330 Sundancer Sub Location

H

hd2002hd

Member
Jul 20, 2010
457
St. Louis
Boat Info
1996-Sea Ray 215 Express Cruiser/1996-Sea Ray 330 Sundancer/1998-Sea Ray 400 Sundancer/1996-Sea Rayd
Engines
5.7 Mercruiser/454's/454's w/V drive/120HP
I'm interested in what others have done with the stereo installation on their 330. Especially a good set of subs. I currently have a 10" mounted in the side panel by the captains leg. I'm assuming it is a free air sub. Any installation ideas, pics or advice appreciated. I would like to have 2 subs. I would prefer 12's, but realize 10's are probably all that would work. I possibly would be interested in putting a single 10" JL Audio W7 sub, but this would take a 1.25 cu. ft. sealed compartment somewhere. I don't mind building a box and sealing it, but a good area that will allow a box this size might be tough to find. Curious what other systems people have installed.
 
So, where are you going to put them?
 
hd2002hd,

I saw this set-up on the same year 330 as mine. I will be copying this installation this spring. I assume it is an infinite baffle sub.

0718001252b.jpg
 
Yeah, I saw that setup in another thread as well. I wonder how good they work. It's hard to beat a sealed box. If I'm springing for a good set of JL's, I want them to be set up so they can perform as expected. That may be a great setup. I've never heard them though. I realize sometimes you have to compromise as well.
 
hd2002hd said:
Yeah, I saw that setup in another thread as well. I wonder how good they work. It's hard to beat a sealed box. If I'm springing for a good set of JL's, I want them to be set up so they can perform as expected. That may be a great setup. I've never heard them though. I realize sometimes you have to compromise as well.
Click to expand...

​


I hear you. I have a big "To Do" list on the boat as well as my home. I am looking to improve performance but need to be expeditious about it. Just this spring I need to:
-R&R my dual mount to send it back to Seaview for re-application of the powder coat
-Have My radar arch re-painted while it's off
-Install my new stereo system, including: Clarion M309 and wired remote, Key farb RF remote, 4 new JL amps, 2 new speaker installations in fwd bulkhead in cabin as well as 2-4 more 6.5's in the
cockpit, 2 -8" JBL sub's in the cabin and 1- JL 10" sub in the cockpit
-Install my new Garmin 3205 into my dash networked with my Garmin 3006c as a back-up unit
-Install BluRay player with a powered HDMI splitter and network both cabin TV's to it
-Lastly I will run the wires to feed my KVH Tracvision into the stereo for movie night at the beach!

So, as you can see, If I can avoid building a box for my sub, I have to! Keep us posted on what you choose.
 
I have two JL free air or infinite baffle subs in mine and they sound great. However it still requires a baffle or separation of the front and rear of the speaker. Essentially the FA sub uses the imperfect space behind it as an enclosure. A sealed or ported enclosure, depending on speaker should be more effecient and there for louder with the same power or require less. In my case I went with FA and threw as much power at it as I could, it was easy and sounds great. I have never analyzed the spectrum or measured the db but I know you can't talk at volume, it rattles hind teeth and I've had noise complaints from folks that live more than a quarter mile away. I don't do that anymore, it's kind of like owning a really fast car with a 55 mph speed limit- sucks although no one gets hurt when I drink and drive it! ;-)
 
tdschafer, Where are you going to put the 4 amps? I understand the factory amp is in a locker in the midcabin?? I'm also interested in where you are mounting your subs. I have an Alpine M600 wired in series driving 2 12" Kenwood subs in sealed boxes I built for my other boat. Thinking about using the Alpine in the 330. It is a little much for the Kenwoods, plus with no genny after about 30 miuntes it drains the batteries enough where it shuts down when it hits hard. Start the engine and get it charging normal and it is fine. I was considering putting a Stinger battery in it in addition to the 2 I already had. Had a great deal ($300 regularly about $700) on the biggest one they make, but it wouldn't fit. Huge battery. Weighed 85#. Anyway, I want to keep the factory look as much as possible, so I want to conceal as much as possible. I also wan to install Ipod controls in the cockpit and on the transom. Not sure what head unit yet. I have a Kenwood with USB, but it is difficult at best to manuever through the Iphone/Ipod menus. You have to disconnect to use the Iphone/Ipod controls on the devices to avoid the Kenwood menes (pita). I'm really interested in the way others have set up their boats and of course, pictures always help.
 
Ok, first the 4 subs. It will be easiest to mount them in the mid cabin locker too. I'm going to mount them on a board covered in the same material as the closet. Then I can just mount the board to the fwd wall of that closet. I will then cover another board to put over it and mount it to the base board with spacers to give it a nice finished look and allow the amps to breathe. Plus, I can see all of the lights on the amps by just opening the closet. I can then re-mount the closet pole by just shortening it. This will keep the closet factory looking!

I am considering building a box for the JBL's and covering that too in the factory vinyl. I would like it to slide back under the mid-cabin seating. I have the factory specs on the box it will require. This way I dont have to give up valuable storage space currently being utilized. I had originally thought about mounting them under the dinette but have since decided against that due to the aforementioned reason.

If you haven't picked a head unit yet, Earmark marine recommended an Alpine unit that utilizes RF ID3 tag remotes which eliminates the wiring debacle. Unfortunately that was out of my price range at this time but, it really looked like a great option. This way you can put your remote at the helm and transom without much difficulty. I was able to get around this by getting a key farb RF remote. This way if I am on the dock or tethered off the stern at anchor I have full control (Without ID) of my stereo.
I went with the M309 for a couple of reasons. When I originally looked into changing my system, this is the one that had all of the options I wanted. Being that it is an older model, the prices really came down too. I also was able to purchase an adapter relatively cheaply to marry the old 6 Disc changer to the newer CNet configuration. This way if I drop my Ipod in the bay (AGAIN!) I will always have some back-up.

Let me state for the record, I love my music but I am no audio profile. Some of this set-up may not be the best, but I think it will work for my needs. I did consult a professional as to where to place some of the components here. I am hoping to get some help from him on the installation too.
 
I"m bringing this post back to life. I'm looking to upgrade my stereo in my 1997 330 over the winter. I am having a hard time deciding what to do with the sub. I would like to do 1-10" or 1-12" sub. I would really prefer not to use a free air sub mounted in the side of the cockpit. I'd rather use a sealed box and find a sub with a low cubic inch requirement. The two places that I'm considering is either under the sink in the locker on the port side, behind the fridge, or under the helm seat. There is plenty of room under the seat, however, I am limited to a 7" thick box. Anything bigger and I am not able to get it to fit down into the opening. I do not want a tremendous amount of bass, just enough to be musical and know that its there.

Do any of you have photos of your install to help me make some decisions? I'm definitely going to mount the amps in the mid-cabin locker on the starboard side.

Thanks for your help!
 
osubob said:
I would like to do 1-10" or 1-12" sub. I would really prefer not to use a free air sub mounted in the side of the cockpit. I'd rather use a sealed box and find a sub with a low cubic inch requirement.
Click to expand...
JL Audio M10W5 may work for you and JL suggest a 0.5 - 1.0 cuft enclosure.

I would like to hear from any player here that has tried a M10W5 in a 0.5 cuft enclosure. Did it meet your expectations?

DSC00185.jpg
 
HiFi, thanks for the response. It's hard to tell from the photo, where did you mount the subs in the boat?
 
osubob said:
HiFi, thanks for the response. It's hard to tell from the photo, where did you mount the subs in the boat?
Click to expand...
Mine are under rear seat. I placed photo for interest only. You may find a creative way to surface mount your bass driver and build a spec cabinet inside your seat base or where ever you decide to mount driver. Another choice is to hire a professional to build a custom fiberglass enclosure for you. While your cost will run up for this type of work the gains will be there.

Your are on track with an enclosed sub design as IB is a large compromise. If it was my only option I would want to hear a 0.5 cuft enlosure sub system to gauge performance. I believe JL sells a complete M10W5 kit that is in the 0.5 cuft enclosure. Find one and give it a listen.

CORRECTION . . . I contacted JL and the M10W5 kit is closer to 1.0 cuft enclosure.
 
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