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Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by mistercomputerman, Jul 21, 2012.
Not sure what brand you have, hope this helps. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ocean-air-blinds
I‘ve been using the 10 lb. latches. I spent a while in Home Depot and Lowe’s earlier this week trying to come up with another solution but no luck so I just put another one on.
It’s a dumb design for an access panel that isn’t hinged and can be moved left or right a fraction of an inch.
The problem is when someone other than me thinks they are doing the right thing by closing the panel and winds up breaking the female side because the panel isn’t lined up correctly.
Oddly enough, I’ve never broken one.
Hopefully this one will last longer after I reminded my wife and daughter to try not to be so helpful.
Honestly though, the poor design isn’t their fault so I couldn’t get too aggravated.
Just another item added to the long list of things I’d rather do myself............
I changed the shade side on one of mine last year and I seem to remember that the tab didn’t come with the new shade cartridge I got from Oceanair.
Take it down off of the hatch and take a close look at it and you should see how to tighten it.
BTW: Be very careful with it. Oceanair charged me a small fortune for a replacement shade cartridge that goes in the frame.
That looks like an Oceanaire? If so, there's a small rubber piece that fits in to the groove on the screen latch. It will be the same width as the latch piece, and maybe 1/16" in diameter. The easiest way I've found to reinstall it is to take the latch out of its' groove and then pull the screen all the way out as far as it will go. Take the rubber piece and wrap the very end of the screen around it, trying to overlap it by about 1/4". You'll then slide that in to the groove of the latch piece, and feed the screen into it, trying to maintain that 1/4" overlap. Once done, put the latch bar back in it's groove and then make sure the sides of the screen are straight in the groove, and let it retract slowly.
It's tough to describe, but relatively easy to do. Hope this helps, let me know if anything isn't clear.
We have finished out trip and brought our girl back to fresh water. She’s going on the market - 2001. 41’ 3126’s just under 1,000hrs. Got her buffed and new bottom, even replaced the frig and salon ac. A cover girl, PM me if anyone one is interested.
I figured I'd share an interesting learning I had this year regarding oil pressure.
On the second of two long trips (long for me) this year I noticed one of my engines was starting to show low oil pressure at certain RPM's, usually right around or just above my typical cruise RPM. Not low enough for full freak-out but enough that I was noticing it and watching it very closely. It was very consistent and it would always return to perfect pressure when I'd come back down to hull speed.
So what does a typical CSR member do when something like this happens? Scour CSR of course. I found the following explanations listed in order of increasing expense and hate 1.) Too much oil in the engine/pan (foaming/frothing at operating RPM from oil/crank contact in pan), 2.) bad pressure relief valve in the oil filter and 3.) cracked oil pickup or bad pump inside the engine.
Since my oil levels were perfect I hoped to confirm # 2 was my issue during my fall oil change (I didn't swap earlier because I was mostly done with longer trips for the year). Fortunately for me that's exactly what it was.
I run Amsoil oil filters because that's what was on the boat when I bought it. And they are bigger than the Merc filters so they must be better, right? . I replaced with Amsoil filters again this year hoping this was a fluke for Amsoil. During my final run of the year the pressure problem went away, everything acted the way it should. If I get a repeat low pressure issue next summer I'll put myself back in the camp of loving everything Merc and leave a strongly worded negative review on the Amsoil website.
Just thought I'd share in case any of you guys ever find yourselves trouble shooting a non-instrumentation related oil pressure issue.
I use Caterpillar filters on the engines in my 410 and WIX on the generator but I stick with either AC/Delco or WIX for the 5 cars in the household and the 3.0 Mercruiser in the little 18’ Bowrider.
Thanks Stee, I'll put this in my memory bank. I'm running all Merc in mine.
I had a survey done this year and it was recommended that I re-bed the anchor roller, windlass, and forward deck hatch due to some very minor water intrusion. The surveyor is of the opinion that it was caught early and can be easily addressed with removing the listed hardware, drying out the core in heated storage, then re-bedding in the spring. Has anyone done this? Any friendly recommendations or tips for removal to make the process a bit easier and smoother? Re-bedding I’m not concerned with, but I don’t want to break anything trying to remove the deck hatch.
I'm sure this is a beaten horse....does anyone have a source for the hull side bilge vent cover? No luck with FP.
You’re probably going to have to find a good fiberglass guy to make a mold from a sample and make one for you.
I came across a boat that needed one on one side when I was shopping and I made a few calls.
If I remember correctly, Sea Ray gave me the name of the vendor who made them for Sea Ray, I called the guy and was told the molds were long gone.
That particular boat wasn’t right for me so I moved on and never looked in to it any further.
I can't comment on the deck hatch but I can on the anchor pulpit. On my 400DA we were anchored and got caught up in a weather micro-burst; the boat took a hard swing and sheared the bolts holding the bow roller assembly to the deck; what a mess. As it ends up we found the bolting of the bow roller did not have appropriate backing plates or support and the bolts could, if subjected to large side forces, move and consequently the seal/bedding be compromised. So, if you are going to pull all that apart I would recommend fabricating a full backing plate on the underside. Tom
I'm surprised at how often this question comes up. Clearly the battle between boat and fixed dock is one not always won by the bumpers and lines
I've recently had thoughts of trying to fashion canvas snap-on covers (with screens) to cover my vents. Maybe this is an unpopular opinion but I feel like our aft ER vents are one of the few "dated" exterior features on our vintage 400's.
Someday I may have to go ahead and waste $40 in Sunbrella just to see what this would look like. Probably horrible...but worth a shot.
They moved the ER vents above the rub rail specifically to help curtail damage to the vents from docking and fenders. As no one really makes reproductions is testament to the robustness of the design; right?
One of my dock neighbors owns a high-quality marine canvas shop. (he's a former 400DA owner and CSR member)
I just asked him for a quote on a helm cover to replace the ratty sheets I've been using. I wonder if we could get some volume discounts if anyone else is interested?
Of course one year too late for me. I went the DIY route this past spring to get away from the 3 beach towels I was using....
I'd be interested to hear what a real pro charges for a helm cover, but don't want to pry.. Using Sunbrella Seamark total cost of materials for me was around $75, $10 +/- of which was the patterning material. You could do it for sub $50 with lower-end canvas.
This was my very first time sewing...ever....its functional but has to be removed before any friends who notice straight lines would board my boat.
WAIT...Roller, I have a deal for you. Come over to West Michigan this winter and show me how to change my seawater impellers in under 10 hours and I'll trade you for a custom, not very straightly sewn, helm cover that is guaranteed to almost perfectly fit your helm
lol No deal on that particular swap, but advice and guidance from my keyboard/couch is always free!
Hah. I hope you get some takers on the cover. A solid upgrade for sure...
That is definitely on my list and I would be interested in one. I just don't know if I want to match my canvas or my dash. I'm leaning towards matching the canvas. I have already talked to the guy that does my canvas stuff about it. Just haven't discussed price yet.
I'm interested but just bought a machine and plan on doing it myself (I think you've been in the thread)...So it's a risk/reward issue...Price? I might actually enjoy doing it...not sure...