340 SUNDANCER THREAD

I took out my cockpit ice maker and tried to salvage it but it is too far gone. So,... any sugestions as to what to fill the hole with? there is a ton of space back there and I would like to see how others have utilized this area after removing the icemaker. I also considered replacing it with a frig....what one to put in there???
On my 380 it was replaced by a Norcold refrigerator Model DE 0751 B
 
Aloha,
The hose in mine plugs in on the corner of the dinnette facing the mid salon area. there should be a lift up flap and the hose plugs in there. after the switches are on, putting the hose in activates the vacuum.
 
Are the lights (2) in the radar arch a sealed unit that is replaced in total or does the lens come off and expose a bulb that is swapped out? the lens seems to be on there pretty good. before i get tough on it, i wanted to see if that was the right thing to do.

Dwight
 
Hawaii340, the lens does come off / apart. Just be gentle with it. West Marine sells replacement parts for them. I have replaced a few lens covers because they were cloudy looking. Unscrew the two phillips head screws drop the whole fixture down, letting it hang by the wires, and gently pry the lens off and you should be good.
 
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Thank you.
 
Ok, I opened up the arch lights and it turned out i just needed to spin them and they came on. I opened up the running lights. one needed turned and the other was blown. However, I did while anchored and i knocked the white trim/housing overboard. it sank and by the time i jumped in to get it, it was gone.

it isn't necessary it seems, but does anyone know if I can get a replacement one for a 14 year old boat?

Dwight
 
Ok, I was able to open the arch lights and just turning them turned them on.

I opened up the running lights. one worked after turning it and the other one was shot. However, when i opened one, i knocked it overboard. by the time i jumped in with snorkel equipment, it was gone.

does anyone know where i can get a replacement running light and/or trim?
 
[I took out my cockpit ice maker and tried to salvage it but it is too far gone. So,... any sugestions as to what to fill the hole with? there is a ton of space back there and I would like to see how others have utilized this area after removing the icemaker. I also considered replacing it with a frig....what one to put in there???[/QUOTE]
I would be interested in what others have done as well. I have the same boat and the cockpit freezer is not used and just filling up space. Thanks
 
[I took out my cockpit ice maker and tried to salvage it but it is too far gone. So,... any sugestions as to what to fill the hole with? there is a ton of space back there and I would like to see how others have utilized this area after removing the icemaker. I also considered replacing it with a frig....what one to put in there???
I would be interested in what others have done as well. I have the same boat and the cockpit freezer is not used and just filling up space. Thanks[/QUOTE]

We have a OEM refrig there... It is very usefull...
 
I bought some new TACO PVC Rub Rail from G02Marine yesterday... I plan to replace some of my damaged rub rail... Anyone have experiance with replacing rub rail? Anything I need to know, tricks, lessons learned???

85656F-p.gif
 
[I took out my cockpit ice maker and tried to salvage it but it is too far gone. So,... any sugestions as to what to fill the hole with? there is a ton of space back there and I would like to see how others have utilized this area after removing the icemaker. I also considered replacing it with a frig....what one to put in there???
I would be interested in what others have done as well. I have the same boat and the cockpit freezer is not used and just filling up space.
Thanks[/QUOTE]
see post 953 for what I did.
 
Anyone replace rub rail??? I must not be the only one who has let their wife dock the boat....
 
Replaced mine on my 290.Let son in law dock it ,big mistake.After removing stainless inserts and rub rail I cleaned all old caulk with old plastic hotel keys.Filled all old holes with 5200.Reinstalled new rub rail added 5200 to area were new screws are installed.Used elec heat gun for areas where it went around bends Added 5200 where screws went for stainless insert before installing screws.Used regular white caulk to seal rub rail to boat.
 
I am expressing my frustration with my 2002 340 Sundancer with the 8.1 Mercs! The engine compartment in this boat cannot be engineered any worse for normal service! I cannot even reach the seacock and sea strainer for the AC pump, let alone the AC pump. The raw water pump on the starboard engine cannot be reached to replace the impeller....it is a complete disaster! There is absolutely no physical way to get between many components without taking things apart! I have owned this boat only a few months and am now considering selling it! I have owned nine different boats over the years of varying makes and have never experienced this poor of a layout of the engine compartment. Even my old Bayliner that I owned many years ago was much better!
Rob
 
Rob,

I share your pain (and scrapes and bruises too...). I was able to remediate many of these issues by relocating the batteries and rerouting the exhaust, along with some other changes as well. But, you are right, it's damn tight down there, especially with the 8.1s. The 6.2s leave a lot more room for service, but they are deficient in other respects.

For the AC pump and strainer, I usually corkscrew myself between the engines, as far forward as possible, and kneel between them. Then I can reach the strainer easily. I have a special long handle I made up to reach the seacock, from outside the engine room. Not having the batteries between the engines is a big help here.

For the water pumps, I remove the 2 center exhaust hoses, and step between the engines. Water pump access is pretty good from this position, but again, I don't have to contend with the batteries anymore.

The bottom line is that it's a small engine room for 8.1s and V-drives, but it does help to build patience, character, and anger management skills!!!

Dale
 
I am expressing my frustration with my 2002 340 Sundancer with the 8.1 Mercs! The engine compartment in this boat cannot be engineered any worse for normal service! I cannot even reach the seacock and sea strainer for the AC pump, let alone the AC pump. The raw water pump on the starboard engine cannot be reached to replace the impeller....it is a complete disaster! There is absolutely no physical way to get between many components without taking things apart! I have owned this boat only a few months and am now considering selling it! I have owned nine different boats over the years of varying makes and have never experienced this poor of a layout of the engine compartment. Even my old Bayliner that I owned many years ago was much better!
Rob

Rob, didn't you bother to open the engine hatch before you bought your boat? You seem so surprised about the layout????
 
Rob, didn't you bother to open the engine hatch before you bought your boat? You seem so surprised about the layout????

I did, however, it is one thing standing on the deck looking into the engine compartment, and yes, still realizing it was tight, but it is another thing when you go to squeeze your body in to reach specific items that you need to access. The first issue I had with the boat was an electrical issue, and then I realized you cannot reach the bulkhead mounted breaker panel in the bilge! There is literally no room between the engines and the deck floor to allow you to drop your body down in front of this panel. The previously mentioned seacock and strainer is below this panel to port at the bottom of the bilge, so if you can't reach the panel, you certainly can't reach this! I told my wife if a hose ever bursts on this boat, we are abandoning ship because you couldn't close the seacock and the boat is going down! I may be whining to an extent out of frustration (yes I can admit it!), but I am a "hands on" type of person and like to tinker with all the systems and be sure everything is top notch and great working order.
Rob
 
Rob,

I share your pain (and scrapes and bruises too...). I was able to remediate many of these issues by relocating the batteries and rerouting the exhaust, along with some other changes as well. But, you are right, it's damn tight down there, especially with the 8.1s. The 6.2s leave a lot more room for service, but they are deficient in other respects.

For the AC pump and strainer, I usually corkscrew myself between the engines, as far forward as possible, and kneel between them. Then I can reach the strainer easily. I have a special long handle I made up to reach the seacock, from outside the engine room. Not having the batteries between the engines is a big help here.

For the water pumps, I remove the 2 center exhaust hoses, and step between the engines. Water pump access is pretty good from this position, but again, I don't have to contend with the batteries anymore.

The bottom line is that it's a small engine room for 8.1s and V-drives, but it does help to build patience, character, and anger management skills!!!

Dale
Dale
I appreciate all you have done on your 340, but you are by far beyond my skill set! I have tried to find ways to reach things, however, without re-routing exhaust lines and moving batteries, how do people work on this boat? I assume you can pull the retaining pin on the hatch and push it in a full upright position which would help access to the front of the engines for belt work, etc., however, still not sure how to access the starboard seawater pump since it is between the engines and tucked down under the fuel filter. I guess you could pull the batteries to give yourself access to that panel in front of the engines? I know these impellers have been changed according to the service records, but I guess I need to see it done by someone who knows what they are doing so I can figure this out. By the way, I love your blog! Lots of good information there, but as I mentioned, many of the things you have done are beyond my skills. Thanks for the input!
Rob
 
Transmission Temperature - Does anyone know how to tell if your transmission is overheating? According to the manual, one of the buzzer alarms that can sound is for overheating transmission, but I have no way of knowing how to tell if I have a problem. The other buzzers, lack of oil pressure, overheating engines, etc, can easily be checked by gauges. The reason I ask is that I had the buzzer go off intermittently last time I was out and the only thing I could tie it to was each time I advanced the throttles, it would sound for a few seconds and then quit. All my gauges read normal ranges. If there was a problem, should the buzzer continue to sound? (Mine did not.) Or, do I have a screwed up buzzer that has me chasing my tail??
Rob
 
Rob,

I share your pain (and scrapes and bruises too...). I was able to remediate many of these issues by relocating the batteries and rerouting the exhaust, along with some other changes as well. But, you are right, it's damn tight down there, especially with the 8.1s. The 6.2s leave a lot more room for service, but they are deficient in other respects.

For the AC pump and strainer, I usually corkscrew myself between the engines, as far forward as possible, and kneel between them. Then I can reach the strainer easily. I have a special long handle I made up to reach the seacock, from outside the engine room. Not having the batteries between the engines is a big help here.

For the water pumps, I remove the 2 center exhaust hoses, and step between the engines. Water pump access is pretty good from this position, but again, I don't have to contend with the batteries anymore.

The bottom line is that it's a small engine room for 8.1s and V-drives, but it does help to build patience, character, and anger management skills!!!

Dale

Dale
Do you have any pics of your battery setup? I reviewed your blog again for more information, and there doesn't seem to be too many details on this area. Did you put any type of circuit isolation in such as relays? I would like to isolate my starting batteries from the house. It appears that Sea Ray did isolate most of the house to the port side with the two battery setup, but the starboard side still carries the stereo. My concern is sitting on the hook for an extended time with the fridges pulling down the port side and the stereo pulling down the starboard, and no power when time to leave! I believe the gen battery is isolated and I could start the gen and power up the charger and go from there, but makes me uneasy to think about that if for some reason the gen battery would go bad. I would be interested in your take on this area.
Rob
 

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