So, the water lines do run forward behind the W/D then the go forward behind the fridge until they turn to STBD. and go under the floor to that small storage area in front of the fridge. Taking the fridge out allows access to the “pressure” tank and behind the W/D. If the hot water heater were to be leaking, it wouldn’t go that way. The panel below the water heater…??? I’m guessing just an enlarged surface for the heater. What a total PIA it would be to replace the heater!!!!! All that being said, if the heater relief valve isn’t leaking and no signs of water on the face, I’m a little perplexed as to where the water is coming from. Pull the fridge and check the washer/wrinkler lines? PS: Another thing I just thought of. If you had a consistent leak, you would hear your pump running periodically. Unless you are on the city water connection.
I upgraded to the 32" Class The Frame QLED HDR Smart TV (2020) Only 1 wire for everything and works great.....
Has anyone ever had issues with the throttle body on older style (2001-2003) DAs? My throttle (stainless with gold balls) is incredibly stiff and is that way even with the cables disconnected so isolating it to the throttle box itself. Is there a way to grease the internals of the unit and does anyone have a recommendation on replacement if it needs to be scrapped? Would ideally get the same one but don't see a part number or markings anywhere.
if you take the cover off you’ll find a set screw that applies friction to the lever itself. I would try backing that screw off a little bit and see if that helps.
Sorry. I was sitting on my boat looking at my throttle controls at the helm and didn’t realize I need to explain myself. If you have the silver cover over the throttle control assembly at the helm there’s a screw on the sides that allow you to pull the cover off. Under the cover is the actual assembly and a friction screw that you can loosen. That would be my first place to start.
Well guys, seems like we just met. After about 3 years in the 460 family, we’ve moved on to a Tiara 50 Coupe. Brought new boat back from Lake Ontario, Welland canal was an adventure. I’ll be around the forum because Tiara has nothing like this community.
Soo Sorry, I didn't see this post or Picture. If I remember correctly, one side is the top screw and the other is the bottom screw. Just loosen one up and you will know immediately. You should be able to see the cable on the top side of one and that would be the screw to turn to tighten or loosen the shifter.
We had a 5 night trip with friends last week, and they both couldn't sleep in the aft cabin together because the forward section of the folded down "bed" slopes forward quite a bit. Before i grab my crowbar and do something drastic like this, does everyone have this issue? If not, where do I start figuring out the fix? If it were me, I'd leave it as a bed, but the much better half of this partnership prefers a couch...she wins every time!
I had the same problem in the main salon and used some wedges to angle the base towards the starboard side to flatten it out. Toughest part of the job is getting behind the couch to access the bolts. I also got tired of the uncomfortable bed in the aft cabin and removed the entire couch and chair and put in a regular double mattress - far more comfortable and we never used the couch anyway!
Sorry no one has responded Jeff. Many of the neeer boats have them but I’m not sure it’s really worth the trouble to refit a 460 unless you are doing major plumbing changes. We are installing teak and holly sole in our interior. We are also fitting new teak trim. It should be done next week but thought I would share a few pics. We still need to mortise pulls in the hatches and varnish but I think you get the idea.
The new floor looks great!! When I did my floor a few years ago I used these for the ring pulls. They looked great and matched the floor nicely as opposed to the standard chrome lifts. (oil rubbed bronze) Just in case you were still deciding on what lift to get. https://www.signaturehardware.com/search/result/?kw=&q=916141 Here is a pic with the chrome lifts before I changed them out.
I do like those pulls. We have a Boatwright who is doing it so I just left it to him actually. Your floor looks good. Trimming the hatches is tough
Yes, trimming the hatches is a real PIA. I trimmed them on my 370 years ago when I did that flooring but on the 460 I opted to go without trim and get the hatch as tight as I could without it binding in the opening.(obviouxly...LOL) We thought it came out really nice but it did take some time and planning to get it to be nearly invisible. Yours is looking really good! Photo upload tip: To get the photos to look proper and not be left or right 90° I do the following: 1. Right click on the picture in whatever folder it is stored in. 2. Select "edit" 3. It should open in Paint. 4. Select from the top menu "Re-size" 5. Uncheck the box that says 'Maintain aspect ratio". You want to change one of the dimensions. 6. Select at the top Pixels 7. Change the larger dimension down a couple hundred values. In this case I would re-type 1816 in lieu of 2016. 8. Select save and then you should be able to upload the image to CSR in the proper alignment so that you don't have to look at it sideways. I don't know why CSR manipulates the photos as it does if you maintain the proper aspect ratio, but this little trick helps. It may be slightly out of skew but at least the pictures can be viewed properly. Just my 2 cents worth for everyone. Have a GREAT weekend!
Forward head shower drain is draining very slowly. Ideas on how to clean it? Don't want to wreck the shower sump float or pump.
So rebuilt my toilets last week and my buddy needed his done also. Thought they would be the same but they are different. The 508 version has the funnel up high and pain in the ass. The guys over at EV marine helped out huge. Access to get to the hose clamp on the sewage hose is impossible. You have to pound the funnel out of the housing and it was a bitch. They recommended we upgrade to a 509 version like my boat which mounts the funnel to the boat like mine and make maintenance a lot easier. Couple hundred bucks and 5 hours later updated, rebuilt and done. Amazing how much corrosion on the ball shaft and how the o-rings just wear out like expected.
Well here it is almost finished. I just t have a couple of spots to address. Took a month to the day and made a huge mess but I think it turned out pretty nice. Happy to answer any questions if y’all have them.