420/44 DB Owners Club

I had to use the oil filter strap wrench to get one ring off. Turning left to loosen.

 

Mine randomly does the same. Now I turn on both engine start switches when I boot up my display then when ready start, and it seems to be fine now.
I thought at one point it had something to do with which motor I started first.

 

Was initially going to tap into the bow thruster and use a dc to dc converter but then realized that I would have to leave the 24v thruster solenoid on every time we wanted to use the tv. Ended up tapping into the light circuit with a small fuse block. Similar to you lights are all led and tv and Roku draws less than 5 amps total. Have considered a fan but can't find a spot that I wouldn't hit my head in the middle of the night so using battery operated ones for now.

 

I’m going out tomorrow so I’ll select the starboard start switch to on (without starting it) to see if the gauges and vv power up

Was concerned it may have something to do with faulty alternators. Seem to remember a previous thread saying you’d never know if one or both have failed..

 

Thanks. Your method worked a treat.

 

Normal. The gauges are called SysLink and are digital. The power and data signal comes from the Vessel View. The Vessel View first has to wake up then the gauges will come alive. Either engine's ignition switch will boot up the VV. So it doesn't really matter which you start first. If one of the ignition switches will not start up the VV then someone has removed the "Wake" wire harness from the system. I always first turn both ignition switches on and let the system boot up before cranking them up. This way the VV will display the engines' health (poll all of the sensors) when they start. Of course, in an emergency where you need to get the engines started you can crank them right up - the VV and gauges will catch up.

 

Just thought I’d share with you all a picture of my boat with the transom module moved back. It actually looks better than I thought.

 

Has anyone replaced the hardwood flooring in the galley and by dinette? I was not sure if factory flooring was nailed down or just glued. Might be better to replace rather than refinish.

 

Windless on 2004 420 wont work. I checked the bilge back wall fuses and no windless reset.
Any Ideas? I am sure its at fuse but after inspecting the whole back firewall- nothing.

 

You need to download one of these: https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/owners-manuals-files/2004_420 Sundancer_420_Sundancer.pdf

 

Problem is with the Deisel , I cant get my fat ass in their very close... So I have to grab randomly behind engine to reset.
Do these breakers pull out...? push down? There are no instructions on any manual on the exact procedure to reset( blindly) ie' Ican feel in the area but cant not get my head around to see as I reach.....
Thoughts.... I know what it looks like ... but push up?.. pull out? push under?

 

There is also a automotive type fuse on the contact coil in the gray box. I think it’s 70amp 12 volt. It blew on me once. I couldn’t find the problem with the windless. My son googled it and found the solution.

 

If you go here you can get your original brochure and spec sheet: https://owners-resources.searayweb.com/recent-models/owners-resources/recent-models/page.aspx/pageid/160625/recent-models-
helper.html?year=2021

I’ve attached an 05’ and 08’

 

Mark, Yes we replaced the flooring in those areas. The dinette portion comes out as one pc, may have some silicone holding it in place & also bolts & screws at base of table leg. Dinette step silicone only. Galley is all on one pc of plywood with a few screws coming up from holds underneath, if I remember correctly I had to break the floor into pcs to get it out of that area.

 

I have a small grey box in ER next to the big black breaker box. I checked the breaker 100 amp windless and no power to either side.? WOUld you look at switch first or is there another recommendation

 

On my boat (a 44 Sedan Bridge, not a Sundancer), the feed side of the windlass breaker comes from the load side of the port battery solenoid (meaning the port batteries must be energized to feed power to the windlass breaker).

If the port battery solenoid is energized, and the port batteries are connected and not completely dead, it seems pretty much impossible for the windlass breaker to not receive power. The switch would energize the windlass solenoid, which is after the windlass breaker in the circuit. As such, if there is no power at the breaker, the switch is not the problem, unless on your boat the breaker and the solenoid order are reversed.

So, tracing the circuit: port battery->port battery solenoid->100A windlass breaker->windlass solenoid->windlass.

My advice would be to work your way from the windlass solenoid towards the battery, looking for voltage at each point in the circuit. Make sure you have a good ground.

It may be worth asking these questions in the thread for your particular boat, the 420 DA thread: 420 DA Thread | Club Sea Ray.

Final note: it's windlass, not windless!

 

On my 420, there was a fusible link on the engine room firewall in front of the starboard engine. If memory serves, it was 200 amps. It is not resettable. If it "blows", well, actually meltes, it has to be replaced.

Here is a picture for reference purposes:
https://www.amazon.com/Inline-holde...ocphy=9008247&hvtargid=pla-473313356386&psc=1

Jaybeaux

 

Thanks for that info. In the 14x 14 grey box in front of the starboard?