410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Ted Russell said:
Looks good! How do you plan to deal with the carpeted baseboard when doing a solid surface floor?
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For now I’m going to leave it. On my old boat I cut the floor tight enough that it tucked underneath the carpet and it looks well finished.

i’m going to use 6 mm vinyl so that I can deal with some imperfections in the floor and bend it up some of the angled parts
 
Strecker25 said:
For now I’m going to leave it. On my old boat I cut the floor tight enough that it tucked underneath the carpet and it looks well finished.

i’m going to use 6 mm vinyl so that I can deal with some imperfections in the floor and bend it up some of the angled parts
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Start a separate thread. I’m curious to see how you do this project, and the wife would love new floors
 
This might be in the manual but Can someone measure the “strap” decal location for me next time they’re at the boat?

mine are gone and I’d like to put them back on next year
 
My front sling marks are also gone. Not shown in manual. Can someone with a 1998 40 DA with diesels snap a pic of their location and post? Thanks.
 
Sgrochow said:
My front sling marks are also gone. Not shown in manual. Can someone with a 1998 40 DA with diesels snap a pic of their location and post? Thanks.
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Mine is a 2000 400 DA but no reason it shouldn’t be the same. Zoom in and you can see the sling mark under the red line.
4E8F5A53-DC96-437A-AF1A-68DFA72A1C5F.jpeg
 
I just looked up stainless thru-hull replacements for the plastic fittings as I thought it would be a nice looking upgrade….$500 worth of fittings. I know it’ll look nice, but that’s a bit steep for cosmetics. Anyone else done it?
 
Sea Ray used a cross between epoxy and gorilla snot to bed those nylon filled plastic fittings into the hull and they are very difficult to remove. A few owners at our marina (owned by the dealer) ordered stainless thru-hulls and attempted to change them thinking they would just have a collar on the back side he could just unscrew.

When I had to leave town after his first weekend, he had changed only 3 in 2 full days and ended up sawing the fittings out of the hull with a hole saw Only to find out he was going to have to go up at least one size to cover the hole he has sawn into the boat……... twice in 2 days that I have gotten to post one of my rules of boating: (Don't drill or saw holes in a perfectly good boat)…...I don't know how much cosmetic improvement he achieved by changing a 3/4" white thru-hull to a stainless 1-1/4" one.

My wife is quiet, under-stated and usually boils things down to the brass tacks very quickly offered this: "You know, I think the white fittings look a lot better now"!
 
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fwebster said:
Sea Ray used a cross between epoxy and gorilla snot to bed those nylon filled plastic fitting into the hull and they are very difficult to remove. A few owners at our marina (owned by the dealer) ordered stainless thru hulls and attempted to change them thinking that would just have a collar on the back side he could just unscrew.

When I had to leave town after his first weekend, he had changed only 3 in 2 full days and ended up sawing the fittings out of the hull with a hole saw Only to find out he was going to have to go up at least one size to cover the sawn hole…..I don't know how much cosmetic improvement he achieves by changing a white thru hull to a stainless 1-1/4" one. My wife who is quiet, unde-stated and usually boils things down to brass tacks very quickly offered. this: "You know I think the white fittings look a lot better now"!
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ouch, no thanks on that job. Our salon ac output is loose so that got me curious on the project but I think I’ll replace that one with another plastic and move on.

the pain of that job and cost of the stainless would be just as bad as me paying $200 for new Sundancer logos. I like them, but I’m fairly certain no one else has ever noticed

thanks Frank
 
Strecker25 said:
I just looked up stainless thru-hull replacements for the plastic fittings as I thought it would be a nice looking upgrade….$500 worth of fittings. I know it’ll look nice, but that’s a bit steep for cosmetics. Anyone else done it?
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Yes I’m my opinion it was worth it. I have three left to do
 
Strecker25 said:
I just looked up stainless thru-hull replacements for the plastic fittings as I thought it would be a nice looking upgrade….$500 worth of fittings. I know it’ll look nice, but that’s a bit steep for cosmetics. Anyone else done it?
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@Mig22 did his on the 380 and looks awesome. Nit sure how bad they were for him
 
Guys, can someone let me know how the springs on this step are supposed to work? It will not stay in the closed position but the spring on the left is in place. Trying to figure out how to get this to stay closed.
step on boat (2).jpg
 
I had t he same type step on my 450DA and I ended up removing the step from the boat and taking it home to my shop. I decided that I would just rebuild the mechanism, put all new fasteners in it and repainted the aluminum parts which were beginning to show their age afrom a life time on Florida. Once I rebuilt it, the mechanism tightened up to the point that it really didn't need springs, but I replaced them too.

Good luck with it…..and getting the step out and reinstalled is about a 6 Advil job.
 
Wow, I am surprised Frank. With that kind of access I would have expected it to be a 2 advil job at most. I guess all the hardware is on the inside, so its a two hand job with room for one.
 
Actually, better staffing would be 2 hands and a well trained spider monkey. It is one of the most challenging jobs I've done on a Sea Ray. There is no good way to get wrenches to the fasteners holding the fold down step inside the side wall. I should emend my earlier post to include a medium sized box of Band-Aids.
 
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