460 DA Owners Thread

Hi all,

I have a 2000 460 hard top.

My question is. Do any of you have the wiring schematic for the hard top and the down lights also do you know if searay has a diagram of the open spaces to run wires within the hard top.

I replaced my down lights and cockpit lights with Lumitec-Mirage-white,red,blue,purple flush mount sku#113120.

The cockpit ones where straight forward I replace all four in ten min and they all worked perfect. The hard top down lights where a little more work. As all of you know with a hard top the down lights are 5 inch round and as far as I have searched they dont make a multi color 5" light . So I used the old fixtures and replaced the glass lens with plexiglass with a 2 inch hole cut in them and then the Lumitec lights just drop right in. The look is very clean!

This issue that I have ran into on the hard top down lights is the two rear lights work perfect however the front two flutter at every color. I know this is a voltage issue and I will replace the wiring but if you have ever looked into the hard top it is a bit of a cluster !@#% and not much sense to how the stock lights where wired. I would like to understand the grounds in the hard top as it seams those are coming up from both sides of the arch but the power wire " blue" is coming up from the starboard side.

Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Jim

:One side note. Any of you wanting to do the same with your down lights. I live in Utah and use a local plastic fab shop to cut the new lens. They have the cad on file now and all you would have to do is call the with a CC# and they will ship them to you, or I could facilitate getting them done.


Update on this project.
It was the dimmer switch causing the flutter.
Job all done and they work great. I didnt take any night pics as the top was up and I couldn't get a good shot of them on. IMG_2587 (1).jpgIMG_2584 (1).jpg IMG_3081.jpg IMG_3085.jpg IMG_3088 (1).jpg
 
What is the drain hose that goes into the very back bilge area under gen? I do not have salon heat/air. Cant figure what the drain hose goes to..

Also, is there any reason water would be under the walkway between the two engines? Does anyone know if that is solid under the diamond plate or if it could hold any water? I am just curious and it doesn't look east to figure get to.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

I have 2 hoses that drain into the rear bilge and they come from my rod holders on both sides of the boat. They can get a lot of water in them when washing the boat or a rain storm and it drains into the bilge....silly engineering, but they have to drain somewhere. I would prefer they went to a through hull fitting like the fuel tank overflows, but what do I know about boat engineering...LOL
 
I have 2 hoses that drain into the rear bilge and they come from my rod holders on both sides of the boat. They can get a lot of water in them when washing the boat or a rain storm and it drains into the bilge....silly engineering, but they have to drain somewhere. I would prefer they went to a through hull fitting like the fuel tank overflows, but what do I know about boat engineering...LOL
Mine drain into the air intake vents on the side, works fine
 
There is a drain hose on the "most useless ice bucket ever." Does it also drain into the bilge?
Mine simply drained behind the corner bench seat. Yep, I ripped that out to allow for my cockpit ac addition and the hole became a nice 6” duct location.
 
It's interesting how we all approach the same issue. The "useless ice bucket" is a flowerpot holder in our boat when underway. You know, it holds the Sea Ray issue yellow daisies. But seriously the water in the bilge was an annoyance for years. Never had very much water and it was only when it rained/washed the boat/cruised in snotty conditions. I always assumed it was from the engine vents on the hull and to an extent it still is. Turned out that much of my water came from a leak in the stern run rub rail support just to the starboard of the aft center. I had the yard strip off the rail and support and address it. Now it's great with the additional of a small bead of silicone caulk on top of the rub rail support/hull joint.
Now any small amount of water in the bilge can be traced to those two drains from the engine vents. I like the idea of a dedicated shower sump to handle that plus the cockpit A/C drain. Where have you guys located this? The forward E.R. bilge?
 
She's unwrapped!! Now to start on the long list of To-Do's.
- Fix hydraulic platform
- Rebuild Racors
- New Reverso oil exchanger
- Change fluids and filters
- Install complete new stereo
- New RogueWave wifi extender
- Shaft line cutters
- New engine room lights
- New hardtop lights (Lumitec T180 White/blue LED)
- Propspeed on the running gear
- Etc,etc, etc
IMG_0625.gif
 
It's interesting how we all approach the same issue. The "useless ice bucket" is a flowerpot holder in our boat when underway. You know, it holds the Sea Ray issue yellow daisies. But seriously the water in the bilge was an annoyance for years. Never had very much water and it was only when it rained/washed the boat/cruised in snotty conditions. I always assumed it was from the engine vents on the hull and to an extent it still is. Turned out that much of my water came from a leak in the stern run rub rail support just to the starboard of the aft center. I had the yard strip off the rail and support and address it. Now it's great with the additional of a small bead of silicone caulk on top of the rub rail support/hull joint.
Now any small amount of water in the bilge can be traced to those two drains from the engine vents. I like the idea of a dedicated shower sump to handle that plus the cockpit A/C drain. Where have you guys located this? The forward E.R. bilge?
All good ideas, again mine is very small and I am sure from washing etc but it bothers me. Wonder if you could even add a small sump in the back to contain it. ( may not be worth it now that I know where it is coming from) Seems like running back up front would be a long run. Or run to air intake like TheWolfTC suggests.
Also interesting on the rub rail. Thanks again everyone.
 
It's interesting how we all approach the same issue. The "useless ice bucket" is a flowerpot holder in our boat when underway. You know, it holds the Sea Ray issue yellow daisies. But seriously the water in the bilge was an annoyance for years. Never had very much water and it was only when it rained/washed the boat/cruised in snotty conditions. I always assumed it was from the engine vents on the hull and to an extent it still is. Turned out that much of my water came from a leak in the stern run rub rail support just to the starboard of the aft center. I had the yard strip off the rail and support and address it. Now it's great with the additional of a small bead of silicone caulk on top of the rub rail support/hull joint.
Now any small amount of water in the bilge can be traced to those two drains from the engine vents. I like the idea of a dedicated shower sump to handle that plus the cockpit A/C drain. Where have you guys located this? The forward E.R. bilge?

For my cockpit AC/drain line from the pan, I ran it to the port side "main line" drain connection. If you follow the floor pan drain line from the engine room hatch, you will see that there is a 2nd drain line attachment point that has a rubber cap and hose clamp. I removed the cap and connected the new drain line to that point along with the circulating pump drain as well. This was the easiest place I could find without drilling new holes into the boat for the water to pump out. I am guessing Sea Ray added this dormant drain port for the possible AC addition...just a guess anyway.

IMG_1355.JPG
 
For my cockpit AC/drain line from the pan, I ran it to the port side "main line" drain connection. If you follow the floor pan drain line from the engine room hatch, you will see that there is a 2nd drain line attachment point that has a rubber cap and hose clamp. I removed the cap and connected the new drain line to that point along with the circulating pump drain as well. This was the easiest place I could find without drilling new holes into the boat for the water to pump out. I am guessing Sea Ray added this dormant drain port for the possible AC addition...just a guess anyway.

View attachment 54651
Thanks. I will look for that second drain attachment point. Right now my cockpit A/C condensate drains into the forward bilge area in the engine room. Running it over to the common drain makes more sense but the dealer installed this unit years ago and they probably looked for the shortest run.
 
I had 2 drains in the rear bilge. Port was from the engine vent and the starboard was from the Vent with a tee in it for the cockpit ac. I installed a small shower sump box below the generator and ran the output of that to the unused port drain wolf is describing above. Bilge is bone dry at this point and I have to admit it’s really nice.
 
Hi Gang,
I have been doing some research on the DRSA "Janamica" Down light that we have in our salons (or at least some of us do). Most places are changing $150.00 PLUS per light but I found a dealer on the east coast that is only charging $95 for the same light!!!

I placed an order today for the Gold polished blue/cool white dimmable led 12v: $97.95ea plus shipping. If it were only the white standard light they were $95.00 ea plus shipping. The polished chrome white lights were also $95.00 ea.

If interested you can connect with:
Melissa or Hannah
Silver Cloud Harbor Marina
609-693-2145
They were great to deal with!

Hope that helps :)
 
TheWolfTC...

Mind posting a few good pics of those when you get them? I have changed everything to 5000K and I am worried their cool white at 6500K is going to be too different.

TIA

Josh
 
I'm a little confused with your changes to salon lighting. It sounds pretty expensive but I'm sure you have you want now.

I went a less expensive route when I converted to LED in 2012 by simply taking out the halogen bulb and reflector and inserting the MR-11 2 pin LED bulb into the salon fixtures. (quality LED's run very cool and the reflector isn't needed due to the design of the bulb.) I used a warm white LED pretty much everywhere and they are dimmable on the 110V circuit. I used the same bulbs in the 12V lamps as well. The only places I used cool white was in the heads. At that time I purchased everything from superbrightleds.com and the cost of the High Power MR-11 bulbs were $14.45 each. (It appears the new replacement MR-11 are now only $5.95 and the WW is rated at 2600K, CW at 6300K) They have worked perfectly since the install using those original ceiling fixtures.
In the cockpit I again used the four existing overhead fixtures in the hard top and simply added a second set of festoon bulbs (@ $2.79) and sockets (@ $1.19). I changed the panel switch to a two pole rocker so that "up" position is two fairly bright LED's in each fixture (can't remember the type of LED 2 pin but they are brighter and run cooler than the halogens while being energy efficient) and the additional festoons are the colored lights activated by the "down" position on the rocker. These give softer colored light in conjunction with both under seat and engine vent LED rope lighting.
In the engine room back in 2009 I added five Balmar "ship's light" fixtures (#458 from Defender) and inserted ultra compact CFL bulbs. Fantastic and bright lighting. Very safe within the enclosed fixtures but that was before LED were popular. I will stick with them now because they are on the A.C. circuit. I left the original 12V lighting in place and no longer use it.
 
I had 2 drains in the rear bilge. Port was from the engine vent and the starboard was from the Vent with a tee in it for the cockpit ac. I installed a small shower sump box below the generator and ran the output of that to the unused port drain wolf is describing above. Bilge is bone dry at this point and I have to admit it’s really nice.
Seems like you wouldn’t need a large box. Can you provide a picture of your sump set up? Also where did you pull power?
Thanks
 
I’m not sure you can even see it but it’s right below the generator platform on the left side of the pic attached. It’s not in a perfect place but it’s held down by only 2 screws so if I need access I’ll remove those and work on it. I looked around for multiple ideas but couldn’t find anywhere I liked better. I got my power from the bus bar on the transom under the generator panel. There is power and ground there for the bilge pumps and that’s what runs this so it will have constant power. I used a rule shower sump it comes with a 500gph pump and I adapted the inlet and outlet to 5/8”. No need for anything larger just for a shower sump.

I can try to a take dedicated picture next weekend for you. It’s right behind the generator battery.
 

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Anchor Update:

For those interested I have been on a year-long search for a new anchor. The plow type that was factory on our boats just won’t hold well without significant oversizing in our muddy bottom of Galveston bay. I really wanted a Rocha or Mantis but with the roller they will not fit the bowsprit (I tried). I knew I need a scoop type anchor to hold well around here so that left a Vulcan or ultra. I just couldn’t find anyone with the Vulcan who could conform it would work and the reviews were just average at best. Ended up buying an ultra 60lb, ultra swivel (only because it rights the anchor as it comes up and yes I tried it without this to no avail). I replaced the chain with 150ft acco 5/16” g4 galvanized and spliced 125ft of 9/16” megabraid for a total of 275ft. I also had a thimble spliced in the end of the rode and attached that to the u bolt in the anchor locker.

Lastly I painted the chain at 30,60,90, 120ft then had rode markers spliced in at 150,180,210,240. At 260 I painted 6ft of the rode with red spray paint as a last chance reminder of sorts. In addition I had a bridle made of 1/2” 3 strand with each leg 16ft long with eye splices and the ultra chain hook.

The progress 1 windless was cleaned and lubed and works like a dream. I haven’t had the chance to anchor out but I will in the next couple weeks and report back. I can say the anchor sure sprays off much easier being all stainless when returning from the muck.

I learned a few things from this experience... 1. Turn the boat bow toward the dock. 2. The anchor locker needs attention. I cleaned it, replaced all the hoses,clamps, and changed the thru hull drains to stainless. 3. It’s much easier to take the rode home and set it up there then mess with it on the dock, I used a rubbermade tote to move mine around (don’t drag the chain on concrete). 4. It will not work with a standard shackle, the anchor is too wide for a 3/8” shackle and that is as large as the 5/16” chain will hold. 5. The anchor rollers are no longer available and must be custom turned out of Delrin. I used mermaid marine in Virginia. One of the 3 rollers will have to be changed at the next haul out because it’s impossible to reach the bolts. 6. A chain stop cannot be properly fitted with this anchor and bow roller because the anchor sticks up when in the roller so a bridle must be used.

Hope this helps someone.
 

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Josh, I too ended up with the Ultra 60. It's a perfect fit for our boats. For the shackle I used a Wichard allen head. The metric equivalent of a 3/8 shackle works well. Since I only use chain the swivel was not necessary. I have a single line grab hook to unload the chain in calm weather and a Mantus bridle for windy conditions. It's a great setup!

P.S. Did you get the domed letters?
 
Thanks for the info! Do you have a link to that shackle? All the shackles I found would have been the weak link, I was looking for a working load of 3900lb. The anchor fits nicely for sure but was a process and of course I underestimated what it took to get it all complete.

I have not ordered the domed letters just yet, glad you reminded me I’ll call them now.
 
The thru-hulls you changed to stainless, are they 1.5"? Did you change only the thru-hull on the hull side or did you change the drain on the deck also? I was wondering if there was an option for stainless here as well.
 

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