420/44 DB Owners Club

Ok, thanks to everyone for the advice. Just pull the fixture away from the ceiling and plug and play?
Good luck, i will say it started easy and got progressively harder when you enter the salon. All of the berths and heads went fine. Salon and valance (switch) area are the worst. I left the two above the stove as they would not budge.

Also note i replace the large domes in the cockpit with the same bulb (takes 2 each). That was another fun one to remove.
 
Ok, thanks to everyone for the advice. Just pull the fixture away from the ceiling and plug and play?

The ceiling fixtures, except in the heads, pull straight down. There are arms on springs that you need to pull against. Once you have the fixture down, you need to disassemble it a little (at least on mine, it was necessary). You remove two spring ties and then things kind of fall apart. The reflector comes away from the bezel (not shown), and also from the socket:

upload_2019-4-8_13-23-23.png


The fixtures in the heads were a little tough (again, on my boat). It was required to turn the bezel / trim ring about a quarter turn and pull straight down. The problem is, it's not obvious when to stop turning, and the bezel doesn't release on it's own. It's also hard to get a hold of. I used a universal strap wrench.

For the reading lights on my boat, the entire barrel portion of the fixture unscrews, leaving just the socket and reflector. It was possible to change the bulb without any further disassembly:

upload_2019-4-8_13-30-56.png


Hopefully this helps!
 
The ones in my head were same as the others. They likely changed some from ‘07 to ‘08. The ones in front the two closests in the master SR were the toughest and the ones against the vinyl were easier than ones in the salon mounted in the wood trim. I used a disc style in my cockpit lights. My reading lights also have the “barrel” that unscrews. The LEDs are somewhat brighter than the original halogen bulbs. I really line them. I put a different style in the bilge that is also brighter.

I used an old credit card to work under the lip of the fixtures. A plastic Sheetrock knife would work better as it would be a little more stiff. By the time the springs snap on your fingers a few times, you will learn how to avoid them....

Bennett
 
I know this is an old thread, but I'm about to make the painful crawl to replace the leaking fittings on my Kahlenberg horn, so I have a couple of questions:
  1. When changing the connector, I can see how the little collar just pulls out which allows the tube to easily separate from the connector, do you use any sort of pipe sealant/grease to help make the seal when you reconnect?
  2. Do you typically trim the hose so it has a fresh connection point?
Thanks,
Scott
FWIW, it turned out that my air tank had developed a pinhole leak from moisture in the compressed air. had to replace the tank. Might want to give yours a careful examination.
 
Adding some 12v components in the stereo cabinet (sat TV and bluetooth transmitter). I don't see a DC bus or fuse block in the cabinet area. I only see a negative bus on the bulkhead wall. Where do you guys hook up additional 12v DC items in the stereo cabinet?
 
FWIW, it turned out that my air tank had developed a pinhole leak from moisture in the compressed air. had to replace the tank. Might want to give yours a careful examination.

Good thought on the tank, moisture does tend to makes its way into the tank over time. The replacement connector just snaps in then push the air line into it. Did not want to crimp the air hose so used rose punning shears when snipping off a little for a clean hose end.
 
Next item to check of the list is to survey and possibly replace the belt on the motors this weekend. Any tips or tricks? At a glance it looks pretty tight to get to.
 
Just use your 1/2" ratchet drive. Caution: It has to be in the proper orientation when you pull the belt off. You'll know you did it incorrectly when your fingers get pinched. All in all, VERY easy job.
 
Hi everyone, found these on my 2008 44 Sedan Bridge and have no idea what they are ... Has anyone come across these guys in their travels? Thanks.
 

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They are screwed to the side of each of the bunks in the mid-stateroom. There are short pieces that fit into the slots and then there are flat pieces that span the gap between the bunks that hold the center cushion. All this turns the bunks into a queen bed.

B253CD38-F17E-4E64-A479-567761376579.jpeg
Bennett
 
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They are screwed to the side of each of the bunks in the mid-stateroom. There are short pieces that fit into the slots and then there are flat pieces that span the gap between the bunks that hold the center cushion. All this turns the bunks into a queen bed.

View attachment 68454 Bennett
Many Thanks Bennett.
 
Found out the hard way that water will pool to the aft section of the bilge below the dryer if there is a leak. The dank stale odor that results from the sitting water was unbearable. To the point where I thought something crawled into the vents and died. The spilled water was a result of work I did on the water pump but should a undetected leak from the washer or a fitting I’m sure the water would sit and produce the foul odor. Has anyone else run into this?
 
My original fit Norcold DE-0061 fridge/freezer finally gave up the ghost this week and I’m now on the hunt for a replacement.

I’d really appreciate any advice, recommendations or experiences, good or bad, that you can share ...
 
With this being a new-to-us boat I have a long list of mtce items to work thru and establish my own baseline. This past weekend was the duck bill valves ... Port side went pretty smoothly but I could only get the last two (in the outflow line after the pump) on the starboard side - and I did that by crawling around behind the generator. There was no way I could contort to reach and undo the screw clamp coming from the tank ahead of the vacuum pump. Is there any trick to being able to undo it? Only option I could see was to remove the exhaust tube to free up enough space. Hoping someone has the magic formula.
 

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