work.

I've attached a photo. Does anyone know what this switch is supposed to do? Thanks!
 

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