420 DA Thread

I had the same problem on my 05 Sundancer and replaced 3 out of 4 of the solenoids over the ownership of the boat.
They are easy to change and when I did the last one 4 years ago about $385.00.
 
I had the same problem on my 05 Sundancer and replaced 3 out of 4 of the solenoids over the ownership of the boat.
They are easy to change and when I did the last one 4 years ago about $385.00.
Do you know the model # ? Don’t dig too deep but would like to get an order in. I think I’ll change all of them now since they are old and one would wreck a day like it just did. Thanks
 
I had this issue last season. I ended up doing a number of things. You can check over in the 400/410 forum under my name. These boats are similar mechanically, and I look at this thread occasionally for useful info.

1. Replaced solenoids - there is an old and new style solenoids. You can buy from ZF or possibly Sbmar.com. Yup about 400 each.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/zf-electric-shift-solenoids.90529/

2. I rebuilt the shift system from the levers, all the way back to the valves replacing corroded wire switches and connectors as I went. I had bought the micro switches and they are inexpensive. You can also buy the parts as an assembly, but a little more $.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/micro-switch-for-transmission-shift.90308/#post-1022990

Have you serviced the fluid lately? If so make sure the filter and o rings are properly installed, in the right orientation, not cut, and the cap is properly tightened. All those things can allow the trans to suck air and it will lose pressure and fall out of gear. Check that first...it free/cheap.

Dave
 
I had this issue last season. I ended up doing a number of things. You can check over in the 400/410 forum under my name. These boats are similar mechanically, and I look at this thread occasionally for useful info.

1. Replaced solenoids - there is an old and new style solenoids. You can buy from ZF or possibly Sbmar.com. Yup about 400 each.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/zf-electric-shift-solenoids.90529/

2. I rebuilt the shift system from the levers, all the way back to the valves replacing corroded wire switches and connectors as I went. I had bought the micro switches and they are inexpensive. You can also buy the parts as an assembly, but a little more $.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/micro-switch-for-transmission-shift.90308/#post-1022990

Have you serviced the fluid lately? If so make sure the filter and o rings are properly installed, in the right orientation, not cut, and the cap is properly tightened. All those things can allow the trans to suck air and it will lose pressure and fall out of gear. Check that first...it free/cheap.

Dave
Great and thanks. I decided this morning to do it all. The difference in my model from yours is the shifters command electronic boxes in the starboard side behind a courtesy panel. These boxes send a signal to the solenoids. Could be the pickup at shifter, could be one of those boxes, could be a solenoid or could be a bad wire from ??? Regardless, it’s all 15 years old and I’m not going to ruin another day so I’ll replace everything from lever to transmissions. The oil is near new and the filters are clean. They have been clean every time I have checked. Then I’ll wait for something else to fail. Best guess, within the next 6 months outside of the engines and hopefully trannys, nothing else will be that old in mechanical stuff. I’ve already restored about all else that has electronics or physically moves.
 
Great and thanks. I decided this morning to do it all. The difference in my model from yours is the shifters command electronic boxes in the starboard side behind a courtesy panel. These boxes send a signal to the solenoids. Could be the pickup at shifter, could be one of those boxes, could be a solenoid or could be a bad wire from ??? Regardless, it’s all 15 years old and I’m not going to ruin another day so I’ll replace everything from lever to transmissions. The oil is near new and the filters are clean. They have been clean every time I have checked. Then I’ll wait for something else to fail. Best guess, within the next 6 months outside of the engines and hopefully trannys, nothing else will be that old in mechanical stuff. I’ve already restored about all else that has electronics or physically moves.
 
Sorry I, gave the new owner my file on the boat. I bought them from Precision in Fort Myers 888-343-8912.
You can test this by removing the solenoid from the shifter and pop it into gear by pulling up and twisting the knurled post the solenoid actually lifts when working correctly. I also used a volt meter to test the wires going to the solenoid. When diagnosing mine I switched the two solenoids and the problem switched from not going forward to not going into reverse.
I don't think these systems have micro switches like mentioned above.
 
Sorry I, gave the new owner my file on the boat. I bought them from Precision in Fort Myers 888-343-8912.
You can test this by removing the solenoid from the shifter and pop it into gear by pulling up and twisting the knurled post the solenoid actually lifts when working correctly. I also used a volt meter to test the wires going to the solenoid. When diagnosing mine I switched the two solenoids and the problem switched from not going forward to not going into reverse.
I don't think these systems have micro switches like mentioned above.
I really appreciate the support. Thanks for that. Best forum!
 
I realized after posting my response I was not totally clear on the diagnostic procedure. I actually switched the valves along with the solenoids. When they were out I noticed there was a small screen in the valves with small particles in the valve causing the problem. After cleaning with brake cleaner it actually worked for a while but eventually failed again which led me to replacement.
 
I had this issue also with my port transmission. The wires in the bilge that connect to the solenoid had failed. The actual connection points in the butt connectors. I cut the old butt connectors out and installed new connectors and never had a problem since..... Total cost .10 and 30 minutes labor...
 
I had this issue also with my port transmission. The wires in the bilge that connect to the solenoid had failed. The actual connection points in the butt connectors. I cut the old butt connectors out and installed new connectors and never had a problem since..... Total cost .10 and 30 minutes labor...
How did you determine this? Did you check with a volt light or? I hope that is all it is but I am suspect of the 15 year old components altogether. I looked at the bundle and mine looks like a beehive. I expect everyone else does too. Thanks!
 
How did you determine this? Did you check with a volt light or? I hope that is all it is but I am suspect of the 15 year old components altogether. I looked at the bundle and mine looks like a beehive. I expect everyone else does too. Thanks!

I tugged on the wires I could see coming out of the solenoid and they pulled apart at the connector... So I cut the ends for new clean wire and installed heat shrink connectors..
 
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You can check with a test light or volt meter. With the helm shift lever in forward you should get a light on the forward solenoid ect.
 
You can check with a test light or volt meter. With the helm shift lever in forward you should get a light on the forward solenoid ect.
Did this and I finally found the culprit. There is a 3 odd prong connector to the solenoid. One of the pins was not secured in its place. Weird because it would take force usually and with where it’s at it would be hard to touch it. I used a voltmeter after removing both solenoids and with a helper ran the shift lever both forward and backward to get current and finally found it. It is a black plastic (looks like $.50 worth) connector that has guided pin holes. Stupid design for something so important. Thanks to all that chimed in or listened. Great forum and HNY!
 
Did this and I finally found the culprit. There is a 3 odd prong connector to the solenoid. One of the pins was not secured in its place. Weird because it would take force usually and with where it’s at it would be hard to touch it. I used a voltmeter after removing both solenoids and with a helper ran the shift lever both forward and backward to get current and finally found it. It is a black plastic (looks like $.50 worth) connector that has guided pin holes. Stupid design for something so important. Thanks to all that chimed in or listened. Great forum and HNY!

Pics would be great if you have a chance.
 
Pics would be great if you have a chance.
Sorry but caught in the moment and didn’t take pics. Easy to find. It’s the black plastic connector that connects two wires leading out of the “bundle” that go direct to each solenoid. Can’t miss it. Thanks
 
These are the old style solenoid and the associated connector.. Basically a holder for 2 spade connectors. I cut it off and redid with new connectors and wire tied into place.

I tried to buy but they are only available from Germany. I had to spec the connector and spade connectors together, but could find anyone willing to sell less than 1000 pcs lol.

01020189-86C2-495E-A023-67E61D4BB3FD.jpeg
 
Hi all,

I’m looking to run a wire from the dashboard down to the area under the triangle shaped storage just in front of the main electrical panel in the cabinet. I can’t figure out the route that the wire would take, has anybody run a cable length between those two locations that have any tips?

I am assuming there must be a way because that is the same path between the stereo and the remote control for the stereo located at the dashboard.

Thanks!
 
Hi all,

I’m looking to run a wire from the dashboard down to the area under the triangle shaped storage just in front of the main electrical panel in the cabinet. I can’t figure out the route that the wire would take, has anybody run a cable length between those two locations that have any tips?

I am assuming there must be a way because that is the same path between the stereo and the remote control for the stereo located at the dashboard.

Thanks!
Here are a few photos when they ran the remote for my stereo. Take the padding off the rear bulkhead remove panel by central vac and run wire under stairs.
 

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