420/44 DB Owners Club

Irie308 said:
View attachment 66692 New polycarbonate panels installed today with removable U insets.
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You say removable U-insets. So the panels are hard and the inserts zip out. Do you store them snapped up to the ceiling or take them out completely? I am curious because my boat has strataglass in the front panels but back panels are still just isenglass. I have 2 roll up panels in the back and it would be nice when it is time to replace it to go with hard panels for visibility but I would still need to remove them to get air.
 
Jeremygavin said:
You say removable U-insets. So the panels are hard and the inserts zip out. Do you store them snapped up to the ceiling or take them out completely? I am curious because my boat has strataglass in the front panels but back panels are still just isenglass. I have 2 roll up panels in the back and it would be nice when it is time to replace it to go with hard panels for visibility but I would still need to remove them to get air.
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Yes, the U’s are completely removable. He gave me the ability to snap the front and rear U’s to the arch or remove completely. The sides don’t have snaps.
 
Irie308 said:
Yes, the U’s are completely removable. He gave me the ability to snap the front and rear U’s to the arch or remove completely. The sides don’t have snaps.
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Thanks That’s a good solution to be able to use the hard material in the back.
 
Irie308 said:
Wondering what most have done for communication between the bridge and salon. I was thinking about installing a second station to my ray260 with the passive speaker to make use of the intercom option as well as having a radio handy in the salon.
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When I looked into this, the products that I came across looked too bulky and not attractive to say the least. A 2nd VHF crossed my mind, but seemed like an overkill and I wasn't too thrilled mounting it in the galley or salon.

So far, the easiest solution I found is simply call or text. Since we're mostly in cell covered areas, it works fine.
 
B9DA2F35-5D8A-4592-B7A3-A6527BB7EF50.png
We have the second station ICOM I don’t think it’s bulky I don’t even notice it any longer. It works perfect as an intercom and it’s a convenient VHF right near the salon door if your in the cockpit and need a Radio.
 
Irie308 said:
In the process of updating my electronics and wanted to take this opportunity to swap out the Burl Wood panels to something different. Can anyone confirm whether or not the 2 main panels in the dash are the same for the 04-07 42/44 DB? I believe they are from what i can tell. Seems they were the same on the 420 DA of the same vintage as well.
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Just wandering through the thread and came across your dash panel question. Are you still looking? I used Tecnografic out of Ft. Lauderdale. Not only were they matched perfectly, they custom cut them for my new electronics. https://www.tecnografic.com/
 
Scott Walker said:
Just wandering through the thread and came across your dash panel question. Are you still looking? I used Tecnografic out of Ft. Lauderdale. Not only were they matched perfectly, they custom cut them for my new electronics. https://www.tecnografic.com/
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Ended up purchasing from FP they were the same.
 
The headliner at the bow end of the master has a little sag to it. Seems as if a screw or something came loose on both sides. I don't want to pull on it and make it worse but i can't seem to find how it is supposed to be attached at the corners. Has anyone had to address this or did any work to the headliner?
headliner.jpg
 
Was searching the thread for the answer, but lost patience. Can anyone tell me the size of the LED's that are used in the interior of the boat?
Thanks
 
Do you mean what LED retrofit bulbs to use in place of the G4 halogen bulbs that are used?

If so, I used Lunasea G4 back-pin bulbs (around 30 of them!), and they fit both the recessed fixtures as well as the reading light fixtures (http://www.lunasealighting.com/products/detail/g4-back-pin-0.9-23mm-led-light/led-replacement-bulbs).

Very bright and I could not tell the difference between the halogen bulbs and the LEDs. They also make a larger, brighter one that I tried as well. I put one in the companionway, and two inside the master stateroom door. They are too bright for some locations.

I would like to be able to dim the ones in the main salon...not sure if these are dimmable though.
 
searay495 said:
Do only the flat disc ones fit?
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No. I tried out a few cheaper ones, one which was shaped like an actual G4 halogen bulb, and I preferred the light distribution from the disc. There were fewer shadows with the disc, they were brighter and at the same time lower power (more efficient = less heat), and I could hear a high-pitched whine from one of the cheap bulbs.

I have also read LED bulbs can cause VHF radio interference so I thought perhaps purpose-built bulbs (are they really? who knows!) may reduce this possibility. Certainly improperly designed power supplies can cause the audible and RF interference that some of these bulbs are guilty of.

I have had no VHF problems so far...
 
SeasNT said:
Turns out Kahlenberg sells a $27 connector replacement kit that should take care of my air tank leaks. Must be a common issue. Their support team is great.
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I know this is an old thread, but I'm about to make the painful crawl to replace the leaking fittings on my Kahlenberg horn, so I have a couple of questions:
  1. When changing the connector, I can see how the little collar just pulls out which allows the tube to easily separate from the connector, do you use any sort of pipe sealant/grease to help make the seal when you reconnect?
  2. Do you typically trim the hose so it has a fresh connection point?
Thanks,
Scott
 
Ok, thanks to everyone for the advice. Just pull the fixture away from the ceiling and plug and play?
 
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