420 DA Thread

Escapade said:
While clearly I cant even begin to measure up to your 50 Plus years of wealth & knowledge in the automotive industry. My hunch was a 65 Durometer cast urethane wheel with a metal insert was sure to fail. The puller would have distorted the wheel at a minimumView attachment 142809 . I left the box of pullers on the deck and retrieved the wheel in outstanding condition.
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The correct puller with the correct attachments will not damage that wheel. I have done 4-5 of those including my own.
upload_2023-4-13_17-19-15.jpeg

upload_2023-4-13_17-20-30.jpeg
 
Blueone said:
Now you are just showing off :)
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The only showing off part is that set cost about $1800.00 back in the mid 80s and is now worth north of 3K, plus a couple hundred for a few extras that I have added over the years laying in the bottom. So basically it has doubled in price. Still use it a couple times a week and has paid for itself many times over.
 
Could somebody please post a picture of their shower sump box here?

Mine is leaking and it is coming from where the white corrugated hose exits the box. What I have does not seem to match up with the Searay Parts Guide which shows part number 1521426 a "THRU-HULL SS 1.5"X 1.5"BARB" at the point of exit from the sump.

I believe if I had the barb (the dealer says that part number is no longer available) that it would not be leaking where the corrugated hose exits. Would greatly appreciate other pictures to see if others are set up the way my boat is actually set up or if yours reflects what is shown in the Sea Ray Parts Manual.

Circling in RED the parts I am talking about here:

Sump.jpg

Sump Parts List.jpg
 
My sump was leaking at the same spot when I got my boat. There was a grommet that the ribbed hose passed through that was being pulled out of the hole in the box by the sharp bend of the hose.
I siliconed around the male collar of the grommet that fit the hole in the box, pushed it back in and screwed a couple of ss screws into the collar on the inside of the box to keep it from being pulled out again by the hose.
No more leaks and I never got around to taking the screws out.
 
My bow thruster failed to work this past weekend. I had the battery changed towards the end of last season, and it worked just fine a few weeks ago when I took it out the first time. When I try to use it, the green light on the thruster control blinks red a couple times. I hear no sounds or clicks when I try. I did charge it before I took the boat out. Thoughts?
 
Double check if the connections are tight. If the cables were off recently it could be that simple.
 
Captsteve427 said:
If I remember correctly, there's a breaker in the engine room on the forward bulkhead?!
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A large fuse on mine. If it was tripped or popped it would be impossible for him to get the red light.


A volt meter in hand would be nice if you are in the battery area.
 
I just got rid of the original Sea Ray Navigator chart plotter and replaced it with Garmin 1243xsv. In researching how to link in the transducer that is on the boat (Airmar DT800) I'm finding out the cable was unique for the old Navigator. Has anyone done the replacement that can offer guidance on cable connections from the transducer to the Garmin chart plotter? Another question is that the speed paddle is not part of the transducer but its own fairing attached to the bottom of the boat. Is the speed paddle wired to the chart plotter?
 
I'm looking to update my 3-Carbon Monoxide detectors and would like to know which Fireboy-Xintex unit others have used.
There is a CMD6 without an interconnect and one with. Does anyone know if the factory units were interconnected with each other so that if one sounded, all would sound?
 
brewster16 said:
I just got rid of the original Sea Ray Navigator chart plotter and replaced it with Garmin 1243xsv. In researching how to link in the transducer that is on the boat (Airmar DT800) I'm finding out the cable was unique for the old Navigator. Has anyone done the replacement that can offer guidance on cable connections from the transducer to the Garmin chart plotter? Another question is that the speed paddle is not part of the transducer but its own fairing attached to the bottom of the boat. Is the speed paddle wired to the chart plotter?
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I replaced the Sea Ray Navigator with the Garmin 1243xsv on my boat last fall. I had to install a NEMA2000 backbone into the Garmin and connect the transducer to that. My boat is a 2004 and had an Airmar d17 transducer that I replaced with a DTS800. Search transducer in the electronics Q&A and you will find the thread from my install.
 
@brewster16 I did the same thing that @SRMark described when I installed my Garmin 8610 xsv on my 420. Running the backbone to the engine room is not that hard and once you get it down there, it will be available for future upgrades! Think Garmin Auto-pilot!

Jaybeaux
 
brewster16 said:
I just got rid of the original Sea Ray Navigator chart plotter and replaced it with Garmin 1243xsv. In researching how to link in the transducer that is on the boat (Airmar DT800) I'm finding out the cable was unique for the old Navigator. Has anyone done the replacement that can offer guidance on cable connections from the transducer to the Garmin chart plotter? Another question is that the speed paddle is not part of the transducer but its own fairing attached to the bottom of the boat. Is the speed paddle wired to the chart plotter?
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The SR Navigator interface for the sonar was NMEA0183. The new MFD's are all NMEA2000 or their own propriety like Garmin xsv. As you have invested into the Garmin xsv then you should use that feature and purchase a transducer specifically for the Garmin sonar.
 
Purchasing is the EASY part.....but the devil, as always, is in the details. NMEA 2000 backbone....Its not as simple to make that happen without an installer....at least not for me. And here in NJ I cant seem to find a professional electronics installer! At this point I would happily fly SRMark, ttmott and my buddy Jaybeaux in to do this install!
 
brewster16 said:
Purchasing is the EASY part.....but the devil, as always, is in the details. NMEA 2000 backbone....Its not as simple to make that happen without an installer....at least not for me. And here in NJ I cant seem to find a professional electronics installer! At this point I would happily fly SRMark, ttmott and my buddy Jaybeaux in to do this install!
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Out of any electronic installation the NMEA 2000 network is the simplest. Unless you get into some of the more complex arrangements a basic network is four simple things - The backbone and it's routing, Branch lines off of the backbone, backbone terminators, and finally a power tap. All of this is plug and play.

The Backbone - this is the main "trunk line" that is routed throughout the boat wherever you desire to connect a device. The Backbone is interrupted by branch line taps using standard NMEA 2000 tees. The important thing about a Backbone is it is a linear run from one end of the data network to the other and each end of the Backbone has a terminating resistor (Terminator) installed. I think the big thing about routing a Backbone is to plan for growth. To extend a Backbone is nothing more than removing that end's termination resistor install a connector and add an extension cable, your branch cables, then reinstall the resistor on the end of the extened backbone. Typically, you want no devices on the ends of the backbone, only the terminating resistors.

Branch Lines - Branch lines are the cables that connect to the devices you desire to integrate into the network. These are the same types of cables and connectors that are used to build the Backbone. They are connected into the Backbone using standard NMEA 2000 Tees. There are no terminating resistors on branch lines. You typically cannot do a branch line then off of that branch line tees and multiple devices, keep one device for each branch line.

Power Tap - Somewhere in the Backbone a power tap needs to be installed so the NMEA 2000 network has power. Be aware that if all of the devices are self-powered (like MFD's) a power tap is not required. However that is rare. Things like GPS antennas, Sonar transducers, any Maretron device, engine monitor devices, ancillary displays, trim tabs, rudder position sensors, etc are powered from the NEMA 2000 network and consequently the backbone requires the power tap. The Power tap is nothing more than a Tee that connects into the backbone; it has a wire pigtail that needs to be connected to a fused power source (12V DC). Some desire to be able to switch the NMEA 2000 power on and off and others direct wire to the fuse/circuit breaker and keep the network always powered. If you have devices on the network that cannot be turned on and off on the device like a Sonar Transducer or GPS antenna then It is best to have a switching capability for the network power. For most of my network I have switches installed; occasionally my GPS antenna will stop sending data and a simple switch off and on will correct that.

Some of the NMEA 2000 devices require configuration and some do not. Typically a GPS antenna or Sonar transducer or rudder position sensor, for example, does not require any unique configuration to operate on the network; plug it in and use it. If however you should have two or more of the same devices on the same network you must identify them as 0, 1, 2, 3, etc so the devices that view them know which to exchange data with. This configuration is called "instances" (instance 0, instance 1, etc). The Instances you set for the device is associated with the device's Manufacturer's serial number so it is hard to get it confused. These configurations are encoded and maintained in the device (GPS antenna) itself. The configuration is executed through a display or programming device on the network. Every device on a network has an Instance and the default is "0". BTW, you can put any instance you desire on a device as long as they are different from each other on like devices. Another example is if you should have dual MFD's on the same network. In the setup of the MFD there is a NMEA 2000 configurator which you can establish the Instances. NMEA has established a standard language for the data and that is is transmitted in data packets called PGN's. Any NMEA 2000 compatible device receives and transmits data using the PGN protocol. It is important to note that for the typical user and basic system installer that all of the data is autonomous and there is no user involvement required. Conflicts occur if the same PGN's are simultaneously transmitted on the network with the same Instance (ie two GPS antennas using the same instance). But, this is all simple bookkeeping during system setup. Also, keep in mind the NMEA 2000 network makes no data; it is simply the wiring so connected devices and transmit, receive, and share data.

Now, of course, there are limitations like line lengths and power demand but all of this is super easy to do. For most of our boats you will find that line lengths and limitations of power on the network will not be an issue. Really, as long as you follow the basics, you can't hurt anything. Jump in and get your feet wet.
Tom
 
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