Stee6043
Well-Known Member
This sounds pretty decent if you were running in rough water with plenty of tab? That's exactly what I got this year in calm water, running too fast (22-23kts) with 500lbs of dinghy on the back...
410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**
- Thread starter mistercomputerman
- Start date
This sounds pretty decent if you were running in rough water with plenty of tab? That's exactly what I got this year in calm water, running too fast (22-23kts) with 500lbs of dinghy on the back...
- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,553
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
I think the real time numbers from your gateways are much better than an old excel spreadsheet. To add real-time fuel burn to these old mechanical diesels is about a $5k project.Lovely...now I have to set aside a day to create charts and graphs of fuel burn next year!
One reason I put this together was to get some baseline numbers of speed, boost and EGT. With this info, I was able to dial in my props, and I can tell when it’s time to haul and scrub the bottom.
techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,325
- Boat Info
- 1999 270 DA
- Engines
- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Looking forward to you reports.Lovely...now I have to set aside a day to create charts and graphs of fuel burn next year!
If you lost 400 RPMs the first order of business before touching the engines is to repitch them and run the boat before resampling. Extra iron indicates accelerated wear and if the boat is that overpropped the engines are significantly overloaded at all rpms
what prop/pitch are on there now?
In this case the iron looks to be from the gear train, oil pump, or camshaft rather than from cylinder walls. I say this because the Chromium is well within spec which if high would indicate piston ring wear / cylinder wall wear and/or roller bearing issues.
Since, however, as the analysis states, both engines showed a common increase in iron, I'd be more inclined to also think it was from an extremal contributor.
One thing however is the engines need many more hours on it between oil changes and analysis.
Captain Brian
Active Member
- Jan 5, 2013
- 127
- Boat Info
- 460 Sundancer 2001
"The BEECH HOUSE"
- Engines
- 6 CTA Cummins 450 HP with Vdrives, 10.0kw Westerbeke Gennie
You can't take the engineer out of me!Lovely...now I have to set aside a day to create charts and graphs of fuel burn next year!
Bama Boat
New Member
- Jul 26, 2022
- 18
- Boat Info
- 1992 300 weekender
- Engines
- Twin 5.7 mercruisers
I have a 92’ weekender 300 and my trim tabs a stuck in the up position. I just got the twin 5.7s
Working great and want to take the boat out now. Is it possible to get on plane and maintain cruising speed without using trim tabs. Any input on rpm and possible cruising speed would be appreciated. I’m a big boat sailor but know nothing about power boat cruising. I’ll fix trim tabs ASAP
Working great and want to take the boat out now. Is it possible to get on plane and maintain cruising speed without using trim tabs. Any input on rpm and possible cruising speed would be appreciated. I’m a big boat sailor but know nothing about power boat cruising. I’ll fix trim tabs ASAP
RollerCoastr
Well-Known Member
- Nov 15, 2007
- 3,884
- Boat Info
- 1997 400DA
340HP 7.4 Mercruiser Bluewaters
Garmin 741, 742, 8212, 24HD, Intellian I2
- Engines
- 1999 280BR
Twin 250HP Merc 350 Alpha Ones
Yes, that's a very well-balanced boat. She'll run fine.
midexp
Active Member
- Oct 5, 2016
- 423
- Boat Info
- 1999 40' Sundancer
- Engines
- 454 merc
Hey Brian. Not sure my prop size. I know 1 reason my boat gets better FE is it’s lighter. I’d see what other 41’s get using the Fox Gateways.
Ezsteps
Well-Known Member
- Nov 14, 2015
- 1,341
- Boat Info
- 1999 400 Sundancer, YL310 Zodiac, MX 335 Novurania
- Engines
- 7.4 Mercuisers Horizons 380 hp ea., 9.9 hp Mercury, 30 Yamaha
I have Michigan Boat Services do mine in the spring. I tried to see if he would do it in the fall but he said he's to busy with shrinkwrap. He has done mine every spring since I bought it in 2016.
Firemedic181
Active Member
Was able to get a coat of wax on over the weekend, the one pic shows the difference of where I already did and where still needed to be done(chalk type look), glad I got that done.
First time doing it so it’s not perfect but I think it looks decent.
Attachments
Has anyone done the sanitation hoses and remembers how many feet each run was? I have two inline couplers, one per head, both in the aft Cabin. I could eyeball it but I don’t want to pull them out without having the new on hand so I can use it as a pull. This stuff is also wildly expensive so I want to be as close as possible
brewster16
Well-Known Member
I hope all this fuel burn comparison is being done with NMPG not SMPG otherwise comparisons are invalid.
Stee6043
Well-Known Member
Made my first stop of the winter storage season yesterday. Scum line's gone and I did some prep work for...flooring.
After I get the sides waxed I'm going to transition to the wood flooring project so many of you guys have done. Looking forward to spending more time inside the boat this winter vs crawling around compounding/polishing the outside.
We'll see how I fair on carpet removal. I won't miss my runners. They were one of my first DIY sewing projects. They are...functional...at best
After I get the sides waxed I'm going to transition to the wood flooring project so many of you guys have done. Looking forward to spending more time inside the boat this winter vs crawling around compounding/polishing the outside.
We'll see how I fair on carpet removal. I won't miss my runners. They were one of my first DIY sewing projects. They are...functional...at best
RollerCoastr
Well-Known Member
- Nov 15, 2007
- 3,884
- Boat Info
- 1997 400DA
340HP 7.4 Mercruiser Bluewaters
Garmin 741, 742, 8212, 24HD, Intellian I2
- Engines
- 1999 280BR
Twin 250HP Merc 350 Alpha Ones
Both measures have been used, but as long as the poster mentions the measure used, conversion is simple and valid.
gmaki
Member
It has been awhile but thought I'd give an update on my "newly" (now 4 months ago) purchased boat.
After waiting for the new elbow for oil drain tube to come from Russia, I finally got a day to put it in. Guess what? Oil still leaking, but just a much smaller leak, and now from the top of the tube. So after much head scratching we decided to take the whole thing off again and re inspect everything, Guess what, the top fitting of the oil drain tube was not flat. Both ears were bent down as if someone had tightened it with something supporting the middle but nothing supporting the ears. The amount of bend was just about the width of the gasket itself so that the middle part of the gasket would have never been squeezed no matter how tight we made the bolts. For the life of me I can't understand how those ears bent, but did not crack but whatever.
Once again the part was two weeks plus away if I ordered from Cat. So we decided to attempt to sand the fitting and see if we could make it flat. And it worked. The leak is gone! finally, after 4 months of dicking around with this issue. I've lost the summer, but of course here in CA, winter is just "summer light" so I will still be going out.
So now it is just a matter of getting a captain to come up to Oxnard and give me a couple days of instruction and I think I can start using the boat. It seems like most captains willing to train are in Marina Del Rey or Long Beach. I literally haven't been able to find a local one.
I am still in the midst of an oil change on the stbd engine. Just waiting for fuel filters to arrive. I have decided not to change the port engine oil as it was just rebuilt and has fresh oil and filters all around.
PS: oh yeah literally the day after we finally resolved the issue, Quinn gave me a call and told me my new turbo was in and they were ready to come out and repair the leak (by replacing the entire turbo). I asked them if they had ordered a new oil return tube assembly as well and they said no. I told them to send the turbo back. I hope to never have to deal with Quinn again.
After waiting for the new elbow for oil drain tube to come from Russia, I finally got a day to put it in. Guess what? Oil still leaking, but just a much smaller leak, and now from the top of the tube. So after much head scratching we decided to take the whole thing off again and re inspect everything, Guess what, the top fitting of the oil drain tube was not flat. Both ears were bent down as if someone had tightened it with something supporting the middle but nothing supporting the ears. The amount of bend was just about the width of the gasket itself so that the middle part of the gasket would have never been squeezed no matter how tight we made the bolts. For the life of me I can't understand how those ears bent, but did not crack but whatever.
Once again the part was two weeks plus away if I ordered from Cat. So we decided to attempt to sand the fitting and see if we could make it flat. And it worked. The leak is gone! finally, after 4 months of dicking around with this issue. I've lost the summer, but of course here in CA, winter is just "summer light" so I will still be going out.
So now it is just a matter of getting a captain to come up to Oxnard and give me a couple days of instruction and I think I can start using the boat. It seems like most captains willing to train are in Marina Del Rey or Long Beach. I literally haven't been able to find a local one.
I am still in the midst of an oil change on the stbd engine. Just waiting for fuel filters to arrive. I have decided not to change the port engine oil as it was just rebuilt and has fresh oil and filters all around.
PS: oh yeah literally the day after we finally resolved the issue, Quinn gave me a call and told me my new turbo was in and they were ready to come out and repair the leak (by replacing the entire turbo). I asked them if they had ordered a new oil return tube assembly as well and they said no. I told them to send the turbo back. I hope to never have to deal with Quinn again.
You can flat file that thing and get it straightened out or have a machine shop quickly mill it flat.
gmaki
Member
We literally sanded it flat. We had some adhesive sandpaper, which we taped down to the plate on top of the engine (sorry don't know what it is called) and sanded it down perfectly flat.
Fix it?
That thing is under zero pressure. The back bolt is probably the hardest bolt to get to on that engine; sure it was tight?
gmaki
Member
Dude, if you had only heard all the conversations we had about "how could this thing be leaking? it is literally under no pressure" and how many times I went back in and put another quarter turn on that back bolt (and yes it is a PITA to get to). I purchased a low profile swivel socket set specifically to get a better grip (and easier access) on that bolt and make sure we tightened it properly. I finally had to stop tightening it because we were at the point we were concerned that we might snap it.
This is why the conversation about taking it all off again was such a painful one. We simply could not believe that it had come to that. Trust me that top flange was a potato chip. Again, how it got that way will always be a mystery to me. But the fact is sanding it flat (with a scotch brite buffing) solved the problem.
