420/44 DB Owners Club

Thanks guys, was hoping to get some feedback from those with the 420 DB hull as I know the transom may have less real estate. For example when comparing a friends 42DA, he has more vertical rise at the transom. Will have to take a closer look from within the
 
Here is where we installed Seablaze lights on our 420 DB, easy install, plenty of room, 1/2” hole, wired into FreedomLift power unit & works off the lift remote.
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Rounding back to a couple previous post. Here are a couple pics of Rocna 25kg Rocna 33kg on the stock 430DB bow roller. Yes I did grind 3/16” off the outer curve of the 33 as suggested by a earlier post.
Also add me to the list of those who found water under the false floor of the bilge, vacuumed out about 9 gallons☹️
38132D76-99DF-4A39-B2A6-5D2370BE7D5E.jpeg
38132D76-99DF-4A39-B2A6-5D2370BE7D5E.jpeg
38132D76-99DF-4A39-B2A6-5D2370BE7D5E.jpeg
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Rounding back to a couple previous post. Here are a couple pics of Rocna 25kg Rocna 33kg on the stock 430DB bow roller. Yes I did grind 3/16” off the outer curve of the 33 as suggested by a earlier post.
Also add me to the list of those who found water under the false floor of the bilge, vacuumed out about 9 gallons☹️View attachment 77958 View attachment 77958 View attachment 77958 View attachment 77961
as to the water in the false floor, Is there a consensus as to the source of the water collecting there. Im going to cut a hole in mine in the morning to see if I have water in there too.
CD
 
as to the water in the false floor, Is there a consensus as to the source of the water collecting there. Im going to cut a hole in mine in the morning to see if I have water in there too.
CD

Rusty,
My guess would be either rain water or plumbing leaks. I had a stringer with fresh water in it when I bought my boat. Turned out I had some dripping female connectors and the shower mixer in the master head would leak pretty good when in use. I cut the same hole in front of the washer and removed 6-8 gallons of water, fixed the leaks, and never had it come back.

Just my $0.02....

Bennett
 
I inherited a leaking connection to the master head shower mixer valve from the previous owner also, not sure if that made its way to the back. Bennett when looking inside the stringer is it unrestricted from front to back? I also find water under both the waste tank & water heater after washing or rain, anyone have any ideas of a possible source for that? False floor has remained dry for past 3 weeks since being sucked out.

Steve
 
I inherited a leaking connection to the master head shower mixer valve from the previous owner also, not sure if that made its way to the back. Bennett when looking inside the stringer is it unrestricted from front to back? I also find water under both the waste tank & water heater after washing or rain, anyone have any ideas of a possible source for that? False floor has remained dry for past 3 weeks since being sucked out.

Steve

Not sure how far aft it runs, but the front end of the stringer is 3’ or so in front of the washer. I had water around my HWH at one time due to leaky connections from the hoses. The ER air vents are just in front of the HWH and waste tank. Maybe need recaulking? I would have someone simulate washing with a water hose and go inside to see what I could see. Leaks can be tough to find.

Bennett
 
I inherited a leaking connection to the master head shower mixer valve from the previous owner also, not sure if that made its way to the back. Bennett when looking inside the stringer is it unrestricted from front to back? I also find water under both the waste tank & water heater after washing or rain, anyone have any ideas of a possible source for that? False floor has remained dry for past 3 weeks since being sucked out.

Steve

I had water running through the ER like a broken water line during a hard Florida rain. The PO removed the calk from the ER intakes during a detail and after re-calking, the boat is bone dry after a wash or rain. This is the water that entered the false floor through defects in the fiberglass that bonds the floor to the hull and was around the water heater and holding tank,also corroding the shore power boxes on the starboard side. I also had a cracked engine intake strainer and a/c strainer that the surveyor missed contributing to the flood.
 
On a different subject, I am in the process of upgrading my stereo from the original Clarion CMD4 to the Fusion MS-755AV. The Fusion unit showed up DOA so I'm in the process of getting a replacement. As I was installing it and trouble shooting the IN-Op condition I found that the stereo CB switch in the Main DC panel doesn't switch anything on or off. There is voltage to the Stereo full time, even when both Battery contactor switches are off. I have not had a chance to dig deeply into the harness but I thought I'd see if any of you 44DB folks have the same issue. It has never been a problem but it just does not make sense to me. I can see why one of the two power wires would need power full time to keep the memory and clock going but the stereo master breaker should shut down the power to the amps ECT.
Appreciate any experience you guys may have on this.
CD
 
On a different subject, I am in the process of upgrading my stereo from the original Clarion CMD4 to the Fusion MS-755AV. The Fusion unit showed up DOA so I'm in the process of getting a replacement. As I was installing it and trouble shooting the IN-Op condition I found that the stereo CB switch in the Main DC panel doesn't switch anything on or off. There is voltage to the Stereo full time, even when both Battery contactor switches are off. I have not had a chance to dig deeply into the harness but I thought I'd see if any of you 44DB folks have the same issue. It has never been a problem but it just does not make sense to me. I can see why one of the two power wires would need power full time to keep the memory and clock going but the stereo master breaker should shut down the power to the amps ECT.
Appreciate any experience you guys may have on this.
CD

Can check this out this weekend....

Bennett
 
Rounding back to a couple previous post. Here are a couple pics of Rocna 25kg Rocna 33kg on the stock 430DB bow roller. Yes I did grind 3/16” off the outer curve of the 33 as suggested by a earlier post.
Also add me to the list of those who found water under the false floor of the bilge, vacuumed out about 9 gallons☹️View attachment 77958 View attachment 77958 View attachment 77958 View attachment 77961
On my spring list of things to do. Were you going to add a removable inspection plate like Brian did on his?
 
On my spring list of things to do. Were you going to add a removable inspection plate like Brian did on his?

I have already added one inspection plate to the stringer in front of the washer. Will add my second one between engines on Saturday. Cut the first with a jig saw and will do same on this one. As I know I had FW leaks, I suspect I will find water there as well.

Bennett
 
I have already added one inspection plate to the stringer in front of the washer. Will add my second one between engines on Saturday. Cut the first with a jig saw and will do same on this one. As I know I had FW leaks, I suspect I will find water there as well.

Bennett
Bennett, do you mean on the floor under the stairs? I can see where it would be difficult to see under this space if you have a washer. Mine does not (yet) so I was able to remove it easily to clean under it.
 
...when looking inside the stringer is it unrestricted from front to back?

I am pretty confident the engine bulkhead / firewall completely blocks that channel.

Inside the space under the false floor in the ER there are vertical strengtheners where the walkway widens, but it doesn't extend all the way to the hull, so water has the full run from the fore to aft bilge areas.

Here is the construction detail (shown inverted):
upload_2019-12-20_10-55-45.png


This is a picture of the lateral strengthener (P098), looking forward from the access hole cut near the aft bilge:

upload_2019-12-20_10-53-9.png


Here is a plan view showing the ER bulkhead / firewall and the forward floor assembly:
upload_2019-12-20_10-59-20.png


I have a 6-page PDF with the details if anyone wants it. PM me with an email address...

Brian
 
Bennett, do you mean on the floor under the stairs? I can see where it would be difficult to see under this space if you have a washer. Mine does not (yet) so I was able to remove it easily to clean under it.

Open the steps and I placed it just to the starboard side of the sump. You can see it below.

Insp Plate.jpg


Bennett
 
On a different subject, I am in the process of upgrading my stereo from the original Clarion CMD4 to the Fusion MS-755AV. The Fusion unit showed up DOA so I'm in the process of getting a replacement. As I was installing it and trouble shooting the IN-Op condition I found that the stereo CB switch in the Main DC panel doesn't switch anything on or off. There is voltage to the Stereo full time, even when both Battery contactor switches are off. I have not had a chance to dig deeply into the harness but I thought I'd see if any of you 44DB folks have the same issue. It has never been a problem but it just does not make sense to me. I can see why one of the two power wires would need power full time to keep the memory and clock going but the stereo master breaker should shut down the power to the amps ECT.
Appreciate any experience you guys may have on this.
CD
Hey Carp, On my 44DB there were two hot lines feeding the stereo. One had a 1 amp fuse on it and it was always hot, it was for keeping the stereo memory active. The other had a bigger fuse on it and was switched by the DC panel. I added an inexpensive fuse block from Amazon and connected it to the switched circuit so that I could more easily add accessories (this cheap fuse block may not be good for a salty environment).

upload_2019-12-22_14-31-6.png
 
Okay, Christmas is past and I hope all of you CSRers had the Christmas you hoped for. My wife and I had a quiet Christmas Eve and then drove 50 miles to a small family gathering and feasted on roast beast with all the fixin's and then got to escape back to the peace and tranquility of the homestead. Tomorrow I continue the task of removing for service, the seawater side of the cooling system. I already did the starboard engine and just have a few odds and ends to put back together before tearing into the port engine. When it came to draining the coolant from the engine I saw no option due to the petcock location to just letting the coolant drop into the bilge under the engine and pumping in out from there. Has anyone with the QSCs come up with a more intelligent process? I'm considering replacing the OEM petcocks with 1/4 inch ball valves and hoses to connect to a transfer pump. I've been dreading this overdue project (HX, Aftercooler, fuel and oil XHs descaling) but its actually not that bad of a job. I have no record of the system ever being opened and if it were not for spent broken off Zincs left do decay, the cores would have been clean as a whistle. I learned a valuable lesson. When replacing the zincs annually if the plug comes out without a zinc attached ALWAYS remove the end caps and get those dead zincs out.
Carpe Diem
 

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