420/44 DB Owners Club

Has anyone had to replace the screen door on their 420? A buddy just purchased a 2005 420 that has no screen door installed. He is looking for info on finding one and info on what's involved in getting it installed. Looks like you need to remove the glass slider as the screen is mounted on the inside of the slider assembly. Anyone had to replace theirs?
 
Carpe Diem,

I had to have my screen door removed; my wife tried to walk through it too many times. A friend of mine removed it for me, but he reported that it was a real pain to get it off. If I remember correctly, he had to remove the sliding glass door.

If you need a replacement, you can get one direct from Taylor Made. $1,500. Contact Terra Meher, tmeher@taylormadesystems.com.

John
 
Alex,

Thanks for your reply; sorry it took so long to acknowledge your help. For the sake of building out this thread in case some one else has my problems, I am going to close the loop on both of my issues.

First, the water leak issue. My original post was not clear. The leak was coming from the aft rope locker. I tried closing the "rope locker" valve on the water manifold, but it did not stop the leak. I am speculating that that valve is for the forward rope locker only.

So, after saying a few Hail Mary's, I removed the screws holding the port access panel in the aft rope locker in place. As suspected there was a small leak coming from a two-foot hose that connects the dockside water inlet to the main water line. This leak had obviously occurred years ago, as there was a 18-inch long "patch" using what appeared to be electrical tape. I removed the tape and recoiled the hose with some waterproof contact tape (my neighbor called it "rescue" tape). It seemed to do the trick, but after letting it all stand for about an hour, a slow drip leak returned. So, I put the access panel back in place and began to source a replacement part.

Sourcing the replacement hose was challenging. I needed a 2-foot, 2" hose with smaller female connections on both ends. Couldn't find it on the various Sea Ray parts sources I have used in the past. Ended up getting a 3-foot version from an RV parts site, installed it on Friday and it works perfectly.

With regard to my sliding door latch/lock issue, I first started with a Sea Ray dealer in Michigan City who has a local reputation for reliable sourcing. Their only solution was to replace the entire door for a measly $3,500! With a little more digging I was able to go to the OEM themselves - Taylor Made. They can get me the entire mechanism for about $650 - part number 5101210; http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/parts/doorLocks/index.html.

Sorry for the novel. I am just trying to document content that someone else might be able to use and save time.

John
 
Johnny1954 said:
Carpe Diem,

I had to have my screen door removed; my wife tried to walk through it too many times. A friend of mine removed it for me, but he reported that it was a real pain to get it off. If I remember correctly, he had to remove the sliding glass door.

If you need a replacement, you can get one direct from Taylor Made. $1,500. Contact Terra Meher, tmeher@taylormadesystems.com.

John
Click to expand...
Thanks John. I'll pass it along. I've walked into mine several times but so far managed to not destroy it!
 
My Smartcraft system view SC5000 display is starting to fade. The "system view" model is specific to the 420DB's that have cummins 480CE. In 2006 when Searay introduced the Quantum series cummins the display went to "vessel view" After some research I understand I will lose fuel flow function if I switch to "vessel view" model.
Has anyone sucessfully switch out their smartcraft "system view"and still maintained fuel flow? If so, I am looking for recommendations.
Also, if anyone has a old SC5000 "system view" they would like to sell please contact me at smokeymack@aol.com
 
Greetings,

We previously owned a 340DA and loved it. Our current boat is for sale, and we are going back to a SR.

We have narrowed down our search to either the 44, 450, or 470 sedan bridge. Love the layout, engine choices, and many other aspects. This will be our first bridge. I have avoided them in the past due to cranky knees and backs my wife and I have, but we are going to give it a shot.

I started reading this thread last week, and plan on going through the entire string over the next month. Great info.

A few questions;

Are all of the above noted models built with straight drives?

On the 44DB, is there room to replace the OEM frig unit with an isotherm reefer on top and freezer below?

Does Sea Ray have archived drawings I can access showing the layout and vertical position of the exhaust riser off the Turbo in relation to the waterline? I am not questioning it, and I know they have done this successfully for years, I just wanted to visually see the drawing.

Thanks in advance.
 
Swimmer said:
A few questions;

Are all of the above noted models built with straight drives?

On the 44DB, is there room to replace the OEM frig unit with an isotherm reefer on top and freezer below?

Does Sea Ray have archived drawings I can access showing the layout and vertical position of the exhaust riser off the Turbo in relation to the waterline? I am not questioning it, and I know they have done this successfully for years, I just wanted to visually see the drawing..
Click to expand...

I think I can answer one of my questions. I was originally focused on the 44, and added the 450 and 470 recently. To clarify:

44; straight drives only.

450 and 470; are pods only?

I know there is a big debate on shafts verses drives on boating websites, so I don't want to open up that can of worms. Whatever works for folks, is cool with me.

Personally, I want to stick with shafts, so if my comments above are correct, it looks like I will keep my focus solely on the 44.
 
techmitch said:
Not sure of the years or your budget, but the 47 DB with galley up and to aft, is bad ass!
I believe "Footballfan" and at least 1 other member have had one.
Click to expand...

Agree, we saw pictures of those on line, but never been on one. The Admiral and I both loved that galley up layout. My concern was that model was also built with either pods or possibly V drives, not entirely sure, and I really want to stay with a straight drive shaft engine configuration.
 
yes 47db is vdrive - thats how they get the HUGE mid ship master......not sure about the 45db.....that may be the pod boat.....
 
Has anyone removed the starboard side couch in the salon? I believe it is bolted down? Were you able to put in a different one, and bolt it back in without too much trouble?

Also, I understand the are zero back recliners, so they don't need much room. I was hoping to put one in if it will fit.
 
Has anyone been involved in or had to have their Cummins 480CE engine removed for repair from their 420?
We are trying to get an idea as to the scope of the job in terms of labor hours for the R&R. The boat yard a friend is using is quite competent and experienced in Searay heavy MX but they have never had occasion to pull a Cummins from a 420. They have removed gassers from 400s but this is a different animal. I have read some posts about guys who dropped seats and had repairs done. We are looking for any body that can shed some light on the subject and perhaps profer some advice to help avoid undue stress thru this ordeal.
Thanks
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Thanks John. I'll pass it along. I've walked into mine several times but so far managed to not destroy it!
Click to expand...

I had to remove my screen when someone walked through it and bent up the frame. I wrote a thread on it several years ago. Bottom line, you need to remove both panels of the slider. One is easy, one is not. I ended up using a dremel to cut a small notch in hidden corner of the fixed panel to get it to slide over a notch in the track. Seems non-intuitive but I could not find another way. If I had to do again it would only take about an hour.
 
sb in gp said:
I had to remove my screen when someone walked through it and bent up the frame. I wrote a thread on it several years ago. Bottom line, you need to remove both panels of the slider. One is easy, one is not. I ended up using a dremel to cut a small notch in hidden corner of the fixed panel to get it to slide over a notch in the track. Seems non-intuitive but I could not find another way. If I had to do again it would only take about an hour.
Click to expand...
Thanks SB, I'm going to pull my screen out to put heavy duty pet proof screen in it an also have the door duplicated for my friend with the above mentioned engine woes. Since he will have his slider out for engine repair he can install his screen door. Someone in the past removed it.
Cheers
 
Just wanted to post a quick picture of the new Infinity Woven Vinyl in my 420 Sedan Bridge. Can’t express how happy I am with the product and snapincarpet.com. Snap-in-Carpet had the template for my boat in stock and did a fantastic job on cutting and binding my new carpeting. I haven't installed the snaps yet but, the fit is perfect.

IWV.jpg
 
I'm sold!
I've seen some new yachtscwith similar woven carpet that had some pretty bad wrinkles in it. This seems to lay pretty flat. Very sharp.
 
sb in gp said:
Thanks Keith. How much did it cost to have the deck done? Did you do upstairs too?

Scott
Click to expand...

$2,300 for cockpit, bridge and a snap installation tool. They even tossed in the Sea Ray mat for free.
 
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