420AC Thread

I noticed today that my 44 Ac stereo and speakers are all tied into the 120v system including speakers which are switched on the bridge .. So am I right in thinking if the generator is not running there will be no audio while under way ? I guess there will need to be another 12v stereo installed ??? Thank you...
 
look like we getting a few more members with the AC Models maybe we can get some more post on new ideas
 
My wife and I were talking about this same issue this weekend trying to decide whether to leave the Lady in water this winter? did you happen find out any more info regarding the hardtop issue for the bridge? We have decided to leave the boat in water this year, winterize her & since we are totally enclosed decided not to shrink wrap. I will be providing additional support to the bimini in case a heavy show does show up.
I am also amazed that our thread is not all that active? I have not made many modification other than adding a Hurley davit and some cosmetics. Did have to have deisel worked on this pat July, bad overheating problems, they seemed to be resovled. Still not getting to the cruising speeds that you all are getting, maxing out around 18 knots at WOT. Aslo still having soot issues.
Planning to change out our tv's & stereo systems this winter (not working at all). just started changing the lighting to LED, going to use blue in the bridge & cockpit.

Happy boating!
Tony & Deb
Crazy lady
 
Tony,

What did you determine the over heating problems as I have had to keep ours below 2250 when the water was in the upper 70's this summer. Starboard engine water got up over 200 and I had to pull the engines back to 2250 coming back from the long summer vacation run. Put a small camera into the intake side of the heat exchanger and found some rubber and old zinc's that had accumulated over time. Will be pulling the end cap off both heat exchangers and having the cleaned along with pulling the debris out. It would appear the original owner's had some zinc break off and never had gotten the pieces out. I replaced both raw water pumps last fall as the Starboard side had a small leak and we couldn't fix it. When we replace something on one engine we do the same thing to the other so they stay on the same schedule. I will anyone whom has the 3126 cats in their AC the Port side requires a snake to change out and even then it took two of us to get the new one back in place as there is no room, imagine that.


On another note I have changed all the TV's out over the last couple of years as well as added one to the rear deck so I will take some pictures and post if anyone cares to see them. A couple of other modifications have been done as well so I will take some pictures of them and post next week hopefully. We are about 70 miles as the crow flies from you Tony and we are own the boat year round as we are under a covered roof.
 
John,
It was a combination of things, we had all the impellers replaced last August (they were shot) and did a flush at our previous marina then the storm hit and did not really have chance to sea trial plus the admiral had an accident and broke her leg. In the spring when we splashed the over heating was persisting and could not run over 1900 rpm for any length of time. Did not trust the previous marina's any further. We took the Lady over to Seven Seas at Mears at the recommedation of our surveyor, Reno Panico. They worked on it for 3 weeks. did an acid flush and found additional rubber & zinc. We also pulled the boat and tuned the props, that all seemed to work. WOT is around 2750 and we also seen it as high as 2900 which is above specs. This is the first boat we have owned and love it, still learning a lot about boating and diesels. Going to try and take a clas on the Cats this winter.
We tried to make down your way last month when we finally got a weeks vacation, we have had brutal year at work, foul weather killed the 1st half and ended up just staying a few days at St Mike's on the hook. Pictures would be great, I also changed out the bar sink and faucet, will try to post. Probably will change out the ice maker, replaced all the hoses, they were cracking left & right, this past weekend it stopped making ice completely. I will need to have all the guages on the starboard side either calibrated or replaced, they are bouncing all over the place.
I know you all are little south of us, we are still debating whether or not to winterize? Any opinions would help. Mears puts bubblers out & was planning to leave the heat pumps operating through the winter & just blow out the water lines. Need to figure that issue out yet. Will also put electric heaters in the bridge, cockpit & engine room. We live in Pittsburgh, our dock mate lives close by and said he would check on our boat, good people.

Tony
Crazy Lady
 
Your over heating problems could be from the trans cooler check that it plugs easier than the heat exchanger. Pulled mine last year and could not believe how much corrosion was in them. Also changed all TV , removed VCR and Installed DVD, Ungraded GPS, Installed Satellite TV, New floors new props will try to post some pictures
 
Tony.

Your on board heatpumps will eventually kick out/off on low pressure with colder inlet water temperatures usally around 40 degree EWT+- so don't count on them for any source nor would I leave them on during the winter for any reason. I can and do use mine till the EWT kicks one of them off line then go 100% boat smart heaters.

John
 
John,
Thanks, didn't think about that. I guess I have one other question, with using the portable electric heaters do you completely winterize the boat or just the water systems? The marina is always walking the docks & said that if there is any heavy snow they will handle it; they are also going to put bubblers around the boat. Being new to Bay not really sure what to expect.
Twyant, will check into the trans cooler as you mentioned. Ran the boat this weekend with trip up the Chester River, no real issues except for some sooting that I assume was due to following wind.

Tony
Crazy Lady
 
Hello all,
I have question since I cannot get to the boat for a few weeks. Is there a 120v outlet available in the engine room?? I have never seen one & have not had a need to look for one until now. I am planning to put a boat safe heater in the engine room, since I am leaving the boat in the water and did not want to winterize the engines or generatorand have no problem rewiring if needed. Looking for advise as to size also, 650 watt or the 1000 watt? I am also planning to put two heaters in the salon since I will probably not be able to depend on the heat pumps when water temp drops below 40F. Thanks for any help.

Tony
Crazy Lady
 
I'm just 50 miles north of you on the North East River. I keep my boat in the water 12 months under a covered shed. I would not dream of not winterizing the most expensive parts of my boat and depending on electricity to prevent freezing. Been doing this for 30+ years. Proceed at your own risk. Eastern Shore power has been less than 100% reliable.
 
Tony,

I did not have a receptacle in the engine room and would not expect to find one on any Sea Ray from the factory nor would I install one with gas engines. I see you have 3116 Kitty Cats and I installed (2) Wolverine Oil pan heaters on my 3127TA's 3 years ago and recommend this arrangement. First off the engines love being nice and toasty and the engine block heats up and radiants heat throughout the entire engine room. As you can see I'm probably 50+ miles Southwest from you and yes you always run the risk of a power outage. With the engine blocks being heated even if the power goes off for a while you will have resideual heat energy that will last a lot longer than just a air source heating system will provide.

While I'm a 2 hour drive from home to the boat the marina has people around most all the time and I have other backup arrangements made in the event of a power failure. Worst case the gen set gets started up by people on site. The Wolverine heaters can be found on line and they have a sizing recommendation that you can follow. I'm on the boat 45+ weekends a year and highly recommend the belly pan heaters.

PS. Make sure you block off all your engine room as well as other vent intakes and exhaust covers with foam rubber or something to keep the heat in the boat. In addition I re-plumbed the domestic water piping to the various fixtures so I could drain down & close off the wash down for the anchor locker, deck shower, sink and other items as I use water from the 120 gallon tank on board all winter for bathing and other water needs. It takes some changes but it can be done.
John
 
Hello everyone, I guess our thread is not to active? I have question, the blower on the aft cabin a/c needs replaced, 5 years old. The a/c unit is located under the sofa on the starboard side and tucked in the corner under the plywood cushion support. Did any of you need to change or replace this unit, if so how in the heck did you get to it. My first thoughts are to disconnect the wiring and the flex duct and slide the unit to area in the hole to work on it? Alternate is to remove most of the vertical cushion, then the horizontal plywood support to allow full acces or or get the saw out and trim the corner out and figure a way to refasten?
I had the marina look at it, they want $385 for labor (3 hrs) & $640 for the blower, I checked out the part pricing and it is inline. May be hiring the mechanic could be the best solution. Any thoughts.:huh:
 
I ran into a similar issue with my aft cabin blower motor. I was priced 600 for the blower motor alone. I got back to the motor and removed it, I found that it was a common electric motor and I called a local electrical store, they found the exact motor for $22.00.
 
Ray, I was thinking of that also, getting to it is the PITA. Just took another look and will most likely cut cut an in a new access panel in the plywood panel & jus replace the motor. Thanks
 
Can't help you with the access issue but I was also able to repalce the blower for about $20 - $30. I found them at an appliance repair place but I think Graingers also had them.
 
Aft Vacuflush line to holding tank:

I have isolated a blockage to be somewhere in the line from the Aft engine bulkhead to the Y connector. The line is located low down on the starboard side of the starboard engine. The Y connector is roughly where the back of the alternator is. Sea Ray was not thinking when they designed this boat. How on earth do you get to this line to replace it?
 
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