340 DA 2000 - Cutlass and shaft

[Kimpa]

Hello!

I bought my 2000 340 DA two years ago, the old owner have changed both props to 5-blade (for slow speed fuel economy) and also the shafts/cutlass and the shaft seals in the boat.

Late this summer i went for a swim and started to clean the hull/propps/rudder and such from thin layer of organic stuff when the boat was in the water.

I stood on the bottom while i pushed the propp and shaft uppwards to feel any clearance and i did.

The clearance was around max 1mm on the port side and the other side was solid.

Does anybody know if this is OK clearance for a couple of seasons? or do you think i should Change the cutlass this season?

Now when the boat is up on land i can turn the port side shaft with prop with medium force and the other one is quite hard to turn.

What do you guys think?


Thanks! / Kim

 

[Air O'Nautical]

Spray some water in/on the front of the bearing because it’s water lubricated and normally harder to turn dry.
If one is still hard to spin, its likely out of alignment.
(Check engine to flange tolerances to correct)

There’s normally not much play of the shaft in the bearing.
1mm of play sounds like enough to replace it.

I’d replace both and have both engines aligned when back in the water.

 

[Kimpa]

Spray some water in/on the front of the bearing because it’s water lubricated and normally harder to turn dry.
If one is still hard to spin, its likely out of alignment.
(Check engine to flange tolerances to correct)

There’s normally not much play of the shaft in the bearing.
1mm of play sounds like enough to replace it.

I’d replace both and have both engines aligned when back in the water.

Thanks for the tip! I will do that when it get's a little warmer outside.