420/44 DB Owners Club

The genset has it's own exhaust. I asked some other SeaRay owners and the conclusion is that there are more bends in the exhaust hose on the port side so it's a larger diameter to provide the same back pressure.
 
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The genset has it's own exhaust. I asked some other SeaRay owners and the conclusion is that there are more bends in the exhaust hose on the port side so it's a larger diameter to provide the same back pressure.
 
I have a 2005 420 Sedan Bridge, with about 525 hours on its Cummins 480 CE's. Bought it four years ago when it had about 400 +/- hours. It has always had a white exhaust, especially when started, and even more so when the water is colder. I have been told by the dock friends that I need to have the engines serviced at 500 hours, and that this servicing will eliminate the white exhaust. Two questions: do you agree that a 500 hour servicing will improve the volume of white exhaust? About how much should I budget for this service? Friends have estimated anywhere between $1,200 to $5,000 (total for both engines). Thanks for the help.
 
jwestonlee said:
I own a 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. We bought it last August. Today I just noticed that the port and starboard exhaust tubes are different sizes. The port is 8 inch diameter and the starboard is 6 inch diameter. They are slightly different in length 76" vs 64". Anyone know why this is?View attachment 48297
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Jimmy, look'n good!
 
Thought I would jump in.. the 42 is an awesome boat. Coming into my 3rd season from my prior Rinker 39 cruiser ... We are extremely happy with the move to the sedan and diesels
reading everything and jumping right into the maintenance side.
On the cruising side, Amazing view (coming from a cruiser) and stability.

Recent upgrades

2016
stereo . Clarion M606
bridge tv
salon tv
canvas & isoglass
trick - jack lift on platform for dinghy
Bank batteries


2017
electronics.
Raymarine C120 to es127
quantum radar
engine room camera
freshwater wash plugs at strainers
painted engine room

so far all was DIY ..

bit the bullet on some maintenance performed by a mechanic...
Impellers, coolers , exchangers , belts and hoses.
Misc other.... was painful but necessary..

I typically run a day or tw trip every other week looking to take her from Nj to The Chesapeake this summer ..

i am sure that you will really enjoy her.

Congrats.
 
dontworrybehappy said:
edited to add we are the proud new owners of a beautiful 2005 420 sedan bridge! thrilled is putting it mildly ;)
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Congrats on the purchase of a great SR model!
 
I am just finishing up a project that I didn't see a thread on here, so I thought I would share. I removed the old TV/DVD combo unit that is in the front berth and replaced it with a 24" flat screen, and an extra DVD player that I had at home. I connected an HDMI cable with an iPad connection so that we can access DirecTV, Netflix, and rent content using the iTunes Store.

Full disclosure is in order: I am not very good with anything other than the Yellow Pages. So for some of you, this would be a yawner project. Here is what I did:

First, I had to remove the old unit. Relatively easy; there is an access panel inside the port side hanging locker. I removed the wood base from the unit, to be used to build a wall to attach the hanging bracket to.

The cavity that housed the old unit is close to 2 feet deep. I maybe could have skipped building the wall and just used one of those articulating mounts, but I was worried that it would not keep the flat screen secure while we run.

I used three 2x2 pieces of wood to build an outer-edge base for the wall, screwing them to the walls of the cavity. I attached the base of the mounting bracket to the wood base from the old unit, and screwed this "wall" to the 2x2's. I attached the hook arms of the mounting bracket to the flat screen.

I used Velcro tape to secure the DVD and a power strip to the floor of the cavity. I attached the flat screen to the wall, and tightened the stability screws to secure the flat screen to the wall mounting bracket.

As I said, this probably would not have been a big deal for many of you. I am in awe about some of the things you guys tackle. But I wanted to share because I had not seen a thread like this before, and thought maybe I could help others in a small way.

I will attach pictures once I can figure out how to do this; having troubles right now.

Thanks to all who have shared answers to my questions in the past. I truly appreciate your help.

John
 
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dontworrybehappy said:
thank you!! we are loving it! need to replace carpet protectors so am searching the web for that right now! any suggestions?
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My entire boat was custom refit by a local shop. So, I can't recommend a good source based on first hand experience. However, I've seen many references on the forum to http://www.snapincarpets.com/
 
dontworrybehappy said:
thank you!! we are loving it! need to replace carpet protectors so am searching the web for that right now! any suggestions?
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Some of us at CSR have used http://thecanvasmedic.com/ He is also a CSR member. Carpet and carpet runners are something that can be shipped to him as patterns. You also have the opportunity to modify/improve fit by making a new pattern for him. At installation time you would have to install snaps. I had carpet runners done for my boat, they were an exact fit.
 
The salon carpet foam backing is sticking to the floor. When I need pull up the carpets to open the big ER doors I end up with some of the foam backing stuck to the floor, so I'm slowly losing the backing. I was thinking of pulling up the carpets and cleaning and waxing the fiberglass flooring. Anyone else solve this problem?

Scott
 
SB,

We tossed the carpeting. We went to a local carpet store, found a higher quality area rug with approximately the correct dimensions, had them trim to correct size and stitch the edges to prevent fraying. They also gave us a rubber, honeycombed base to put the carpet on to prevent slipping. Works great. Don't have a picture handy, but it has a great, contemporary design. We love it.

The only negative: I removed the female screws from the floor but have not invested in patching the holes left behind. We can live with that.

John
 
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Thanks for the carpet info! We ordered a 6 by 6 rug for the salon and it works great. The stairs going down into galley and the side wall there are in need of a cleaning! I hope to order new carpet protectors for all areas other than salon.
 
Guys,

I could really use your help. The cable for my marine radio's antenna was so brittle its external cover was cracked in a couple places. So I went out and bought a replacement. Snipped the old cable to be able to remove the old antenna and to pull the cable through the radio arch into the cockpit. My plan was to pull the new cable through the radar arch, tape the cords together, and pull the new cable through the wall as I remove the old one. Unfortunately that is not an option due to an unexpected problem.

Has anyone replaced their antenna? If so, how did you get the cable down the lower portion of the radar arch, and then forward to the dashboard? I've removed the Bridge storage cabinet, opened up the side access panel but don't see how to grab the cable from there. Lawnboy came to help me and he cannot figure it out either.

Any ideas?

John
 
Johnny1954 said:
Guys,

I could really use your help. The cable for my marine radio's antenna was so brittle its external cover was cracked in a couple places. So I went out and bought a replacement. Snipped the old cable to be able to remove the old antenna and to pull the cable through the radio arch into the cockpit. My plan was to pull the new cable through the radar arch, tape the cords together, and pull the new cable through the wall as I remove the old one. Unfortunately that is not an option due to an unexpected problem.

Has anyone replaced their antenna? If so, how did you get the cable down the lower portion of the radar arch, and then forward to the dashboard? I've removed the Bridge storage cabinet, opened up the side access panel but don't see how to grab the cable from there. Lawnboy came to help me and he cannot figure it out either.

Any ideas?

John
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John,

You're in luck, as I ran probably miles of wires in my boat and feel like I know every inch of that hull.

Your failed attempt to tape to old wire and pull through is what I would have expected. If it worked, I'd be shocked. It has nothing to do with you doing something wrong, but rather with the way the passages are built. If you look closer to the connecting points of the arch (both side are the same, but look at the PORT side since it's open) and you'll see the access panels. You have to open them both (upper and the lower one). You'll have to use something like an electrical snake. The way the passages are made, from the arch you end up in the aft (back) section of the arch, then you have to get through the first wall, which is horizontal. That's the one you'll see once both panels are off. After you pass the cable from upper section to lower, now you'll have to find a small whole in the vertical wall to go from aft to the forward section towards the helm. Follow the existing wires as a guide through the passages and the wholes in the walls.

Since you removed the storage cabinet, you can use the STBD side for the run. But, you'll have a challenge removing the upper access panel hidden behind the seat. Take your time removing it, or shift the task and go via PORT side. If your VHF antenna is on the STBD, then your cable might be too short doing the run via PORT side. You'll be surprize how much gets wasted with all the zig-zagging.

Have fun. :grin:
 
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