460 DA Owners Thread

James,
Thanks for this fantastic write-up. One clarification, you say that the generator feeds are only to 3/4 fuel level for safety. Did you mean to say that they are only to the 1/4 tank fuel level? If so, then this may be the solution to my issue that I've been experiencing recently. My gennie has been periodically dying while underway. My boating has been limited due to injuries suffered from an auto accident and so I've not been putting $$$ fuel in the tanks, only $.
:)
Yes, sorry and I meant to say that the tank can only be drawn 3/4's down to the 1/4 mark. It makes sense when you think about it. Run your genny until it starves for fuel and you still have a 1/4 tank left to get underway and find fuel.
Thank you for correcting that. Hope your recovery continues.
 
Yes, sorry and I meant to say that the tank can only be drawn 3/4's down to the 1/4 mark. It makes sense when you think about it. Run your genny until it starves for fuel and you still have a 1/4 tank left to get underway and find fuel.
Thank you for correcting that. Hope your recovery continues.
Perfect, that is what I thought! I put on 130 gal of diesel on Saturday and was hoping this was the reason why my generator would not start. Unfortunately, this didn't solve the intermittent starting problem I'm having with my gennie.
The gennie doesn't even turn over. The next step will be to make sure the battery hasn't gone kaput.
 
Roller wheels:
I need to replace the roller wheels upper and lower for the cabin door.

I had the part numbers but missed placed them .

Do any of you have the part numbers and where best to order them?

Thank you in advance.
Jim
 
Jim

Flounder pounder is your source. For the trucks. You need 4 each of the 25mm type a and 23mm type a. You will probably need some gray fuzzy door seal and a sliding door hardware kit as well.

Figure a whole day for this job because about 16 things will go wrong. It’s time consuming really because of the access. I had to drill a few of the blind nuts so a left hand drill bit is handy. Also if you or your wife have small hands that’s a big benefit as well.

I sure love smoothness of the new door but I do wish I had replaced the salon refrigerator because I don’t want to do it again.
 
Hello Everyone!
I'm at the stage where I need to replace my salon refrigerator. Can anyone share their experiences and replacement refrigerator models? TIA!
Stuart
 
Hello Everyone!
I'm at the stage where I need to replace my salon refrigerator. Can anyone share their experiences and replacement refrigerator models? TIA!
Stuart


I did ours last fall.
Do yourself a favor and order the replacement parts for all the cabin door wheels as you have to take the door out to get to do the job.
See my post above I didnt have them at the time of replacing the fridge and now I need to go back and do it.

Replacing the fridge is a very straight forward job. Plan half a day and one six pack.

1> Cabin door removable. Start above the door with removing the access panel on top of the dash. from there work your way down to the bottom track. Top and bottom you will see the screws you need to take out to get the door out. When replacing the door you will need someone on the inside of the door to help with the bottom nuts and track.. smaller the hands the better.

2> Take the cabinet doors off of the fridge area. Next take all screws out around the fridge flange. Pull fridge out unplug the 110 plug and disconnect the 12v. I took the fridge doors off to make it easer to pull up out of the cabin.

3> Take new fridge and reverse the process of taking the old one out.
On the new one I left the doors on and just taped them shut.

4> Reinstall the cabin door. This will take longer than doing the fridge.

I also got from home depot some heavy duty paper.. its on the paint aisle.. I taped it around the opening to the cabin that way you wont run the risk of tearing any of the cabin leather. Also tape all the sharp corners of the old and new fridge.

I would also recommend when you have the new fridge in hand to plug it in at home to insure that all works well before install.

I replaced with the recommended NorCold model that replaces the stock fridge. I found the best price from west marine.

If you search this job on here you will find that others have gone to different brands than Norcold as they feel those brands work better.

It is a good fall project when your in the slip and the weather is not so good to be out on the water.
 
Jim

Flounder pounder is your source. For the trucks. You need 4 each of the 25mm type a and 23mm type a. You will probably need some gray fuzzy door seal and a sliding door hardware kit as well.

Figure a whole day for this job because about 16 things will go wrong. It’s time consuming really because of the access. I had to drill a few of the blind nuts so a left hand drill bit is handy. Also if you or your wife have small hands that’s a big benefit as well.

I sure love smoothness of the new door but I do wish I had replaced the salon refrigerator because I don’t want to do it again.


Thank you.
 
While you have the fridge out, replace the 90 degree hose fitting at the end of the common drain manifold with a straight fitting. The hose is from the forward AC and the elbow is a common choke point for growth if you operate in salt water.
 
You might also look at the NovaKool RFU9000 ACDC. It has the same dimensions but has more volume because the "workings" are on the bottom. It is a bottom freezer model so the cabinet doors (1999-2002) need to be reversed and trimmed. If you're handy with cabinets it's an easy job. I believe 2003 and later do not have the cabinet doors so it may not be an issue at all.
We've had the fridge one year+, and it is very quiet but recently had an unexplained defrost. I contacted the company (they are fantastic to deal with) and said there were a few faulty circuit boards and I was unlucky enough to have one. They sent a new one to me immediately n/c. It's a simple replacement and but it was a fluke.
The fridge holds more than the NorCold since it is deeper because the guts are on the bottom. It's also very quiet.
Door removal is straightforward as described above but my hardware was in good shape due to routine silicone spraying.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
 
I also went with the NovaKool 9000..Great fridge!!
Do what the others have suggested and plug it in at home or in your storage building prior to putting it in place on the boat. I made this mistake and of course had the "fluke" fridge that had a Freon leak from the factory. Nothing like having to do the same job twice because I was in a hurry and didn't think I needed to "test" a new fridge.

Totally agree with everything Jaws stated. The fridge is larger and runs quiet.
Good luck!
 
I did ours last fall.
Do yourself a favor and order the replacement parts for all the cabin door wheels as you have to take the door out to get to do the job.
See my post above I didnt have them at the time of replacing the fridge and now I need to go back and do it.

Replacing the fridge is a very straight forward job. Plan half a day and one six pack.

1> Cabin door removable. Start above the door with removing the access panel on top of the dash. from there work your way down to the bottom track. Top and bottom you will see the screws you need to take out to get the door out. When replacing the door you will need someone on the inside of the door to help with the bottom nuts and track.. smaller the hands the better.

2> Take the cabinet doors off of the fridge area. Next take all screws out around the fridge flange. Pull fridge out unplug the 110 plug and disconnect the 12v. I took the fridge doors off to make it easer to pull up out of the cabin.

3> Take new fridge and reverse the process of taking the old one out.
On the new one I left the doors on and just taped them shut.

4> Reinstall the cabin door. This will take longer than doing the fridge.

I also got from home depot some heavy duty paper.. its on the paint aisle.. I taped it around the opening to the cabin that way you wont run the risk of tearing any of the cabin leather. Also tape all the sharp corners of the old and new fridge.

I would also recommend when you have the new fridge in hand to plug it in at home to insure that all works well before install.

I replaced with the recommended NorCold model that replaces the stock fridge. I found the best price from west marine.

If you search this job on here you will find that others have gone to different brands than Norcold as they feel those brands work better.

It is a good fall project when your in the slip and the weather is not so good to be out on the water.
 
Thanks much for all the help on the refrigerator removal and install. I especially appreciate the tips on the cabin rollers. Mine work just fine so I wonder why others are needing replacement? Is it something that wears out eventually?
I will check out the Norcold and the NovaKool 9000. My refrigerator is on the top and I do have the cabinet doors, too. I think this might have been a mid-year change.
 
Thanks much for all the help on the refrigerator removal and install. I especially appreciate the tips on the cabin rollers. Mine work just fine so I wonder why others are needing replacement? Is it something that wears out eventually?
I will check out the Norcold and the NovaKool 9000. My refrigerator is on the top and I do have the cabinet doors, too. I think this might have been a mid-year change.


I would have the lower ones on hand when you do the job. Mine worked just fine until I took the door out and two of the wheels came apart and I lost some of the roller bearings.

On a side note.. Your profile says "Custom Cockpit interior" would love to see some pictures. I am thinking of upgrading mine however looking for some thoughts.
 
Joint Custody- Thanks for the input on the rollers. Do you remember which size are the lowers?
Also, I've had trouble loading photos onto the site since day 1. Shoot me your email and I will email over some photos of the custom cockpit.
Thx,
Stuart
 
I am almost positive the shorter ones are on the bottom.
 
I've got a quick question about the big thru-hulls that drain the bow deck. I've read some of you guys put short pieces of clear tubing in the hull side ones to keep the water from running down the hull, making the draining water loose surface tension and just fall into the water the boat sits in. Can anyone tell me what size diameter I would need? Thanks
 
The 450DA is made with deck drains as well. I have found that the I.D. of the plastic fittings used for the thru hull drains are not consistent in size. I made my deck drain extensions out of a PCV pipe fitting turned in a lathe to the exact diameter needed, then inserted with some silicone sealer on the mating surface. Mine have been in place about 15 years so this method is going to be more permanent than trying to use vinyl tubing.
 
Frank. Sometime can you post a picture of that? I know it’s not convienient but I really like that modification.

Amfor the original poster... I have changed mine to stainless thru hull fittings so I can’t give you an answer for yours.

Lastly. I changed mine to stainless but if I were to do it again I would have had them glasses in or completely made of fiberglass on the top. This would keep the scum from collecting around them and get rid of another potential water ingress point on the deck.
 
All, thought I would ask again to see if anyone has found a better solution on replacing the side vents covers. One of mine cracked while tieing up and I am having no luck on finding a replacement. Wondering if I will have to make a mold somehow. TIA
 

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