48 DA Owners Club

I am at a frickin loss. Beyond irritated with this sanitation hose job I was able to get the new hose started from the Bildge side to the mid berth toilet so we started pulling and pushing. Got it about 3-4feet while lubing it up Along way and then just dead stopped, can’t pull it in either direction. Absolute nightmare and not quite sure where to go from here. Poured a thing of vegetable oil down a hose into the pvc from the mid berth side to try to help lube it more but didn’t seem to help. We called it a day as we both were beyond frustrated
 
I am at a frickin loss. Beyond irritated with this sanitation hose job I was able to get the new hose started from the Bildge side to the mid berth toilet so we started pulling and pushing. Got it about 3-4feet while lubing it up Along way and then just dead stopped, can’t pull it in either direction. Absolute nightmare and not quite sure where to go from here. Poured a thing of vegetable oil down a hose into the pvc from the mid berth side to try to help lube it more but didn’t seem to help. We called it a day as we both were beyond frustrated
That sucks... Hope you find a solution and look forward to hearing what it is as I have to tackle this next year. I was thinking to try and do this with hard line and add fittings to the existing hard line to extend it and use flex hose to attach to it for short runs. Just like @ttmott did on his boat.
 
I am at a frickin loss. Beyond irritated with this sanitation hose job I was able to get the new hose started from the Bildge side to the mid berth toilet so we started pulling and pushing. Got it about 3-4feet while lubing it up Along way and then just dead stopped, can’t pull it in either direction. Absolute nightmare and not quite sure where to go from here. Poured a thing of vegetable oil down a hose into the pvc from the mid berth side to try to help lube it more but didn’t seem to help. We called it a day as we both were beyond frustrated
Have a marine sanitation company do it for you. Why stress and get frustrated over it? It's an intensive labor job.
 
Have a marine sanitation company do it for you. Why stress and get frustrated over it? It's an intensive labor job.


It’s actually a fairly simple task just a lot of labor and tight quarters however the problem I’m running into was the trident hose I bought to replace the factory trident hose is just a smidge bigger in OD (.2-.3 one hundredths) and that wasn’t listed anywhere but the trident site lists it as the new replacement hose for the old part number. we got the hose to start and it went a few feet with fairly minimal tugging and now it’s stuck. We been trying for 2 days to get it out of the pvc. Anyone that’s done this have any suggestions to try? There’s a wood dowel with a hole through it and a rope going in it and it’s coming out of the mid berth head that we were using to pull it. It Won’t budge at all. We cut the hose off on the bildge side and left 8inches sticking out to grip to try and spin it and it won’t even spin with Big channel locks on it. It’s like reaaaaly stuck in there. Fml ‍♂️
 
It’s actually a fairly simple task just a lot of labor and tight quarters however the problem I’m running into was the trident hose I bought to replace the factory trident hose is just a smidge bigger in OD (.2-.3 one hundredths) and that wasn’t listed anywhere but the trident site lists it as the new replacement hose for the old part number. we got the hose to start and it went a few feet with fairly minimal tugging and now it’s stuck. We been trying for 2 days to get it out of the pvc. Anyone that’s done this have any suggestions to try? There’s a wood dowel with a hole through it and a rope going in it and it’s coming out of the mid berth head that we were using to pull it. It Won’t budge at all. We cut the hose off on the bildge side and left 8inches sticking out to grip to try and spin it and it won’t even spin with Big channel locks on it. It’s like reaaaaly stuck in there. Fml ‍♂️
Cap the new pipe with a plug tightly. Install a plug in the pvc from the head size with a air fitting and use compressed air to push it out. That’s what I would do.
 
If i remember correctly, once I removed the center hinge the freezer door pulled down and the fridge door pulled up. The rest was self explanatory. Just swap the parts to the other side.

Thanks TNT. I removed the one screw I saw on the hinge but it didn't come out. Maybe there are two? I'll have to give it a closer look this weekend.
 
Gentlemen,
Need your infinite wisdom. 2008 Sea Ray 48 Dancer that was dewinterized. Everything was fine in October. Now, the vesselview and my tachs on the starboard side are not working. Engine runs fine. But, I do not have any readings on that side(gas, steering wheel, etc). Messed around with the wiring harness and got everything to read. But, then when I took the boat out tachs on the port and starboard were spiking(the engine was not) and then the starboard tachs and vesselview went dead again. Boat ran perfectly fine but I have no readings. Luckily I have a full tanks of gas. Lol.

Marine Max believes I need to put 2 diod harnesses on both engines to fix the problem. But, that does not make sense to me.

I tried jiggling the wiring harness like last time and now I am unable to get it to read again.

Marine Max said the engines run through the smartcraft vesselview and then to the tachs. Which makes sense. I know the issue is from the engine to the vesselview. But the port is perfectly fine and not an issue.

Oh, and sorry if I posted onto this thread. My wife and I both searched all over on how to start a new thread and it alluded us.

Can someone help make my Memorial Day boating stress free? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I am at a frickin loss. Beyond irritated with this sanitation hose job I was able to get the new hose started from the Bildge side to the mid berth toilet so we started pulling and pushing. Got it about 3-4feet while lubing it up Along way and then just dead stopped, can’t pull it in either direction. Absolute nightmare and not quite sure where to go from here. Poured a thing of vegetable oil down a hose into the pvc from the mid berth side to try to help lube it more but didn’t seem to help. We called it a day as we both were beyond frustrated
 
IMG_2029.jpeg
It’s actually a fairly simple task just a lot of labor and tight quarters however the problem I’m running into was the trident hose I bought to replace the factory trident hose is just a smidge bigger in OD (.2-.3 one hundredths) and that wasn’t listed anywhere but the trident site lists it as the new replacement hose for the old part number. we got the hose to start and it went a few feet with fairly minimal tugging and now it’s stuck. We been trying for 2 days to get it out of the pvc. Anyone that’s done this have any suggestions to try? There’s a wood dowel with a hole through it and a rope going in it and it’s coming out of the mid berth head that we were using to pull it. It Won’t budge at all. We cut the hose off on the bildge side and left 8inches sticking out to grip to try and spin it and it won’t even spin with Big channel locks on it. It’s like reaaaaly stuck in there. Fml ‍♂️
 
Gentlemen,
Need your infinite wisdom. 2008 Sea Ray 48 Dancer that was dewinterized. Everything was fine in October. Now, the vesselview and my tachs on the starboard side are not working. Engine runs fine. But, I do not have any readings on that side(gas, steering wheel, etc). Messed around with the wiring harness and got everything to read. But, then when I took the boat out tachs on the port and starboard were spiking(the engine was not) and then the starboard tachs and vesselview went dead again. Boat ran perfectly fine but I have no readings. Luckily I have a full tanks of gas. Lol.

Marine Max believes I need to put 2 diod harnesses on both engines to fix the problem. But, that does not make sense to me.

I tried jiggling the wiring harness like last time and now I am unable to get it to read again.

Marine Max said the engines run through the smartcraft vesselview and then to the tachs. Which makes sense. I know the issue is from the engine to the vesselview. But the port is perfectly fine and not an issue.

Oh, and sorry if I posted onto this thread. My wife and I both searched all over on how to start a new thread and it alluded us.

Can someone help make my Memorial Day boating stress free? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
There should be two yellow cables that run from the engines to the helm. One with red tape (port) and one with green tape (starboard) on the ends under the dash. Those two cables should terminate into a couple of Smartcraft Junction Boxes. There should be a terminating resistor (yellow capped Smartcraft blank) connector in each of those junction boxes. Also off those two J-boxes should be a harness that goes to the engine start key switcsh and helm switches.
Then there should be a "wake" harness that goes between the two J-boxes which is a single wire in that harness. Finally, there is the instrumentation harness (vessel view) that connects to both J-boxes and routes to the Vessel View. Also off that harness is the connectors for the Port and Starboard gauges. The Vessel View drives the gauges; the gauges will not operate without the Vessel View.
So, the fact the engines start means the cabling to the engines is probably not the issue and the J-boxes are not the issue. So, that leaves the Smartcraft data part of all that wiring or a bonefied issue with the Vessel View device. At this juncture, I would disconnect and inspect the harness' going into the Vessel View. That will also remove the power to the VV system which will reboot it. Other than that is may be your VV is going south....
 
There should be two yellow cables that run from the engines to the helm. One with red tape (port) and one with green tape (starboard) on the ends under the dash. Those two cables should terminate into a couple of Smartcraft Junction Boxes. There should be a terminating resistor (yellow capped Smartcraft blank) connector in each of those junction boxes. Also off those two J-boxes should be a harness that goes to the engine start key switcsh and helm switches.
Then there should be a "wake" harness that goes between the two J-boxes which is a single wire in that harness. Finally, there is the instrumentation harness (vessel view) that connects to both J-boxes and routes to the Vessel View. Also off that harness is the connectors for the Port and Starboard gauges. The Vessel View drives the gauges; the gauges will not operate without the Vessel View.
So, the fact the engines start means the cabling to the engines is probably not the issue and the J-boxes are not the issue. So, that leaves the Smartcraft data part of all that wiring or a bonefied issue with the Vessel View device. At this juncture, I would disconnect and inspect the harness' going into the Vessel View. That will also remove the power to the VV system which will reboot it. Other than that is may be your VV is going south....
I had a similar issue with my Stbd gauges this spring and as @ttmott suggests it was the Smartcraft harness. My harness was only 1 year old but after 2 hours of troubleshooting my mechanics found a wire that was not properly crimped into the connector on the harness.
 
Gentlemen,
Need your infinite wisdom. 2008 Sea Ray 48 Dancer that was dewinterized. Everything was fine in October. Now, the vesselview and my tachs on the starboard side are not working. Engine runs fine. But, I do not have any readings on that side(gas, steering wheel, etc). Messed around with the wiring harness and got everything to read. But, then when I took the boat out tachs on the port and starboard were spiking(the engine was not) and then the starboard tachs and vesselview went dead again. Boat ran perfectly fine but I have no readings. Luckily I have a full tanks of gas. Lol.

Marine Max believes I need to put 2 diod harnesses on both engines to fix the problem. But, that does not make sense to me.

I tried jiggling the wiring harness like last time and now I am unable to get it to read again.

Marine Max said the engines run through the smartcraft vesselview and then to the tachs. Which makes sense. I know the issue is from the engine to the vesselview. But the port is perfectly fine and not an issue.

Oh, and sorry if I posted onto this thread. My wife and I both searched all over on how to start a new thread and it alluded us.

Can someone help make my Memorial Day boating stress free? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
After my VV working intermittently, with the gauges cutting out when the vesselview did, I went with a new vesselview 703 and all cleared up. There is some additional wiring required but thr guys here and mercury customer service were great in identifying the cabling and the how-to. It was really plug and play.
 
After my VV working intermittently, with the gauges cutting out when the vesselview did, I went with a new vesselview 703 and all cleared up. There is some additional wiring required but thr guys here and mercury customer service were great in identifying the cabling and the how-to. It was really plug and play.

Agreed. Attached diagram showing the needed cables from the OEM Diesel View to Vessel 703.

upload_2023-5-28_3-30-2.png
 
Agreed. Attached diagram showing the needed cables from the OEM Diesel View to Vessel 703.

View attachment 145139
Thank you everyone! Once I disconnected the smartcraft harness on the starboard, and reconnected it, it started working. Now, chances are it is going to happen again. But, for now, it is back to normal.

Since noone has heard of these diod harnesses Marine Max states it needs I would suspect I am going to have to upgrade the system very soon. Shaps, thank you for the recommendation on the new VV.
 
Thank you everyone! Once I disconnected the smartcraft harness on the starboard, and reconnected it, it started working. Now, chances are it is going to happen again. But, for now, it is back to normal.

Since noone has heard of these diod harnesses Marine Max states it needs I would suspect I am going to have to upgrade the system very soon. Shaps, thank you for the recommendation on the new VV.
The keyswitch / ignition wiring for multiple engine applications that starts up the VV and gauges have diodes (I think this has been eliminated in the later revisions of the VV but haven't verified). The purpose of the diodes are to prevent back-feeding electrical current to the other engine system. The second purpose is to allow the VV to come on line with either engine ign switch. Has nothing to do with the symptoms you were experiencing BTW.
 
I wanted to share this idea with you all, I didn't want to drill holes on my platform so I came up with this mount for my Magma grill bracket that will slide in the track of the swimm platform....
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Does anyone have a list of the zinc sizes or numbers needed for a shaft drive 48 dancer? Going to have a diver come replace mine next week. Thanks
 
Thank you! do you know the others for the trim tabs and bow thruster/ other underwater anodes? Thanks!
 

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