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Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by rwvw415, Jul 29, 2017.
mine def locks
Mine seemed to work also, but if you gave it a good shake you could slide the door open. I have the more heavy duty looking latch, and will try to stop and take a pic today as I can't find one in my files. I had to modify it quite a bit to make it work correctly. The problem was is wasn't going in far enough catch correctly.
Hello to everyone:
Read this thread from the start, interesting data.
Am familiar what to look for during a boat purchase.
Going to look at some 48DA's. Are there any items/areas pertaining to
the 48DA I should pay additional attention?
Also wondering if anyone would have a 48DA standard/option list in pdf form.
Thanks in advance
No, my latch will not lock. That is to say, the key will turn the latch but it doesn't engage the hook enough to stay secure. Attached is a pic of the hook. Same as yours...with the same problem.
Mine had a small standoff from the factory that I assume was made from tan starboard that was too short as the catch wouldn't secure in the latch completely, and if I tugged up/down on the door it would open. The catch also kept coming loose after only a few uses due to being misaligned. The fix for mine was to make a longer, and more sturdy catch standoff from aluminum that I could get the correct compound angle on the back of by using a belt sander. Once I found the correct angle then I screwed, and epoxied it in place.
This is the best pic I could find as I wasn't able to make it to the boat today. I'll try to post a better pic when I can get to the boat.
Yep that looks like the solution. I ordered some aluminum bar stock off Amazon. I am going to cut it to length and drill and tap it to make a spacer like that. I wish I still had my Sherline Mill this would be so easy. Oh well have to work with drill press and a chop saw but I will get it right.
Same style of latch on my 48 as well. I never had any problems with it locking and staying locked.
I also had to Dremel the inside of my aluminum door frame a bit as well. From the looks of all the other projects you've done though, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
Welcome to the Club, hope you find your boat. Not sure what year you are looking for but most of these suffer the most from deferred maintenance issues from the PO's. The best advise I can give you is get an experienced Sea Ray surveyor and a good Cummins mechanic to inspect what you expect. These are great boats and we love them. As far as an options list, sorry never seen one. Once you look at a few you will know what you like. Where are you located? What years are you looking at to fit into your budget.
Just to clarify, when you ordered it and put in your dimensions, did you just input 16" in the Height box and 18" in the width box in the on-line form? Your's looks like it fit's great.
Take a look at the Sea Ray website under owners https://www.searay.com/us/en/owners.html
then recent models and you will fine the exact specs on the model and a brochure that shows the standard items and all the options. See the brochure below on a 2007 48 Sundancer
I do think the mod looks great, but i find myself asking "do you find yourselves going to this box that often?"
So far, I have only opened it up once, and that was to see what was inside.
This time of year Sarasota, then 6 months NW Indiana, think Michigan City/New Buffalo.
Years interested? 06-07-08-09. V-drive boats, not interested in zeus pods.
Generally my thinking has been - a great lakes boat value is 10-15% higher for a equivalent boat in FLA. I spent about 40 years in aviation. Giving me a good idea what to look at. (hold a FAA A&P license). In about a 90 minute drive, there's 4-5 boats on this side of the state. I'll look soon, than decide if I want to go to snow country.
Thanks for the pdf link.
If anyone is interested in a HYD swim platform cost.
Yesterday TNT quoted $31,450 installed in Sarasota.
not sure this helps but my Factory installed Swim Platform came from GHS
When I bought my boat it did not have a hydraulic swim platform. I had it added by a company called SeaLift before I took the boat home from Boca area to LongIsland. They were great I chose SeaLift because it is a single piston design. Very simple with only 2 hydraulic hoses. My 44 had a GHS so I’m familiar with both. Sealift always raises evenly because the mechanism keeps it straight unlike
my previous lift. I also opted for there custom collapsible dingy chocks which I love. I dealt with Steve. Great guy.
Good point! My anchor windlass pops the breaker every now and then but I'd say it's happened about 4 times in 2 years.
Saw a bunch of posts ago you were considering the SV20 LED Retrofit for your underwater lights and then looked at another option. May I ask which way you finally went and how happy you are with the decision?
Also, can't take credit regarding the panel observation. Came up in a conversation with @Aml327