40 sedan bridge forum

I'm looking at a couple 1996 40 sedan bridge boats, both diesel powered. Is there anything I should look at/for specifically on these boats?
 
I have 1997 400DB w/ 3116 Cats.
The biggest problem for me is the lack of space in the lazerette. I had to build racks and stack AGM batteries and a rack for the inverter - it enabled me to (barely) get at the odor filter above the holding tank. Also found that to get at the Westerbeke gen. set impeller I had to loosen its motor mounts and rotate the gen set clockwise. That was easier than the Port main engine impeller.......lots of verbal outrage and ackward positioning and finally completion.(starboard side on inboard side and a piece of cake!). Looking at the hot water heater replacement is giving me nightmares...will cross that bridge when the time comes.
We also took the salon TV/VCR out of the cabinet and made an acrylic door , hinged at the top and attached a flat screen TV - the cabinet is now our liquor cabinet and Direct TV control box (I use a rail mounted antenae and route the cable through the vent on the starboard side and into the liquor cabinet.
Probably the biggest mistake I made when buying the boat 4 yrs. ago was demanding a lower helm. I am not comfortable using the lower helm as the forward and aft visability is not good as the boat has a Euro style design and the lower front winshield is sloped so to give you 3 foot of glass to wash but about 1 1/2 feet to see out of from the inside at the helm.
If you find that both of the boats you are looking at are about equal .....choose the one with the best upper bridge enclosure as this is where you will be underway (see above!). I was lucky in that the PO had installed a new upper enclosure and used the hard 'barrett' type clear glass.
Overall I'm happy with the result. the boat is 'stern heavy' - I add to the problem hanging a 500 lb. dink on an aft davit.
The boat handles well in 3-4 foot seas and in marinas.
I will be happy to answer any questions you may have (not too technical).
I live in La Conner and am currently in Mazatlan until mid Feb. . My cell phone extends to Mexico as a . local call.
If for some reason you want to see our boat (not for sale) before we come home I can arrange to have a neighbor open the boat for you.
Good luck, 206-719-4621 budgoad@msn.com

Bud
 
I have a question for you late '90s/early 2000's 40DB owners. Figuring useage would be on average a 30mile roundtrip once a week, mostly a dockqueen the rest of the week and one 200-400mile roundtrip a year. For a 10 year total ownership cost, would gasers or diesels be the smarter choice?
 
Diesels will be much kinder to you during any close quarters handling. I moved laterally from a Regal 3880 to my 400DB back in 03. The Sea Ray is far superior in many aspects; but the diesel option changed how we boat. We have logged several trips up and down the West Coast mainly due to the reliability and range that we now have. I have run this boat with Cats and Cummins, but don't recall with gas. I do know that my Regal was lighter by several thousand pounds, but was a nightmare to dock in any kind of wind/current. (no bow thruster). Just my thoughts.
 
I have a '97 with gas and use strictly on the Ohio River. So generally just leisurely motoring around most of the time and I think gas is fine for what I do. I put about 60-65 hours on the boat last year and burned about 700 gallons of fuel total. This includes generator use of 160 hours. We also did take one trip that was about 150 miles round trip. We ran the whole way at about 24 MPH and averaged about .75 MPG. Around the docks, she is a little slow and unresponsive. But after you get used to it, it can be overcome with throttle adjustments etc. I am not sure if this helps...
 
I have a '97 with gas and use strictly on the Ohio River. So generally just leisurely motoring around most of the time and I think gas is fine for what I do. I put about 60-65 hours on the boat last year and burned about 700 gallons of fuel total. This includes generator use of 160 hours. We also did take one trip that was about 150 miles round trip. We ran the whole way at about 24 MPH and averaged about .75 MPG. Around the docks, she is a little slow and unresponsive. But after you get used to it, it can be overcome with throttle adjustments etc. I am not sure if this helps...
Thanks. Every input helps. I know its impossible to put into a formula but I am trying to factor in that diesels want to be run to be of best value, don't need much done between maintenance cycles, but have rather pricey maintenance events. Whereas gas is kinda of an ongoing lower level maintenance burn, yet seems more tolerant to less use of the boat as a continuous daily cruiser. By the way, this will be in salt, year round use.
 
I have a question for you late '90s/early 2000's 40DB owners. Figuring useage would be on average a 30mile roundtrip once a week, mostly a dockqueen the rest of the week and one 200-400mile roundtrip a year. For a 10 year total ownership cost, would gasers or diesels be the smarter choice?

You need to consider few other things like:
- In 10 years of ownership you might have to either replace or do a major overhaul on the gas engines. Well maintained diesel won't need that, most likely.
- Resale value of the boat with gas engines vs. diesels.
- When putting low hours on the boat I would consider that diesel can sit in the tanks much longer (using additives helps a lot too), but I would hesitate on the same approach when it comes to gas with ethanol.
- When moving up to a larger boat that gives you all the comforts of a home chances are you'll be changing your boating style and would like to take more extended trips. If this will be your case, if you went with gas boat it won't be long before you say to yourself that it was a mistake.
- Is the price difference so great that it's very easy to justify gas vs/ diesel boat? when you break up this difference in the course of the 10yrs ownership will it still make sense?

It's not an easy call, so I would take my time and do as much homework as possible before pulling the trigger.
 
Thanks for your inputs everyone. The winner is 1998-2000 400DB with bridge plan A and CAT3116s. Will it happen? Not sure. We have one more active season in fresh water on our 300DA before our permanent move to the salty Beaufort, SC. And I'd have to sell some things to bridge the exchange between the two boats (I don't do loans for pleasure stuff), as well as find a good boat (the hard part). Maybe I'll see you all back here in about a year. Have a great season, and thanks again.
 
Hi all can anyone tell me if my 2003 40 Sedan Bridge is equipped with a drain plug and where it is located.My yard mechanic says there is no plug on this model. Thanks
 
Hi all can anyone tell me if my 2003 40 Sedan Bridge is equipped with a drain plug and where it is located.My yard mechanic says there is no plug on this model. Thanks

Your yard mechanic is correct, your boat doesn't have a drain plug.
 
Thanks I wonder why Sea Ray designed the boat without a drain plug
 
I have a '97 with gas and use strictly on the Ohio River. So generally just leisurely motoring around most of the time and I think gas is fine for what I do. I put about 60-65 hours on the boat last year and burned about 700 gallons of fuel total. This includes generator use of 160 hours. We also did take one trip that was about 150 miles round trip. We ran the whole way at about 24 MPH and averaged about .75 MPG. Around the docks, she is a little slow and unresponsive. But after you get used to it, it can be overcome with throttle adjustments etc. I am not sure if this helps...

24mph at .75? Best I ever saw running a fast cruise (~3400 rpms iirc) was .6, maybe .65. I always wanted to think i was getting better but was just kidding myself.

For ZZ, when i was ready to sell my 2000, I bet I called 20 different brokers/dealers with 480s. Every single one in or near saltwater wouldn't even talk to me or basically wanted me to give the boat away. No one was interested in a 40' gas sedan, even one that was 100% fresh water, showroom condition and a SR. That drastically cuts down your addressable market when you get the itch to move up. Just another piece of info for you to factor in. Diesel torque (handling) can't be overstated either.
 
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Thanks I wonder why Sea Ray designed the boat without a drain plug


Cost, function and elimination of future maintenance issues for owners.

How many us ever remove the drain plug? Mine has been in the boat since at least 1997 and has never been removed. With multiple bilge pumps (I have 4 plus the high water pump) and dripless shaft seals, there is very little way for water to get in a boat or stay there. If you did, are you going to run over to a boat yard's haul out slip and pull a 40 ft boat out of the water to remove the drain plug and let the water out or are you just going to pump it out. And, then how many CSR members that did remove drain plugs for winter storage in the NE when Sandy hit still have boats?
 
Frank Thanks for the response makes sense
 
Looking for advice regarding anchor holding bottom problem. We frequently anchor in the Connetiquat river very muddy soft bottom.My anchor rode set up consists of 20 feet chain 200 Ft 5/8 line and a 35 Lb anchor.I am never confident that I achieve a good anchor set.Looking for opinions ,I am thinking about adding 60 to 90 feet of anchor chain.Will this solve my holding problems.Thanks
 
Looking for advice regarding anchor holding bottom problem. We frequently anchor in the Connetiquat river very muddy soft bottom.My anchor rode set up consists of 20 feet chain 200 Ft 5/8 line and a 35 Lb anchor.I am never confident that I achieve a good anchor set.Looking for opinions ,I am thinking about adding 60 to 90 feet of anchor chain.Will this solve my holding problems.Thanks
 
Looking for advice regarding anchor holding bottom problem. We frequently anchor in the Connetiquat river very muddy soft bottom.My anchor rode set up consists of 20 feet chain 200 Ft 5/8 line and a 35 Lb anchor.I am never confident that I achieve a good anchor set.Looking for opinions ,I am thinking about adding 60 to 90 feet of anchor chain.Will this solve my holding problems.Thanks

What's the scope are you using?

Most common issues are:
1. Not enough scope.
2. Small anchor.
3. Small anchor and not enough scope.

Regardless, adding more chain will always help. But, proper scope is the key #1.
 
Alex the area that we frequently anchor in is a soft mud grassy bottom.Very shallow depth between 4 to 5 Ft.I normally put out around one hundred Ft of anchor line or more if the wind is up.I am trying to figure out if the plow anchor is the wrong anchor for this type of bottom.I have considered changeing over to a Danforth style anchor however that type of anchor will not fit in my anchor roller.Hopeing adding chain will resovle my holding issue.Thanks Steve
 
Steve,

NJ shore has very similar bottom conditions, so I know exactly what you mean. The thing with anchor types (BTW, I didn't mention it as one of the issues, b/c SR does a good job picking what works best for what model). Thus, both anchors Plow and Danforth work fine for this type of bottom. If you experiencing issue holding the position when having 100' of line for 5' depth, then I would change two things: 1 - get next size (or see if two sizes over will fit and look right) plow anchor. 2 - Add 100'-150' of chain (all chain is best of course). If you decide to go for all chain, then go with no less than 250'-300'.

BTW, I see you're in GSB area, have you seeing this thread? CSR Northeast Flotilla 2013 You're welcome to join us. Don't be shy, we're friendly bunch.
 
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Alex Thanks for the advice regarding my anchor needs I am going to purchase a new chain package from Defender marine they have a deal for 92ft of 5/16 Hi tensil for approx $360 and I will have it spliced onto my line.The summer flotilla sounds awesome we were planning to go to Block and Newport we have to see if we can make the dates work for us.Really looking forward to Spring we purchased this boat at the end of August and we really love it.
 

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