40 sedan bridge forum

CA7491EE-39BD-45EB-B960-3D6BD62D5ABC.jpeg I have a similar slip to back into at my home marina but there is another boat next to me without a piling between us. The only pivot point is the corner and I upgraded to this which has not left any marks at all on my newly painted hull.

It was much easier earlier in the season when this Ranger Tug was next to me. My new neighbor is a 42’ Carver Aft Cabin and I think we may have two feet between us. When wind and current are pushing me away from my finger pier it adds considerably to the pucker factor.
https://www.shelllumber.com/multina...5UZAkooxXvqZDrb2JYQwj00tHO8f_dTxoCJFIQAvD_BwE
 
I am confident in handling my new to me 400.
What makes me concerned is the current and wind pushing me when trying to enter my narrow slip. Has anyone used a back up camera? What models have been tried if any?
I did purchase a dock wheel for the longer port side finger pier. On floating piers I do not have a piling to rub rail off of. I am not currently moving slips yet.View attachment 65239
I am checking out the Defender catalog and this may be a solution for you. Try searching for Taylor Made Dock Pro Inflatable Dock Wheel model 1072.

https://search.defender.com/?expression=011674

upload_2019-2-17_20-1-40.jpeg
 
View attachment 65288 I have a similar slip to back into at my home marina but there is another boat next to me without a piling between us. The only pivot point is the corner and I upgraded to this which has not left any marks at all on my newly painted hull.

It was much easier earlier in the season when this Ranger Tug was next to me. My new neighbor is a 42’ Carver Aft Cabin and I think we may have two feet between us. When wind and current are pushing me away from my finger pier it adds considerably to the pucker factor.
https://www.shelllumber.com/multina...5UZAkooxXvqZDrb2JYQwj00tHO8f_dTxoCJFIQAvD_BwE

As fenders go, that's a pretty affordable solution!
 
I have TWO sets of wheels in my "16'" slip. It's really not 16' as I measure it. It's tight and the second set is back about 5' from the corner. I got really lucky with the placement as it allows me to point my swim platform at the second set and it usually works out. Usually...
 
{I am confident in handling my new to me 400.
What makes me concerned is the current and wind pushing me when trying to enter my narrow slip. Has anyone used a back up camera? What models have been tried if any?}
I mounted one to the plastic access plate already in place on my arch so that I didn't have to drill or cut any holes in my aluminum arch. I found this one on Ebay for $70 from a yacht liquidation place in Florida. Supposedly used, but don't think that it had ever been mounted. $450 new.... Any marine grade camera would be fine. Plugs into my chart plotter and is great for viewing guests in my cockpit below and swim platform. Useful to keep an eye on our dog as he runs up and down the stairs while under way occasionally as well. I thought that I would use it more for backing into my slip, but find it distracting. I just open the transom door where I can see the corner of my swim platform. Of course I always do a direct visual, but think it's great to keep an eye on swimmers around the rear of my boat when firing up my engines to leave a raft up also.
 

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Have any of you guys that keep your boat out in the weather dealt with a soft floor in the transom locker? On my list of course of things to do is to replace the weather stripping in the photo attached.... My boat has been kept under cover its entire life and likely hasn't been rained on a dozen times over the last 20 years. The floor in this locker is getting pretty soft. I assume from wet floatie saddle storage, and washing with poor drainage from this locker. I'm considering dropping a star board floor in over the existing plywood and caulking/sealing it into place vs. re-glassing, or the wood rot penetrating stuff.
 

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Roger. Did they put the two in the arch where existing factory access holes are, or did they cut new holes. Would love to see pictures of the locations of the additional bridge speakers that aren't the three factory installs.
Speakers are all in, and it sounds absolutely amazing. Does not have to be loud, and most of the time is not. I made a few gunnel mods as well to tighten everything up, and all but eliminating any rattle. The base is very clean and tight. Pretty high tech with the application of a thick dynamat sound deadener material on each inside gunnel wall, and foam pool noodles that stiffen up either side, and act as a kind of shock absorber to the panel. 1/2" starboard spacers stiffen up the sub mounting points. Works really really well.
So on the bridge, (2) 10" subs, (2) 7.7" midrange components with separate tweeters, (4) 6.5"'s. The cockpit has (2) 7.7" components, and a 12" ported sub with enclosure in the ice maker storage under the stairs. All of it JL Audio with (3) amps totaling 2000 watts of clean RMS power, and (3) remote controls in addition to the main deck in the salon at the fly bridge, swim platform, and cockpit area in the side of the stair riser near the sliding door handle.
 

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Speakers are all in, and it sounds absolutely amazing. Does not have to be loud, and most of the time is not. I made a few gunnel mods as well to tighten everything up, and all but eliminating any rattle. The base is very clean and tight. Pretty high tech with the application of a thick dynamat sound deadener material on each inside gunnel wall, and foam pool noodles that stiffen up either side, and act as a kind of shock absorber to the panel. 1/2" starboard spacers stiffen up the sub mounting points. Works really really well.
So on the bridge, (2) 10" subs, (2) 7.7" midrange components with separate tweeters, (4) 6.5"'s. The cockpit has (2) 7.7" components, and a 12" ported sub with enclosure in the ice maker storage under the stairs. All of it JL Audio with (3) amps totaling 2000 watts of clean RMS power, and (3) remote controls in addition to the main deck in the salon at the fly bridge, swim platform, and cockpit area in the side of the stair riser near the sliding door handle.
Great Scott! How did you determine correct speaker placement?
 
Great Scott! How did you determine correct speaker placement?
It was a progression starting with replacing the factory 6 1/2's and 10" sub. That led to a second sub on the other side. That led to replacing the 6 1/2's with 7.7's after I had added some in the cockpit and was amazed by them. That led to having two new 6 1/2's that needed to go somewhere. All of them have been tuned by channel individually so that they don't over power each other with gain sensitivity and filter frequency. It's de-tuned against being stupidly loud, but dialed in to sound great at reasonable levels for people on the flybridge.
 
I saw the earlier post concerning “cored hulls”.
I have a 1997, is the topside deck cored?
I believe all decks are cored and some hulls on the 400DB of certain years are. It would be nice to know the years the hulls are cored. I thought I saw a thread on it before but can't seem to find it.
 
I believe all decks are cored and some hulls on the 400DB of certain years are. It would be nice to know the years the hulls are cored. I thought I saw a thread on it before but can't seem to find it.
Core of my side hull from my 98 after I did the galley sink drain by pass
 

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I believe all decks are cored and some hulls on the 400DB of certain years are. It would be nice to know the years the hulls are cored. I thought I saw a thread on it before but can't seem to find it.
Read the posts on the previous page of this thread. You will get your answer.
 
Speakers are all in, and it sounds absolutely amazing. Does not have to be loud, and most of the time is not. I made a few gunnel mods as well to tighten everything up, and all but eliminating any rattle. The base is very clean and tight. Pretty high tech with the application of a thick dynamat sound deadener material on each inside gunnel wall, and foam pool noodles that stiffen up either side, and act as a kind of shock absorber to the panel. 1/2" starboard spacers stiffen up the sub mounting points. Works really really well.
So on the bridge, (2) 10" subs, (2) 7.7" midrange components with separate tweeters, (4) 6.5"'s. The cockpit has (2) 7.7" components, and a 12" ported sub with enclosure in the ice maker storage under the stairs. All of it JL Audio with (3) amps totaling 2000 watts of clean RMS power, and (3) remote controls in addition to the main deck in the salon at the fly bridge, swim platform, and cockpit area in the side of the stair riser near the sliding door handle.

Your installation looks great! Do you have a pic of the sub in your cockpit? I’ve been wanting to add one but have been unsure about location.
 
Your installation looks great! Do you have a pic of the sub in your cockpit? I’ve been wanting to add one but have been unsure about location.
Thanks. I didn't drill a hole for the sub in the cockpit. I pulled the ice maker out from under the stairs a while back for the extra storage. I had 2 open channels left on one of my amps and tossed a relatively cheap 12" Kicker mounted in a Kicker box inside there with those two channels bridged together. The box was shoved to the back to retain the storage up front. In no way does it provide the punch as the JL subs on the fly bridge, but it is enough to provide some low frequency thump in the cockpit to supplement what is happening up top. Really just did it because it was cheap and simple with everything else in place and the room to easily do it. I really didn't even care that it was not marine grade. I've recently had a discussion with a friend who owns a machine shop. I'm considering taking two 18" long pieces of 1 1/2" stainless bar stock and rounding off each end to a smooth finish. Then clamping 8" wakeboard speakers to each with a pig tail that could be pulled out of the port fuse closet, and starboard fuel valve closet and dropped into my rod holders facing backwards temporarily, on the occasional days that we wanted some behind the boat swimmer's tunes. The speakers could be pulled when not in use and stowed inside somewhere with quick disconnects like you would find on a battery tender plug.
 

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Anchor windlass issue... The bolt what holds the lever broke off, see pics. Did this happen to anybody out there and what is the best way to fix it?
 

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Anchor windlass issue... The bolt what holds the lever broke off, see pics. Did this happen to anybody out there and what is the best way to fix it?
I ended up buying a whole new cover for the windlass. I found one on Ebay that was used. Cost me like 50.00 (ish).
 
Question for the group - I am not at my boat and wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of the Bridge Table (the stock one). I am looking to replace with one of the folding ones to make it simpler to get in an out of seats, but wanted to know what size to order.
 
Question for the group - I am not at my boat and wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of the Bridge Table (the stock one). I am looking to replace with one of the folding ones to make it simpler to get in an out of seats, but wanted to know what size to order.
Just came up one page back - post 3426.
 

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