40 DA Rudder Repack

EKM

Active Member
Feb 4, 2007
674
Beach Haven, NJ
Boat Info
2000 420AC
Engines
Cummins 6CTA
Hello all,
My 97 40 DA rudder is loose (moves forward and aft slightly) and weeps when in the water after tightening the packing nut. The other rudder can not be moved forward and aft by hand. In looking closely at the "loose" rudder, it looks like it has been replaced recently and there is a small nick in the glass. I would assume someone bent it backwards....don't know how? Other than packing, are there any bushings that need to be replaced? It seems like a straight forward job in dropping the rudder or does it just look easy? How many hours should it take to repack? Does anyone know size packing she will take?

My weekend pre-launch work list is getting longer....

Thanks for any guidance.
Ed
 
Ed, Hows the Boat coming along? Iam sure Frank will explore your options shortly. I thought my rudder packing was leaking but under further review it was just good ole fresh water from the hot water heater :smt021 . JC
 
Boat just arrived on Monday from Fl....lots of grease from the trailer axles on the hull and aft of the boat. Shrink wrap guy did not show up...but no rain on the voyage north. I need to finish clean up and then bottom paint (already prepped but ran out of paint) and wax (grease clean up stripped the wax), put the props on and ready for splashdown.

So the boat should be in the water next week....just hope it fits in the slip (read just hope I can will the boat to turn correctly).

I've been reading about your challenges with the boat alarm system...great reading. Boat Gremlins at work.

Regards....Ed
 
JC....on the hot water heater, is the tank leaking of just fittings? I just replaced my heater which was a treat.
Ed
 
Ed, I think the ol'e hot water heater has seen its best days. I just cant make up my mind as to change it now or wait till next next haul out this fall. I get the feeling its a terrible job!!!!!!!!! :smt101 JC
 
It was probably a 6 hour job on the 400DA but I hear the 450 engine room is huge!! You need to remove the exhaust tube and then break down the heater and put the tank in and then re-assemble the heater cover. Stay away from West Marine Heaters as they don't heat very well. Seaward (Boaters World) make a better heater from the posts I've read.

Ed
 
Sorry I can't offer any help on the rudder post question, Ed. But best of luck with the pre-launch list and I'll be thinking of you as you close in on your launch date. Best wishes!
Warren
 
Job is done...no bearings replaceable. 2' of 1/4" packing and one hour. This must be thelLeast expensive project for this size boat :cool:
 
ED, Great news. Youre going to have a fine boat when all is said and done. :smt038 JC
 
Not Quite finished I suspect

Hi EKM:

After repacking the shaft while hauled, you're likely to find that it will still leak when splashed. Keep access open and run your sea trial and do some "doughnuts" working the rudders and then take some more turns on the glands until the dribbles just stops then go for a a nice week end ride, check the gland frequently and take some more in as required.

Just courious, did you repack both rudders at this haul out, or just fix the gremlin?
 
If you haven't done the repack yet, consider using GFO Fiber Packing. After several packing "failures" over the years I tried it and never looked back. gfopacking,com/
 
Thanks for the advice on alt packing but the job is already done. Did you have packing failures on rudder post applications? In pulling out the old packing, it was cut to form 4 rings instead of one continuous piece. Any reason for why this was done this way :huh: ? ? Since I had limited time (bottom paint and waxed over the weekend) I only attacked the leaking one.

How much should this leak prior to breakin?

Thanks....Ed
 
JC....I know you'll get a kick out of this....after replacing the water heater, its leaking again :smt021 . I just love working back there....still not warm enough for a cold shower.

Ed
 
ED, Youve got to be kidding. Still leaking. Let me know what you find! Iam really looking forward (now) to replacing mine :smt021 .
Do you have any pics of your adventure? JC
 
Why Cut Rings

The way the shaft was originally packed was correct. The packing should be cut in to tightly fitting single rings. Some would put teflon paste between each ring. The cut in each ring should be stacked in the gland at least 120 degrees apposed to the first then the second, not allowing two cuts to rest atop the ones below.

When compressed these rings will expand and seal the cuts and compress atop each other. The rings will run cooler and will be less prone to leaking profusely over time. One thing for sure will be the coil of packing will take a lot more compression to get a good seal.

A continous spiral might be okay for a rudder but should never be use for a running shaft.

My traditionist gut tells me you maybe redoing that rudder again soon if you used a coil approach.
 
My failures were with 2" drive shafts. I spoke with two GFO reps in separate offices. I remember -clean out the packing and all grease. Don't add any grease and it was O.K. that I could only get 3 or4 rings in where there had been 5. Five years and about 400 hrs. later they were still dry.
 
So much for listening to the marina guys...they said the individual rings was incorrect and the cause of the leak. If it leaks too much, can you repack in the water? Thinking about putting a hose clamp on the rudder post to hold it in place after the gland is removed. I did not look if there is clearance for this approach.

I let you know if it leaks

Thanks....Ed
 

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