420/44 DB Owners Club

Alex,

Some really good news.

Went to the boat yesterday afternoon after work. Just like you recommended, I opened up the two access panels on the port side to see what you were talking about. It was pretty much as you said - there is a way to snake a cable down into the lower access area, and then forward.

After mulling things over, I thought, "What the heck", open up the starboard side and see if things are the same. I had to remove the starboard side and aft back bolsters from the bridge sofa as well as one of the struts that supported the bolster housing. This gave me the flexibility needed to get at the two starboard access panels.

I removed the top one and quickly realized the old adage: "Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good". What I found in this compartment was the other end of the connector to the antenna cable that I removed. (the "unexpected" problem in my original post was the fact that I unintentionally pulled a splice cable apart when I was trying to test how to pull the coax through the walls). In other words, I didn't have to pull cable. All that needed to be done, I thought, was to remove the connector from the cable I removed from the old antenna, attach it to the cable for the new one, plug it into its mate, and voila. But....

Came home last night on cloud nine. But then it hit me. The new antenna has RG-8X coax, while the old one had RG-58 coax. Don't think you can mix them. So, what to do?

I decided to take the easy way out. I went to West Marine to pick up a replacement antenna that used RG-58. Yes, the one I bought may be a little better, but I just didn't want to expose myself to the risk of having to run the new cable and experience the next chapter of Murphy's Law.

People at West Marine advised that you can connect the two different types of cable. So, used a newly purchased coupler to splice the new RG-8X coax to the RG-58 coax from the old antenna. Then spent another 90 minutes putting my bridge back together again.

Won't know if it all works until we drop in in a few weeks. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again, Alex, for getting me pointed in the right direction.

John
 
Last edited:
Alex,

Some really good news.

Went to the boat yesterday afternoon after work. Just like you recommended, I opened up the two access panels on the port side to see what you were talking about. It was pretty much as you said - there is a way to snake a cable down into the lower access area, and then forward.

After mulling things over, I thought, "What the heck", open up the starboard side and see if things are the same. I had to remove the starboard side and aft back bolsters from the bridge sofa as well as one of the struts that supported the bolster housing. This gave me the flexibility needed to get at the two starboard access panels.

I removed the top one and quickly realized the old adage: "Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good". What I found in this compartment was the other end of the connector to the antenna cable that I removed. (the "unexpected" problem in my original post was the fact that I unintentionally pulled a splice cable apart when I was trying to test how to pull the coax through the walls). In other words, I didn't have to pull cable. All that needed to be done, I thought, was to remove the connector from the cable I removed from the old antenna, attach it to the cable for the new one, plug it into its mate, and voila. But....

Came home last night on cloud nine. But then it hit me. The new antenna has RG-8X coax, while the old one had RG-58 coax. Don't think you can mix them. So, what to do?

I decided to take the easy way out. I went to West Marine to pick up a replacement antenna that used RG-58. Yes, the one I bought may be a little better, but I just didn't want to expose myself to the risk of having to run the new cable and experience the next chapter of Murphy's Law.

People at West Marine advised that you can connect the two different types of cable. So, used a newly purchased coupler to splice the new RG-8X coax to the RG-58 coax from the old antenna. Then spent another 90 minutes putting my bridge back together again.

Won't know if it all works until we drop in in a few weeks. Fingers crossed.

Thanks again, Alex, for getting me pointed in the right direction.

John


John,

I'm glad that my instructions helped you find the "hidden paths". I don't know if you can mix the cables. Anyway, the main thing is that whatever project you have for the bridge, you're all set to run the wires, if necessary.
 
Alex, thanks again. Just an FYI - I reached out to Shakespeare directly and asked them whether or not RG-58 and RG-8X can be spliced together. Here is their response:

John,

You can. 8X is a better low loss cable than the 58, but you can connect them.

Regards,

Matt Stockwell
Technical Sales Support, Shakespeare Marine Electronics
Applied Materials – Newell Brands


As long as I did the splice correctly, I hopefully will be good to go.

Thank you again, Alex. Would not have solved my problem without your help.

John
 
Mystery water in bilge:

I've been chasing a little water in the aft of the bilge since I got the boat (I want a dry bilge dammit!).

I'm in MI and boat is stored indoors in a heated building (going in tomorrow - yay!).

Over the winter I repacked the starboard rudder because I noticed a little water around it in the past.

Here's the mystery:
When I pull the boat I always clean the bilge and shop-vac all the water out so that it dries out during the layup.
This year about a month ago when I was repacking the rudder I noticed there was water in the bilge again, so I vacuumed it out again.
Getting ready to launch last week I crawled to the back of the bilge, and you guessed it - water was there again, so I vacuumed it out again.

I'm trying to figure out where it could be coming from, since the building is dry. My only thought is that the water was held by gravitational vacuum in one of the pump output hoses and it eventually let go. Or my hot water heater or water tank could be leaking?

Thoughts / ideas?

Scott
 
How about just a fresh water line/pump?


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Just guessing but start with the backflow preventer/check valve in the bilge pump line leaking, allowing water to find it's way back to the bilge. To verify, disconnect discharge line from pump, blow the line out with your shop vac, hook it back up and check it in a few days.
 
Does anyone know offhand if the Splendide in the 420 is ventless or vented? My guess is ventless but not on boat at moment. Mine is a Splendide 2000 S. Does not drain. No pump cover in lower front panel despite manufacturer arguing that there is. Tells me to clean and should be okay. Anyway, wanted to price out replacement just in case. Thanks.

Brian
 
Hello all, my wife and I purchased a 2006 44DB in August of 2015 and are having a ball with it. Except for the grounding incident that took a bite out of last summer cruising we have managed to put about 150 hours on her. We recently started cruising with two other 420s and I noticed stark differences in performance. With a little research we found that I have 24/27 props installed on my QSC 8.3 500HD engines and my buddies have 26/27 props. Does anyone else have 24 inch diameter props on their 420s or 44s? The only records I have found is the boat was delivered with 26/27 props. Currently trying to find out how the 24s ended up on the boat.
 
I'm getting some water in the forward bilge (near washer/dryer). There is a plastic drain tube that feeds to that area. Does anyone know where that drain tube originates?

Thanks,

Scott
 
Pretty certain it's your forward stateroom AC drip pan hose.
 
Sump over flow also goes in that direction. When mine is dirty and the float is jammed up I sometimes see spillage/overflow heading there when underway. Ends up just below washer. Did your bilge alarm go off?
 
Guys, I have two questions:

1. Have you ever had to replace the sliding door latching mechanism? If so, could you point me in the right direction for acquiring the replacement part(s), and give me any advice you have to help make this project successful?

2. I have a slow leak coming from, I believe, the supply line to the rope locker wash down faucet. I am still studying the user manual, trying to determine if there is a place to just shut off this line. Otherwise, It appears I will have to open up the port-side "wall" inside the rope locker to which the power, cable, dockside water inlet and the suspected problem faucet are attached to. Concerned with how flexible this will be to be able to diagnose, fix my leak and reinstall this "wall" without turning my slow leak into a bigger leak.

As always, I greatly appreciate the wisdom that you all are always willing to share.

John
 
A buddy with an 05 420 says his refrigerator condensate line drains into the center bilge. I have evidence of water sitting in my bilge, but I have yet to get around to investigate it.
 
A plugged AC drain line is what I found on mine. I half filled my forward bilge and almost took out my bow thruster.
 
I installed a remote control system on my 44DB. It controls the transmissions and the thruster only. I bring it into the slip single handed with a small hand held transmitter on a lanyard around my neck standing in the cockpit or swim platform. My bride a crew she is not so I can leave her with her cocktail on the bridge and I can dock the boat without the frustration of having "help". I installed the same one on my buddies 420. It takes about two hours to install and no wires need to be cut. It works on 2.3 Gigahertz so there is no radio interference. I'm thinking of offering DIY kits or even custom installations. The Yacht Controller sells for 8-10 grand plus installation. This system can be installed for less than 20% of the Yacht Controller with the same built in interference and security features. I've operated my boat now for over 100 hrs with this system and have yet to have a problem.
if interested to get more info or are interested in one for your boat PM me.
Happy Yachting
 
No, the system wired in parallel to the electric micro switches on the drive levers and the Bow Thruster joy stick connector plug.
sorry
 
Guys, I have two questions:

..............

2. I have a slow leak coming from, I believe, the supply line to the rope locker wash down faucet. I am still studying the user manual, trying to determine if there is a place to just shut off this line. Otherwise, It appears I will have to open up the port-side "wall" inside the rope locker to which the power, cable, dockside water inlet and the suspected problem faucet are attached to. Concerned with how flexible this will be to be able to diagnose, fix my leak and reinstall this "wall" without turning my slow leak into a bigger leak.

As always, I greatly appreciate the wisdom that you all are always willing to share.

John

John,

To start your troubleshooting, you can turn off the supply to the washdown at the manifold, which is located in the galley's under floor storage. There's a shelf with the master manifold. Look for blue label "Rope Locker". Use the key (usually on a string attached and laying close by) to turn the supply off.
 

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