340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Normal 194 white LED from amazon. Had to but the new twist on bases cause the boats are so old. But works fine.
 
Normal 194 white LED from amazon. Had to but the new twist on bases cause the boats are so old. But works fine.

thanks....how many did it take to do all the gauges?....

cliff
 
I am thinking about replacing my rocker switches with these....they have a light and a pictogram to show the function as well as a description of the function....

cliff
printed-rocker-switches-min.jpg
 
Any of you replaced the dash backlighting? I have all LEDs in the gauges and the dimmer works awesome still. But the back lighting is all not working so at night I can’t read what buttons do what... then looking today on flounder pounder they have replacement lighting to work with stock connections.

Anyone tried these? Know what lenght?
I need to fix mine also. impossible to see at night
 
The problem with those switches is they only light when on.... which does not help you find the switch you want in the dark..


One light per gauge.
 

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The problem with those switches is they only light when on.... which does not help you find the switch you want in the dark..


One light per gauge.

looks nice....let us know if you figure out the switch lights...

cliff
 
So where could I find a spare storage locker door? The one under the passenger bench at the helm....

Any ideas? Just need the door.
 
So where could I find a spare storage locker door? The one under the passenger bench at the helm....

Any ideas? Just need the door.

I'd be inclined to make one. Likely far cheaper. Otherwise, Flounderpounder is generally regarded as a good first stop when looking for just about anything on our boats...
 
you could make one easily out of 1/2" thick white starboard....you can buy remnants of starboard on e-bay for cheap.....if you mount the subwoofer in that area you could cut a couple slots in the door to make the storage locker a ported sub box....

cliff
 
The problem with those switches is they only light when on.... which does not help you find the switch you want in the dark..

I do believe they make Carling switches with 2 lights one for night illumination and one for state. They are upper and lower lights.

-Kevin
 
If you had switches for night alumination the one gauge lights would have to be on, same as the backlights but 14 switch’s is a lot more then 2 lights... just my thoughts.


As far as the door. I tested a sub in a box inside that comartment. And it was like a megaphone sounded really good..... with the door open... if you shut it it was not so good and causes lots of rattles. So my debate is free air wet sounds sub mounted in factory location (I have to cut the hole) and then hope a free air sub sounds as good.. or buy second door. And cut vents .. maybe the searay logo or somethjng in thendoor to allow it to vent and still be shut.. that’s my debate.
 
Checked out Boat outfitters, stuff is cheap to make new door... called searay and Boat outfitters made the factory door... so have them trying to find the drawing and maybe just buy the 11x21 peace as an exact fit with vents cut...

Still in debate would rather have sub where you see it but just have never seen or heard of a free air sounding good.. but I wil say if One was going to work that location seems perfect. It’s a total giant box with small area open at back.
 
I have a JL free air sub mounted under the helm seat as many do. It sounds very good (in my opinion). Plenty of low end for the entire boat for the average guy. I had thoughts of having a second before installing but quickly realized that one was more than enough for my needs.

When we're anchored and swimming with the music "substantially loud" I leave the storage compartment door open. It will rattle something fierce when running high volumes. Under normal listening conditions while underway the rattle is not an issue though.

I've had thoughts of cutting a vent in the door. I just haven't gotten around to it yet...
 
'It’s a total giant box with small area open at back.'

until you start storing things in the space.....then the open space diminishes considerably and the path to the opening in the back of the space becomes obstructed for the air from the sub movement to follow out of the space...

cliff
 
So having done the free air would you do it again or do a Box/sub inside?
 
So having done the free air would you do it again or do a Box/sub inside?

I'd do it again in a second. The free air JL sounds amazing. My only complaint is the silly door rattle. Something I can remedy...I just haven't yet.
 
Well I tried a bazooka 8” under the seat. It can slide all the way under the ice bucket firing towards the larger side of the cabinet.. sounds pretty good for that. But the door needs to be opened.. so I can cut vents if I got his route. Then tried a bazooka 10” it sounded better. But nothugky better, But can’t fit under ice bucket barley to wide..so only can fit one and has to be in main area.

So my option is wet sounds 10” 4ohm free air cut like factory... or 2- 8” (8ohm) bazooka tubes in parallel (4ohm) one under ice firing out and One in back of same locker main part firing into wall of where factory soeakr is and vent the door.

I have a wet sounds 10” coming, I plan to make a fake door, mount sub in fake door so I can test the sound of using a free air in that cabinet before I cut the hole..if as good as what I got from the either bazooka I will go with it. If not will go with tubes in locker/vented door.
 
good luck....are you sure the size of the door to the storage under the seat is large enough to hold a 10" sub?....are you even going to try to a sub designed for a ported box?.....that's what I have and I like its performance a lot.....

cliff
 
The door is 12.5 tall and 22 wide. So a 10 should fit on a panel to test.

The sub I am trying is a Wet Sounds 10” 4ohm free air/IB sub. If I do go with it and mount it... I will play with a real sub in same hole just to see.
 

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