420/44 DB Owners Club

Continued...

The seawater flows into the 20 micron and then into the 5 micron pre-filters.

Plumbed.jpg


The blue tube comes from the lift pump and goes into the two filters going right to left. What is nearly impossible to see is the water flow goes from the left side of the two filters to the pump. This is the low pressure side...about 10 psi.

The 110V motor and pump are mounted behind the Starboard exhaust tube:

Motor and Pump.jpg


The high pressure discharge is the top fitting with the red cap. The low pressure inlet is on the bottom in grey. The bracket is the support I made for the RO membranes and is actually behind the motor and pump. I put holes in them just 'cause.
 
Next up is the membranes:

RO Filters.jpg


The inlet and outlets are on the left side. Here is a pic of the support.

Aft Support.jpg
 
From the RO membranes, everything focuses on the control panel (same picture as previous):

Plumbed.jpg


At the very top is a 12V adjuster knob for the low pressure lift pump. At the left is the flow meter, This is a 40 Gal per hour unit. The black face item is the TDS...Total Dissolved Salts. At the bottom, the low pressure and high pressure gauges. The clear hose at the top is the brine discharge.

It goes here...it is teed into the hatch drain.:

Brine Discharge.jpg
 
Yes please do post lots of pictures and comments.
The Seawater Pro is what inplan to install this winter on our boat for our trips to Bahamas. I don’t have an extra through hull and strainer installed for one, so either I need the install one or see if it’s viable to tap into the AC strainer and make it work.
Let us know all thoughts and different approaches you do if starting over. I’m also installing an inverter this winter so I’m trying to figure out the mounting locations for everything.
Thanks!
 
The fresh water discharge heads from the panel across to the area under the cockpit beverage fridge. I pulled the little fridge and drilled a 3/4 inch hole to feed the discharge hose up and from there it heads to the area behind the back of the couch on the Port side and to the hose from the deck fill. It is a little hard to see but this is the back of the couch showing the tee that was put in place for the old watermaker. it also saved a lot of time.

Fresh Into Water Fill.jpg
 
Hey Boaterholic,

How is the purchase going? I hope it is smooth.

You are close to SeaWater Pro in Florida...well closer than we are! it looks like 4 hours away. You could just drive down and pick the unit up. Shipping to us on the diagonal opposite side of the US was not bad.

The install is on the Starboard side and I removed the oil jugs to allow space for the stands for the RO units and the motor/pump.

All the little bits are Home Depot type items such as plumbing parts etc.

Cheers!
 
Interesting placement of through hull and strainer. was thinking best placement would be near the ac through hull.
 
Interesting placement of through hull and strainer. was thinking best placement would be near the ac through hull.

Yeah, I don't know the best placement. It was there so I used it.
 
Anyone know if you can "T" into the AC through hull for the watermaker?
 
Anyone know if you can "T" into the AC through hull for the watermaker?
You can but one or the other can only be run, not both. I tied mine into the Bridge AC raw water supply and have a valve that switches to one or the other. Here is how I did it - big pump is watermaker and small pump is bridge AC. That Apollo valve is a three way and shown in the AC mode.
IMG_5199.jpg
 
Just wondering what fresh water pump everyone is using. I installed a new Jabsco and I noticed when showering in the guest bathroom the water flow from the shower head was pulsing and the lights too were flickering.. Very strange..
 
Anyone know if you can "T" into the AC through hull for the watermaker?
Mine is T’d in without any valves. So far no issues but after being warned of the potential pitfalls I’m closely monitoring…
 
Just wondering what fresh water pump everyone is using. I installed a new Jabsco and I noticed when showering in the guest bathroom the water flow from the shower head was pulsing and the lights too were flickering.. Very strange..

When we had our 44DB, I had the same issue when pump was replaced. Installed a one gallon bladder tank and the system was beautiful again.

Bennett
 
Thinking about T-ing the line from the through hull for the A/C unit. I would have done it had I not had an extra through hull on the boat.

Looking at the amp meter yesterday when running the water maker, the draw was about 10 Amps so you would be putting a lot of load on the side of your A/C system depending on which air conditioning unit you would use.

The SeaWater Pro unit I bought comes with a timer to back flush the system. It worked out pretty slick as there is a fresh water spigot right near the inlet on the timer. I will get a picture of that today.

Cheers
 
When we had our 44DB, I had the same issue when pump was replaced. Installed a one gallon bladder tank and the system was beautiful again.

Bennett
It’s a long shot, but do you have a photo or diagram showing the bladder type and set up? Thx
 
I would think that anywhere in the pressurized part of the system, a bladder would buffer out the spikes in the pressure pump cycle. It makes placement easier as it can be anywhere. Closer to the manifold might make sense as it is in a pretty much central point in the system.

Those are my thoughts...

Cheers!
 
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From the RO membranes, everything focuses on the control panel (same picture as previous):

View attachment 136580

At the very top is a 12V adjuster knob for the low pressure lift pump. At the left is the flow meter, This is a 40 Gal per hour unit. The black face item is the TDS...Total Dissolved Salts. At the bottom, the low pressure and high pressure gauges. The clear hose at the top is the brine discharge.

It goes here...it is teed into the hatch drain.:

View attachment 136581
Saw this at FLIBS. One thing i was not clear on was how are you diverting water to the tank once its within drinkable range?
 
Saw this at FLIBS. One thing i was not clear on was how are you diverting water to the tank once its within drinkable range?
Mine is T’d into the fill line.
 
Saw this at FLIBS. One thing i was not clear on was how are you diverting water to the tank once its within drinkable range?
There is a Reject valve (at least on mine) that switches between the tank and overboard. The system starts up then pressure is increased to 600 PSIG and water is forced through the membrane and dumped overboard. There is a test tap and once the water tests good the Reject valve is switched to the Tank position.
On Bruce Sea's system I can see the pressure regulator, flowmeter, and testing instrument but not the valve to switch between overboard and tank.
 
It’s a long shot, but do you have a photo or diagram showing the bladder type and set up? Thx

First pic is how I have it plumbed. Blue hose is feeding the pressurized side of the system and the braided line goes to the accumulator tank. Its mounted right in front of the washer/dryer

accumulator.jpg
accumulator2 (2).jpg
 

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