370 DA Port Hole Screens

SillyKnot2

SillyKnot2

Member
Mar 30, 2008
194
VT
Boat Info
1998 370DA
Engines
454's
Anyone had any luck replacing the screens on the 3 oval windows? I started the project looked at my watch and decided I didn't have enough material (beer) to go ahead full steam. Took out the 4 exterior screws and cut the silicone sealant but it appeared that a secondary chrome frame moved independantly from the screwed on frame. Quickly resealed and went to the store. Decided it would be best to ask for advise.
 
If your windows are anything like mine you do not need to remove the window in order to replace the screens. The inside has a rubber gasket which the port seals against when locked. This gasket can be removed and you'll see the screen is attached to this gasket. I simply removed the old screen and what I assume was caulk. I bought nylon screen at the store, cut it to match and attached it back with silicon caulk. Hope this helps!
 
Ping Y Ynot, he did this in his 290, same size window I think. He did not pull the window, did it somehow w/out having to.
 
SillyKnot2 said:
Anyone had any luck replacing the screens on the 3 oval windows? I started the project looked at my watch and decided I didn't have enough material (beer) to go ahead full steam. Took out the 4 exterior screws and cut the silicone sealant but it appeared that a secondary chrome frame moved independantly from the screwed on frame. Quickly resealed and went to the store. Decided it would be best to ask for advise.
Click to expand...

they sell replacement gasket + screen kit
remove old gasket and screen and glue new one using
3M Rubber And Gasket Adhesive 847 or something similar
 
Where can I order the screen/seals from? I'm looking on the GG Schmitt page but they don't list a seperate part for the screen/seals.
 
I got the screening from Home Depot. I re-used the seals. Be carefully when removing them. Use some silicone to hold them and the screen in place when you reinstall
 
Aarrhh & Aarrhh said:
I could really stand to replace the seals on mine. They can be a real pain!
Click to expand...

it is easy if you follow those steps:

use Gasket Adhesive not silicone - silicone takes too long to cure and doesn't really stick to stainless steel frame

put few drops of Gasket Adhesive on frame and loosely attach screen to it, let it dry for minute or two

now put some more Gasket Adhesive on frame (thru screen material) and press new gasket (try to install gasket seam on top of porthole frame)

close porthole and you are done - it should take about 5 mins to install new screen and gasket
removing old one can be pita
 
Hi, Completed mine last week from Sea Ray.
Just yank the large rubber gasket / screen from the inside and than clean the glue off the metal frame and attach the new screens. They come with tape over the glue just place into the window and pull plastic tape from behind as you push the screen gasket in. The window will be tight to close but will loosen up after a few days. Good luck. John G.
 
JohnEGraham said:
Hi, Completed mine last week from Sea Ray.
Just yank the large rubber gasket / screen from the inside and than clean the glue off the metal frame and attach the new screens. They come with tape over the glue just place into the window and pull plastic tape from behind as you push the screen gasket in. The window will be tight to close but will loosen up after a few days. Good luck. John G.
Click to expand...

You purchased the screen/gasket from SR? Just out of curiosity - how much were they?

To the post on silicone on the window frame - I did mine about 6 months ago and they are holding up perfectly. I used 3M silicone - went on white and was supposed to dry clean but you can still sort of see the color in the few areas where I didn't clean up the excess as well as I should.
 
I did mine this summer too. As mentioned you do this job from the inside once the port is opened. (If you did remove that exterior flashing reseal it carefully with a good sealant - not silicone - as this is a common spot for water penetration and other nasty problems which I will not mention here). Carefully, remove the rubber gasket as it can usually be reused. With some scouting around I was able to find lovely stainless steel window screening locally which looks super from the exterior when the job is completed if you install it flat and wrinkle free.

Pre-cut the screening into an oval shape (oversized so it will fit into the area occupied by the gasket. Then to preform the rigid screening by gently pressing the screen (dry) into place keeping the exposed area flat and the section that will be hidden is bent slightlyconvex to fit the groove occupied by the gasket. Once the groove is totally clean and the old adhesive is fully removed, will the adhesive/sealant be applied. To my recollection I used black 3M #4200. Place a generous (but not excessive) amount of adhesive into the cleaned groove and also onto the clean and soon to be hidden part of the gasket proper. THis way BOTH sides of the screen will be glued into place. Assemble the stainless screen under the gasket with the pre-applied adhesive on it keeping it flat, hold it for a minute or two until it sets. If you get any adhesive onto the screen clean it up NOW with acetone - one person inside and another outside pressing gently. Once completed close the window and dog it down until it's fully cured. Voila, finished! Beautiful, shiny 'new' window screens!
Good luck,
Warren
 
I did the same as most people here. The one thing I did differently (1997 250) is that I coated the (plexi?) glass in wax paper before closing it and let it stand over night. I'm never very good about using sticky stuff and keeping everything clean, so this protected the glass from the goo. I used a razor blade to spruce it up the next day.

I also used the solvent before it dried to attempt at a clean finish. Bottom line - Beautiful finished product.
 
JohnEGraham, does the rubber gasket have to go behind the metal frame on the window, or does it just seal against the screen and the outside of the frame. Also does your window have a round head scred on the handel. That is one of the reasons I need to change my screens. The round head screw put a hole in gthe screen.
 
I'm about to try this repair on my 1998 330 Sundancer. The gasket came out fairly easily with the help of a large screwdriver. I bought some special screen from home depot that is designed and marketed to be dog-claw proof. It is substantially thicker than anything else on the shelves and appears to be coated in some sort of polyurethane. I have nieces and newphews who can help brushing their little shoes against the screens when walking up to the foredeck, so I hope dog-proof is strong enough. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.
 
I also need to do this repair. I was shopping Home Dep. today and all they had for screen material was plastic or aluminum. I was hoping for stainless steel. I will keep lookin.
 
I'm curious how many boaters actually use open these windows during normal use. I've owned boats for a long time and I can't remember the last time I opened the port hole windows other than to repair them for leaks or screen repair.

BTW I finally gave up repairing the screens on my current boat and simply cut them out with a razor knife. It has a much cleaner look with the screens removed.

-John
 
I thought of deleting them also...We do open them for ventalation along with the overhead hatches while anchored out. I do not run the genny while sleeping.
 
I just finished replacing the rubber seals and screens on my boat. I bought replacement kits from a company call " Bomar". It cost me $23.00/kit. I have a 97' 370DA Searay which all the screens where torn out when I bought it. I took out the old rubber gasket and replaced it with one that had a groove all around the inside of the gasket. Detachable screens came with the kit. Part #P100-04-RETRO.
 
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