420/44 DB Owners Club

That's interesting. My pair of thruster batteries are just on the starboard side of centre, but all starting and house batteries, 6 total, are as far port as possible. That's a total of almost 450lbs of batteries, but only about 150lbs more than factory.
My apologies, I stand corrected .. Thrusters only to stbd (slightly).
 

Attachments

  • 2F5E1156-5DF6-42D7-9776-595C8D4071A8.jpeg
    2F5E1156-5DF6-42D7-9776-595C8D4071A8.jpeg
    116.6 KB · Views: 159
Mine also lists to stbd slightly. I keep my water tank full most of the time. 150 gallons is about 1000 lbs. I have 5 group 31 batteries to port (my 2 thruster batteries are in the hatch in the galley). I typically have more fuel in the port tank. And I keep my 15hp dinghy motor to port as it sits on my swim platform.. All of this comes close to leveling the boat. Unfortunately I think many other systems are stbd biased hence creating that list.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AEO
I too have a slight list but noticed that loading and water tanks help to balance it out. We also mount our rib with the motor to port. I’ve instructed the admiral to load the bulk of our crap (provisions) to port as well. As for the water coming in through the day hatch drain
, it occurs in rough seas as water rushes in through the drain. You can fix this by installing check valves. There is also a thread regarding water getting trapped in the center hollow portion of the bilge. Don’t think this would cause a list though.
Following this thread - ours also has a stbd list (couple inches to balance it out). Certainly moving some weight around can help and when the waste tank is full it's looking more level, but that's hardly a long term solution. Our boat is very dry but I haven't checked the centre ER cavity nor the washing machine area yet - but given these are more along the centre line, any water they may not have much of a bearing on the list.

There was a little rust/wet mark on the forward corner of the generator muffler area and the drain channel (would be to the aft of the fresh water spigot). While its dry now, I wonder if there is a cavity under this area (hot water tank area) that might have some water. Would anyone have drawings of this area?
 
Following this thread - ours also has a stbd list (couple inches to balance it out). Certainly moving some weight around can help and when the waste tank is full it's looking more level, but that's hardly a long term solution. Our boat is very dry but I haven't checked the centre ER cavity nor the washing machine area yet - but given these are more along the centre line, any water they may not have much of a bearing on the list.

There was a little rust/wet mark on the forward corner of the generator muffler area and the drain channel (would be to the aft of the fresh water spigot). While its dry now, I wonder if there is a cavity under this area (hot water tank area) that might have some water. Would anyone have drawings of this area?
Hi Tom,
I obtained this drawing when I was replacing the sanitation lines. I believe the cavity the sanitation line PVC pipes run through is the same one you are talking about (under the fuel tanks). This is another space that has been known to accumulate water. There is more information and another drawing here http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-44-db-owners-club.39333/page-96#post-1126490 about instructions Sea Ray has provided to drill a hole in the aft of the bulkhead of this cavity to allow water to drain.

i haven't done this yet but I don't have any signs of water coming from those locations at this time...

upload_2020-8-21_9-34-0.png
 
Last edited:
My apologies, I stand corrected .. Thrusters only to stbd (slightly).
Curious what camera are you running in the bilge? would like to swap mine out for something with a wider angle like yours.
 
Curious what camera are you running in the bilge? would like to swap mine out for something with a wider angle like yours.
It’s part of a 4 camera and flybridge hatch position sensor security system by a company called Eufy.
 

Attachments

  • EE5B6F05-20AE-44D2-BB20-0469C571B225.jpeg
    EE5B6F05-20AE-44D2-BB20-0469C571B225.jpeg
    95.5 KB · Views: 135
  • C3188629-6C73-4532-8E5C-7EC7EAB97240.png
    C3188629-6C73-4532-8E5C-7EC7EAB97240.png
    590.9 KB · Views: 146
  • 324AF1B7-BE99-4A23-B29B-7A76B7121018.png
    324AF1B7-BE99-4A23-B29B-7A76B7121018.png
    309.1 KB · Views: 128
  • 0568C9B1-0067-4086-BD8D-FD10C47C1E02.png
    0568C9B1-0067-4086-BD8D-FD10C47C1E02.png
    307.7 KB · Views: 141
Last edited:
Following this thread - ours also has a stbd list (couple inches to balance it out). Certainly moving some weight around can help and when the waste tank is full it's looking more level, but that's hardly a long term solution. Our boat is very dry but I haven't checked the centre ER cavity nor the washing machine area yet - but given these are more along the centre line, any water they may not have much of a bearing on the list.

There was a little rust/wet mark on the forward corner of the generator muffler area and the drain channel (would be to the aft of the fresh water spigot). While its dry now, I wonder if there is a cavity under this area (hot water tank area) that might have some water. Would anyone have drawings of this area?

Isn't that cavity part of the same cavity that the starboard fuel tank sits on? Isn't it on the drawing I sent yesterday?

Bennett
 
Hi Tom,
I obtained this drawing when I was replacing the sanitation lines. I believe the cavity the sanitation line PVC pipes run through is the same one you are talking about (under the fuel tanks). This is another space that has been known to accumulate water. There is more information and another drawing here http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/420-44-db-owners-club.39333/page-96#post-1126490 about instructions Sea Ray has provided to drill a hole in the aft of the bulkhead of this cavity to allow water to drain.

i haven't done this yet but I don't have any signs of water coming from those locations at this time...

View attachment 90824
Thanks Brian. Bennett sent me the Sea Ray diagram with the note of where to drill the hole.
 
Isn't that cavity part of the same cavity that the starboard fuel tank sits on? Isn't it on the drawing I sent yesterday?

Bennett
Yes Bennett, it is. I posted about the same time as sending you the email. I was at home and not 100% sure that it was the same cavity all the way from the firewall to the aft of the boat - on the boat now and can confirm it is. Thanks again!
 
Finally I had the time to replace blower in the master head, which is located behind the medicine cabinet. I recall there were some questions and attempts on removing medicine cabinet, so I'll share my experience.

It turned out to be relatively easy task, in my case. Here are the steps I followed:
1. Removed the round access plate to the bottom right (access to the shower faucet).
2. Loosen the GFI, the actual grey outlet box, not just the receptacle.
3. Twist the receptacle and push it into the hole. If you skip this step, the cabinet will have no chance to come out, as it's a tight fit.
4. Take all the screws out.
5. At this point, the bottom felt lose, but the top felt some resistance. I have some caulking bead indicating that some of it might still have a good grip.
6. The key was to slowly work the cabinet out, with a little mussel, but keeping it straight and kind of even on each side, since it's a tight fit. As you get close to the two lights, just keep the unit straight and it'll clear them. Use the round access hole to move the outlet out of the way. Use that hole to catch the outlet and move it back in place when reinstalling the outlet back in place, after the cabinet is back in the frame.

The reason I had to take my medicine cabinet out was to replace the exhaust blower. It took me much longer to mess with it than the cabinet. I feel that it was one other item SR didn't think we'd be replacing. The blower is held by 4 screws. The two top ones we easy to get to. The bottom ones, is a different story. I think the blower was installed before the head cabin was added to the hull.

To help to get a visual, see few pics attached.
IMG_7241.JPG
IMG_7240.JPG
IMG_7238.JPG
IMG_7237.JPG
 
................

The reason I had to take my medicine cabinet out was to replace the exhaust blower. It took me much longer to mess with it than the cabinet. I feel that it was one other item SR didn't think we'd be replacing. The blower is held by 4 screws. The two top ones we easy to get to. The bottom ones, is a different story. I think the blower was installed before the head cabin was added to the hull.

To help to get a visual, see few pics attached.View attachment 91155 View attachment 91156 View attachment 91157 View attachment 91158
Nice write up as usual Alex.
What a pain in the a$$ place to put the blower. You are right, it looks like they never expect anyone to have to replace it.
The vent blower in my head is starting to make noise, so I may need to do this on my boat sometime in the future.

BY the way, I hope you and your family are doing well.
 
Nice write up as usual Alex.
What a pain in the a$$ place to put the blower. You are right, it looks like they never expect anyone to have to replace it.
The vent blower in my head is starting to make noise, so I may need to do this on my boat sometime in the future.

BY the way, I hope you and your family are doing well.

Thanks Harold. We're doing fine and I hope you and your crew are all good, as well.

It was interesting to note how SR smashed the blower in this tight spot to the point it was slightly deformed. I was surprised it wasn't making any extra noise earlier. To fit it without jamming it in, I mount it a bit higher, but to the side, making it clear the medicine cabinet sliding back in the spot.

You think making a quick access under the sink would be only logical place for the blower, but I guess the "engineers" know better than a hands-on boat owner...:(
 
Ok so I’m joining in the chase for water getting in the bilge. Have canceled out my shaft and ruder seals. The rear joint where the hull meets the upper deck seems fine as well. No signs of leaking water at cruise. The bilge remains bone dry at the dock and during rain storms etc. water seems to collect at fast cruise and trawl speeds.any ideas where to check while cruising for leaks?
 
Thru-hulls above the water line? had a couple that needed to be re-seated. Made a difference.
 
Ok so I’m joining in the chase for water getting in the bilge. Have canceled out my shaft and ruder seals. The rear joint where the hull meets the upper deck seems fine as well. No signs of leaking water at cruise. The bilge remains bone dry at the dock and during rain storms etc. water seems to collect at fast cruise and trawl speeds.any ideas where to check while cruising for leaks?
I'm beginning to think it is a fools errand to worry about it unless your bilge pumps can't keep up which is not likely. You may find yourself employing the services of an expensive shrink when you tear apart every possible point of entry only to not stop the intrusion. My buddy just spent five grand chasing a similar issue on his 04 420 SD. It turned out to be a leak at a transducer that had water running via a void in the hull itself and exiting into the bilge under the generator floor. Just to make sure he did not miss anything he had the rub rail removed and resealed around the stern as well.
Good luck finding your leak.
CD
 
I don’t know off the top of my head but I made a crows foot wrench to tighten the packing on mine a couple of years ago to solve a small seep on my port rudder. Hasn’t leaked since. Might try that instead of replacing the packing
 
Not sure there is anymore room to tighten??? I attached a pic. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 24148F99-D00E-4530-85DB-ADA490E069F3.jpeg
    24148F99-D00E-4530-85DB-ADA490E069F3.jpeg
    262.4 KB · Views: 180
Not sure there is anymore room to tighten??? I attached a pic. Thanks
Hard to tell from the pic. I’m not sure how the packing is sold but I would imagine it goes by OD of rudder post. Of course you will need to haul out to change to be safe. I’m sure you could get it done in the water but if you drop your rudder out you will have a big problem on your hands. Perhaps if you are close to sitting on the bottom at low tide that may help but I’m pretty sure I would want to do it on the hard. Mine is an 06 and I had plenty of adjustment left. Only had 200 hours on the boat though.
Where abouts are you located? No mention in your profile.
Carpe Diem
 
I'm beginning to think it is a fools errand to worry about it unless your bilge pumps can't keep up which is not likely. You may find yourself employing the services of an expensive shrink when you tear apart every possible point of entry only to not stop the intrusion. My buddy just spent five grand chasing a similar issue on his 04 420 SD. It turned out to be a leak at a transducer that had water running via a void in the hull itself and exiting into the bilge under the generator floor. Just to make sure he did not miss anything he had the rub rail removed and resealed around the stern as well.
Good luck finding your leak.
CD
You may be right based on the threads I've read. We winter in the water so as long as we have no water entry at rest i'm ok but wanted to make sure I'm not getting salt water spray about the engine room which doesn't seem to be the case. So far i've invested in a small portable shop vac to get rid of the water that the pumps doesn't get.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,944
Messages
1,422,727
Members
60,927
Latest member
Jaguar65
Back
Top