460 DA Owners Thread

It can be done, I had a fiberglass guy make a frame, then I cut the dash out to fit in 2 screens, check page 31, post 613
 
Anyone attempted to try to level the surface between the area for the MFD and the area below it where I have a VHF? I’m upgrading to new Garmin electronics. I’d love to squeeze in two new 12” MFD displays. Thought about a piece of star board to raise the area up. And then a new wood grain panel on top of that to make it look clean. Thoughts?
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Or go big like this. Ignore the arrow....I had to search my phone for a picture.

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Hey all,
At some point PO replaced my Tac Guage with hours so I have about a 600 hour gap on my hours on the gauge. (Not engines) I have the manual 6 CTA. Was wondering if there is a way to get them reading the same. Have heard some say you can hook a battery up to the back someway and run it up but dont know the specifics. Anyone ever done this and have some more detail how to fix?
TIA
 
I am interested in adding an Air conditioner to the cockpit. Can someone tell me where it was located, size etc. in later years
Thanks
 
Is one of these really that much better than the other? Mine are getting loud and time to replace. Is the expensive one really any quieter?
 

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I am interested in adding an Air conditioner to the cockpit. Can someone tell me where it was located, size etc. in later years
Thanks

Can't speak for others but mine is located under the bench next to the drivers seat. It's 16k BTU and it's old but still works fine. Mine has two vents (one on the drivers panel that's approx 3" and then one in the sitting area right behind drivers seat and is approx 12" wide). Hope this info helps you.

P.S. Mine will NOT keep me cool on a 90* day. Can't keep up. Only way is to have nice shades around the boat, leave it run for hours on end and hopefully will cool down.
 
I, like Blown, have a similar setup. The 16k Turbo will fit under the seat and is significantly better then the original. Now there is a dometic 18k available and I would buy that if I did it again. Happy to talk more about this if you want ideas. Hardest part will be running the electric and pump wires back to the trigger box.

Having an ac in the helm is amazing. It allows me to utilize the back of the boat in the summer or winter as long as the canvas is up. The unit will not keep it cold while you’re under way but it will control the temp once you’ve reached your destination and feels great just blowing on you while you’re running. Definitely something I wouldn’t do without and I just replaced mine 3 months ago.
 
I, like Blown, have a similar setup. The 16k Turbo will fit under the seat and is significantly better then the original. Now there is a dometic 18k available and I would buy that if I did it again. Happy to talk more about this if you want ideas. Hardest part will be running the electric and pump wires back to the trigger box.

I can’t help but wonder if a bigger (24k/32k) would fit under there with some maneuvering? The 16k, in my humble opinion, is insufficient.
 
I thought hard about that. I don’t think so. The 16k turbo really is probably 30% better then the original 16. They do make an 18 variable speed now so that’s what I would do but it’s $1k more. I also think an additional pump and dedicated thru hull could help around here because our water temps get 90*.
 
I thought hard about that. I don’t think so. The 16k turbo really is probably 30% better then the original 16. They do make an 18 variable speed now so that’s what I would do but it’s $1k more. I also think an additional pump and dedicated thru hull could help around here because our water temps get 90*.

Yes, the newer units are far better/efficient than the older models like I have. I’ve been looking at replacement units and believe the marinaire is one of the better units out there. Like most, I have the turbo fans on my old units and while they help, they are getting old and honestly, have far exceeded my expectations of 18 year old units :)

I think the newer units also draw less amps on initial startup and just overall running.

With regard to another thru-hull, I am a fan of less than more —- not a fan of more holes through the boat. Can’t help but think maybe could use a bigger/more efficient pump to draw more water through the systems?
 
In theory a bigger pump sounds good but it depends on the thru-hull size and strainer size. And it’s not bad having independent systems if anything goes wrong. In my case they are all running on a single hole and pump but if I were starting from scratch I may rethink that as the cost of running it all together is expensive as well if you need to add or upgrade a trigger box. I appreciate your feedback for sure here, hopefully someone in a super hot climate will add an 18k and we can talk about the results.

as far as Marinaire units, my 2 neighbors have them and they work fine but they don’t blow nearly as hard as the turbos. They do come with thermostats and are significantly less expensive then Dometic units. I am a dealer for Dometic but really no other brand offers service, parts, and warranty which we all eventually need so I’m loyal to them at this point.
 
In theory a bigger pump sounds good but it depends on the thru-hull size and strainer size. And it’s not bad having independent systems if anything goes wrong. In my case they are all running on a single hole and pump but if I were starting from scratch I may rethink that as the cost of running it all together is expensive as well if you need to add or upgrade a trigger box. I appreciate your feedback for sure here, hopefully someone in a super hot climate will add an 18k and we can talk about the results.

as far as Marinaire units, my 2 neighbors have them and they work fine but they don’t blow nearly as hard as the turbos. They do come with thermostats and are significantly less expensive then Dometic units. I am a dealer for Dometic but really no other brand offers service, parts, and warranty which we all eventually need so I’m loyal to them at this point.

Folks at my dock have purchased the Marinaire units and love them thus far. In fact, one of my dock neighbors moved from a 16k to I believe a 12k and swears by it. But he, too, went from an older Dometic to the new MarinAire 12k. I have no imperical data or stats to prove otherwise. I looked into replacing all 3 of my units (16k salon, 16k cockpit and I believe 8k for main salon) and the price of new Dometic vs. MarinAire was just a bit on the ridiculous side and I just can’t justify it. I’m sure the new Dometic is good but is it good enough to justify the extra cost of getting its 16k vs. the MarinAire? I don’t know but I’d like to see some statistics/data to prove how much better Dometic is vs. the extra cost other than paying the extra price for service/warranty that I may/may not use.
 
Locally it’s about a 20% up charge but you may have a greedy dealer.
 
1 New on Left -similar connection layout 20221227_141535.jpg 2 Doors removed small back panel removed (2).jpg 3 Oscillation saw removed back panel  20221227_131624.jpg 4 Old onw Removed-notice raised platform  20221228_084711.jpg 5 New One Installed-notice 4 bracket to hold back panel 20230112_150633.jpg
Will start cutting the board out next time I come to Grand Haven. Pulled out the sofa yesterday and capped the water lines. I plan to remove the entire back board and when I reinstall, make whole board removable instead of that little hole.

The water heater has been replaced. Here were the steps necessary and some pictures.
Change out Water Heater
Kuuma 11850 - 11 Gallon Water Heater - 240v
Hodges Marine $440. Had the 240v in stock
Step Action
1 Remove sofa. I did not need to cut wires.
2 Remove Doors and Hinges
3 Using an oscillating saw, cut out back panel. Insure hoses and electrical wires are out of the way. You will be cutting thru staples coming in from the sides.
4 Disconnect all wires, hoses
5 Remove 2 hold down flanges--they will not be reused
6 Pull out old water heater
7 Place new water heater in
8 The mounting flanges are fore and aft, so new holes need to be drilled for the screws
9 Reconnect all wires and hoses.
10 Check operation--wiring and for leaks
11 I put in an L Bracket to support the shelf
12 Put some kind of pieces in corners to screw back panel into
13 Install some kind of handle of top of back panel so it can be pulled back out
14 Screw in back panel
15 Reinstall doors
16 Remount Sofa

Photos
1. Old and new together--notice how similar the connections are spaced
2. Doors removed and back panel access board removed
3. View of old heater after cutting out back board
4. Old heater removed-notice raised platform
5. New heater installed-notice corner brackets for attaching back panel
 
I, like Blown, have a similar setup. The 16k Turbo will fit under the seat and is significantly better then the original. Now there is a dometic 18k available and I would buy that if I did it again. Happy to talk more about this if you want ideas. Hardest part will be running the electric and pump wires back to the trigger box.

Having an ac in the helm is amazing. It allows me to utilize the back of the boat in the summer or winter as long as the canvas is up. The unit will not keep it cold while you’re under way but it will control the temp once you’ve reached your destination and feels great just blowing on you while you’re running. Definitely something I wouldn’t do without and I just replaced mine 3 months ago.

Is there an access panel under the seat cushion to get to the unit?
 
Yes but the seat comes off with 4 screws from underneath.
 
Hi folks. Getting ready for a long trip and working on some preventive maintenance items. Since owning this boat, the throttles has never been lined up with each other (port throttle goes a little higher than starboard), is there some way to adjust them to get them dialed in better?
 
Hi folks. Getting ready for a long trip and working on some preventive maintenance items. Since owning this boat, the throttles has never been lined up with each other (port throttle goes a little higher than starboard), is there some way to adjust them to get them dialed in better?

Anyone know?
 

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