420 DA Thread

It has power going to and from the salon switch.
Something amiss between the switch and the light.
There still. Is that mystery wire at the bottom of the switch that has no power whether switched on or off
 

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On a 3 way switch you would turn the switch on the other end on and those mystery wires will now be the hot wires.
 
Just a heads up on door handles in our cabins. I have a door between the master and salon… 2005 went to a slider. Our door would slam shut in any type of wave so we always kept it closed. Last fall I took it out in 6 footers for haul out…. Door was closed but somehow destroyed the mechanism inside the handle. Any way ordered a new one from Flounder Piunder $200. It came a couple weeks ago and it was the wrong color.

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I talked to flounder and they said that’s the way they are coming in. They paid return shipping and gave me full credit and Southco’s contact info.
Called them and got it figured out they haven’t sold one since 2008. So not sure where FP is getting them. Southco set me up with a list of distributors and FP wasn’t on the list. Handle will ship in 12-15 weeks.
 
Hmmm - I purchased a lockset from FP a couple of years ago; not the handles but the guts.
Like you we got into some big seas and the door handle wouldn't stay horizontal and the door flopped around. The full height mirror came off the door and amazingly didn't break but it did put some scratches in the closet door.
Those lock mechanisms are complicated - as it ends up there is a spring that holds those heavy handles up and it's rather common those springs break. You can't buy just the spring; opportunity to repair???
 
ttmott said:
Hmmm - I purchased a lockset from FP a couple of years ago; not the handles but the guts.
Like you we got into some big seas and the door handle wouldn't stay horizontal and the door flopped around. The full height mirror came off the door and amazingly didn't break but it did put some scratches in the closet door.
Those lock mechanisms are complicated - as it ends up there is a spring that holds those heavy handles up and it's rather common those springs break. You can't buy just the spring; opportunity to repair???
Click to expand...
I already replaced the spring a year ago…. I had to destroy the mechanism by drilling holes thru it to get it to unlock….threw out the handles and the plates which was a big mistake.

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Captsteve427 said:
Hey guys, my recently purchased 44 Sundancer was manufactured with forward bow cushions with the tilt up back rests, but the PO said it was missing when he purchased the boat.
Has anybody had a bow cushion fabricated from scratch, while reusing the factory hardware, which I’d like to reuse if the factory design was functional. I’ve have never got the chance to see one with the tilt up backrests up close and have no idea how the poles function.
Click to expand...

I'd like to resurrect this post from the Fall, since I'm at the point that I have to decide on what material to use for the bow sun pad I'm having fabricated. I believe the missing factory pad was made out of Sunbrella.

On my prior boats, I've always had sunpads made out of vinyl and my canvas guy is trying to talk me out of Sunbrella because it will stain from suntan lotion. The problem is..... the admiral wants one with blue and white stripes, which can only be done in canvas. We use the pad a lot when on the hook and would like to get some feedback on what other owners consider is a more desirable material. Thnx.
 
We did a soft white vinyl for the pad itself. Then the fabricator talked me into a cover which I didn’t wAnt. It is sunbrella. I really like it now. Most times kids just put a towel on it and don’t remove the cover.
Plus the fab guy put directional snaps on every single snap, which is a pain in the ass. I hate directional snaps. A couple maybe but not all
 
Blueone said:
We did a soft white vinyl for the pad itself. Then the fabricator talked me into a cover which I didn’t wAnt. It is sunbrella. I really like it now. Most times kids just put a towel on it and don’t remove the cover.
Plus the fab guy put directional snaps on every single snap, which is a pain in the ass. I hate directional snaps. A couple maybe but not all
Click to expand...

Thnx for the feed back! I looks like it’s going to be a vinyl pad with a canvas cover.
 
Right now, the revamp of my entire sound system is low on my to-do list, so I’m just looking to replace the existing four cockpit speakers for now, since they’re shot.
I’d like to know if 420/44DA owners have changed their cockpit speakers while keeping the factory Clarion head unit & amp and which make/model did you use?
As with my other express cruisers that had arches mounted speakers, I found the mounting depth on them is limited and have yet to pull the exiting ones off to measure the depth, but assume the depth will be the same.
I don’t know what the power and ohm rating of the head unit/amp is yet to match the speakers to them.
 
Steve- our arches are deeper than you think. Pull off the lower bolster above the sink, Careful work with a putty knife will get it coming off. You will see access and get an idea of what will fit. We mounted the new Clarion 6.5 Premium's with LED lights, they fit fine. Also changed out the Sub w/ The Clarion Premium w/ LED. Just added an outlet in the arch and moving the TV above the sink. Ran an outlet in the bilge w/ a LED trouble light!
 
Escapade said:
Steve- our arches are deeper than you think. Pull off the lower bolster above the sink, Careful work with a putty knife will get it coming off. You will see access and get an idea of what will fit. We mounted the new Clarion 6.5 Premium's with LED lights, they fit fine. Also changed out the Sub w/ The Clarion Premium w/ LED. Just added an outlet in the arch and moving the TV above the sink. Ran an outlet in the bilge w/ a LED trouble light!
Click to expand...

I did get to pull and measure the mounting depth of the arch speakers.... 3" even. I'm thinking the JL Audio speakers will fit. The depth of all the others will fit any speaker.

Where did you get the power from for the 110 outlet in the bilge? That's on my to-do list too. Thnx
 
Captsteve427 said:
I did get to pull and measure the mounting depth of the arch speakers.... 3" even. I'm thinking the JL Audio speakers will fit. The depth of all the others will fit any speaker.

Where did you get the power from for the 110 outlet in the bilge? That's on my to-do list too. Thnx
Click to expand...

I didnt have one either and ran one off of the outdoor fridge - pretty easy
 
Speeder37 said:
Recently purchased 2005 420 DA. Have been going through all systems the last couple of days and catching things the surveyor did not.
My issue is that my lower cockpit lights as well as my stair led lights do not work. There is power going to and from both switches but no lights.
There is an extra wire on the lower right part of the switch that has no power regardless of what position the switch is in. The wire is pictured.
Has anyone run into anything similar? Not easy chasing wires in a boat.
Any ideas would really be appreciated.
Regards,
Matt
Click to expand...
So I went through the same process when I got my 2003. The cockpit lights and step lights each are a little quirky. They do not operate like a light in the home that can be turned on or off from either switch. The COCKPIT switch at the cabin stairs has to be on, then the Switch at the transom will turn the lights in the lower cockpit on or off. With the Steps it is the STEP switch in the forward stateroom that has to be on for the STEP switch at the cabin stairs to work. I also got hung up on the GFCI locations after my surveyor could not get a bunch of random electrical stuff to come on. I hope that helps. There was one in the aft head cabinet that was thrown.
 
Captsteve427 said:
I did get to pull and measure the mounting depth of the arch speakers.... 3" even. I'm thinking the JL Audio speakers will fit. The depth of all the others will fit any speaker.

Where did you get the power from for the 110 outlet in the bilge? That's on my to-do list too. Thnx
Click to expand...
I put JL Audio’s with no depth problems.
 
Chuck Heaton said:
So I went through the same process when I got my 2003. The cockpit lights and step lights each are a little quirky. They do not operate like a light in the home that can be turned on or off from either switch. The COCKPIT switch at the cabin stairs has to be on, then the Switch at the transom will turn the lights in the lower cockpit on or off. With the Steps it is the STEP switch in the forward stateroom that has to be on for the STEP switch at the cabin stairs to work. I also got hung up on the GFCI locations after my surveyor could not get a bunch of random electrical stuff to come on. I hope that helps. There was one in the aft head cabinet that was thrown.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Chuck. Have the boat under shrink wrap this minute after shipping. Will launch in a 3 or 4 weeks and give that a try.
 
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