340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Meemar said:
Has anyone put together an Annual Maintenance List/Tracker spreadsheet?
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I purchased my 2004 34 brand new, it now has 535 hours on the engines, as for a annual maintenance list, I would start with spring prep.
1. Wash/wax hull two coats
2. I have always stored my boat with empty gas tanks so i filled them with fresh gas each spring usually 20 gallons of high test, then fill the tanks once i splash the boat.
3. 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil in each tank and dextron during the season.
4. I purchased strainer caps with hose connectors and i run the engines and generator for about 1/2 with fresh water in the fall and spring.
5. Complete cleaning of the engine engine, wipe down with mixture of bleach and water to stop any mold.
6. spray the engine with T-9 spray to stop any rust use 1 can
7. New zincs of course
8. wash cockpit and wax, all my seats are stored away each winter and sprayed with vinyl protective.
9. bottom is lightly sanded and repainted with West Marine PCA ablative paint. the 34 will take 1.75 gallons the last quart i cover the water lines and bow. though the paint is multi seasonal, i have found in the northeast and the area that i boat in it does need to be repainted in the areas that wash off more.
Splash time.
The fall
1. engines and generator oil and filters are changed every year.
2. engines and generator are run with fresh water 1/2 on each also the AC
3. engines and generator are winterized with -50 antifreeze.
4. water system is emptied and blown out with air compressor
5. engine room is cleaned and sprayed down with bleach water mixture to keep mold from forming
6. interior cabin cleaned and all cabinet doors open and dehumifier bags hung in the cabin (4)
7. Batteries taken out and put in house basement to be charged during the winter months
8. Boat hull is wash and waxed 1 coat this time
General inspection, i have replaced the water imprellers on the generator, engines and have the manifolds and risers replaced every 5 years. I am very proud to say my boat is mint I even sold it for a day this year, for 100K, but when i thought about downsizing to a 27 Grady White for $170,000 I figured i just spend the money on a detailer who will be washing and waxing my boat on Saturday for the first time in 17 years. The 34 is an awesome boat if taken care of and will give you and your family memories for forever. Good luck and all the best.
 
I am stumped ... 2007 340 Sundancer with 8.1 inboards. Upon launch, the port engine alternator seized and the serpentine belt broke. Alternator was replaced, new belt installed; ;however, during installation we forgot to turn off batteries. The batteries are new as of May 2020 btw. We quickly realized the batteries were on when we had a small spark. Shut down batteries and finished the installation. Now here is the issue: The port engine will NOT start without using the parallel emergency switch. SO strange. The throttles and shifters are all in neutral and down. The batteries have all been checked and load tested -- no problems still 12.8 volts. The 50amp fuse on engine is not tripped -- the little white toggle bar is up so all good. The 20amp and 15 amp fuses on the engine under the flame arrestor have all been checked and are good. When the port engine switch is turned on it doesn't even beep until I use the emergency parallel switch. What could possibly be the problem? Thank you in advance.
 
The roll was for hatches. I ended up purchasing the gaskets from go marine. Problem is they seem a lot thicker than the originals. I made it work. Interestjngly there was literally only a thin line of caulking around the very edge of the exterior hatch plate. I ended up filling it up with caulk when I put it back together.
 

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bfernald0 said:
The roll was for hatches. I ended up purchasing the gaskets from go marine. Problem is they seem a lot thicker than the originals. I made it work. Interestjngly there was literally only a thin line of caulking around the very edge of the exterior hatch plate. I ended up filling it up with caulk when I put it back together.
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I am still looking for the gasket that goes between the glass and frame inside the boat (where the screen goes), did you find that gasket?
 
If you go to www.go2marine.com and search for Bomar gasket, you'll find the retro gasket and screen set mentioned on here for 50 bucks. It also lists the Bomar s616 model number. I don't need the screen as you'll note you can buy the gasket for the s616 separately. I bought 5 as I intend to redo all five portlights. I started with the head which was leaking the worst. The gasket fit perfectly in terms of length and width, but in terms of depth it was thicker. Not sure if i installed it wrong or if the original was just extremely flattened out after 20 years. I made it work but the window is now extremely tight to close even with the latches backed all the way out.

You'll note an s718 gasket in the same page for 17 bucks. I bought one just to see if it would fit better. Will post when i find out.
 
Thank you

Mine is that flattened. When I bought thr boat, the screens were installed and windows closed. I am thinking they left it that way for years and that’s what they leak so bad. I wedged a quarter or 2 between the glass and the latch to stop it from leaking, and that’s worked so far, I just want to eliminate the Hoosier look, lol
bfernald0 said:
If you go to www.go2marine.com and search for Bomar gasket, you'll find the retro gasket and screen set mentioned on here for 50 bucks. It also lists the Bomar s616 model number. I don't need the screen as you'll note you can buy the gasket for the s616 separately. I bought 5 as I intend to redo all five portlights. I started with the head which was leaking the worst. The gasket fit perfectly in terms of length and width, but in terms of depth it was thicker. Not sure if i installed it wrong or if the original was just extremely flattened out after 20 years. I made it work but the window is now extremely tight to close even with the latches backed all the way out.

You'll note an s718 gasket in the same page for 17 bucks. I bought one just to see if it would fit better. Will post when i find out.
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Here's what it looks like installed.
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Chris-380 said:
Thank you

Mine is that flattened. When I bought thr boat, the screens were installed and windows closed. I am thinking they left it that way for years and that’s what they leak so bad. I wedged a quarter or 2 between the glass and the latch to stop it from leaking, and that’s worked so far, I just want to eliminate the Hoosier look, lol
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Captain Spike said:
Sure. I used a 24” LG tv and a desk mount for computer monitor. I’ll send a couple of pics. It is on the Pullout and can swivel in any direction so from the bed, dining take aft stateroom it’s nicely visible.
I did something similar in my Motorhome and it held up very well.
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Looks awesome thank you
 
bfernald0 said:
If you go to www.go2marine.com and search for Bomar gasket, you'll find the retro gasket and screen set mentioned on here for 50 bucks. It also lists the Bomar s616 model number. I don't need the screen as you'll note you can buy the gasket for the s616 separately. I bought 5 as I intend to redo all five portlights. I started with the head which was leaking the worst. The gasket fit perfectly in terms of length and width, but in terms of depth it was thicker. Not sure if i installed it wrong or if the original was just extremely flattened out after 20 years. I made it work but the window is now extremely tight to close even with the latches backed all the way out.

You'll note an s718 gasket in the same page for 17 bucks. I bought one just to see if it would fit better. Will post when i find out.
Click to expand...
I can definitively state that the s718 gaskets don't fit the portlights. Far too large.
 
JUST LOOKIN said:
Sold my 2006 34 Sundnacer :( Have the following left for sale: PM me if your interested. Thanks
1 Custom made shade For a 34 Sundancer www.ttopcovers.com/products/ultimate-boat-shade
1 Custom made Mattress for forward birth 6" therapeutic 34 Sundancer
24 AC Delco Platinum spark plugs for 8.1 engines
2 8X20 talyormade fenders new in bag
1 Fuel Gauge 00-00555-000
1 Mercury Impeller Kit - 47-862232A 2
1 Marinco Shore Power Adapter 30A Boat to 15A Dock1 Top-Snapper
1 8 HP 2 Stroke Yamaha great condition
1 8 HP 2 Stroke Yamaha good condition - needs to be repainted
1 Taylor made Dock Box 72X24X22
1 ICOM IC- M36 Floating VHF
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Did you sell that Matress ? If it’s gone, do you recall where you got it ?
 
HI
Does anyone have 6.2 MPI Petrols with fresh water flush built in?
I am wondering how we should use it as cant find any instructions as dont want to flood or damage the engine
 
Windlass issue now UGH! Everything worked perfectly last week. Now, the windlass brings the anchor UP no problem. However, it will not drop the anchor. I goes for 2 seconds then stops and just spins. The chain is not balled up. Even when I remove it all from the gypsy wheel and manually drop the anchor it won’t even let out the nylon rode — it just spins but no issues bring it back up. Suggestions for issue and fix? Thank you in advance.
 
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