3126 CAT engine won't start on 450DA

U

unklbuck

New Member
Mar 4, 2007
211
Pittsburgh - Charleston
Boat Info
2009 Regulator 32
Engines
Yamaha 350s
Put my 450 DA in the water yesterday and could not start the starboard engine unless i held down the emergency stop. Also, enigne would not run unless you held the emer stop switch down.
I recall last fall, when i took it out, i could not start the starboard engine (weak battery) so we jumped it and started and ran ok.

Went thru the checklist, (key on , ignition breaker on, batteries on, batteries checked, and nothing when i hit the start switch on the panel. one of the starboard batteries was weak, (replaced it with the good battery from the other bank and still nothing.

Jumped the batteries from the port to starboard bank and still nothing.

What i did just before launching was to have someone take off my radar and also undid the panel with the autopilot, gps depth, and radio. (replacing all soon)... thought they may have bumped a wire or 2 on the engine start swtich but all looked good.

Any ideas?

Thanks.....
 
The fact that you cannot get the engine to run without holding the emergency START switch indicates you are not getting voltage to the fuel supply solenoid on the injection pump from the stbd battery bank since the only wway the engine will run is by cross feeding voltage from the port to the stbd side.

If you replaced the stbd batteries with good ones either from the port side or new and the engine still will not start except by using the emergency start switch, then I suspect you have tripped the stbd master breaker by trying to crank the engine with low/weak batteries. The master breaker is a large push button breaker with a red button on it and it is located either on the engine near the starter or in an electrical box mounted opposite the starter on the end of the engine nearest the bow depending upon the year model of your engines.

While you are checking things, be sure you check all the ignition switches and breakers on the main panel, under the companion seat and in the pull down panel to the stbd of the helm.

If this doesn't do it, there is one other thing to check, but it is going to be very hard to write it in a way that isn't confusing, so check the above and let us know where you stand before I go thru the other one.
 
Thank you Dr Frank!

I'm going to tell Oprah about you and vote for you to be on the show in case any boat owners are watching. Then, to make sure all the anti-libs aren't missing out on any words of wisdom, take you to Rush Limberger and let his 20 million listen to brillance.

Will let you know how this goes...........thanks again FW,,,,jb
 
Polishing my dash with that T-Shirt

If none of Franks suggestions work, here is what I found that caused the very same trouble on my 460 and I'd bet the wire harnesses aren't different.

Look behind the main breaker pannel and trace the ignition switch wires to a connector block and press the block back together and secure with a wire tie. A similar block exists behind the S/B rocker switch panel for the starter switches. Find those blocks and securely wire tie them.

I'll bet the engines work flawlessly there after!

I sp[ent a grand on professional fixes ( new 8D's, new solinoid switch, new ignition switches, new key switches and nothing made the S/B engine run unless it had the emergency start switch kicked in) only to fix it my self.


Let us know the gremlins ID.
 
That was the probelm I didn't want to have to describe until he needed it. There are 5 different wiring harnesses on the 450 involving male and female junction blocks on each end. They are well hidden and some are hard to get to......on a 450DA the one behind the main panel is only the last one!
 
I seem to find things in the last place I look!

Uclebuck:

My gremlin was caused by an electronic tech pulling cables from the Hard Top through the race behind the Helm switch panel and then from the Main Breaker board. The trouble came precisely after he left the boat.

I never suspected that the connector blocks would not be securely clamped. They are now, every one I can get to.

I'd start from the last place the TECH disturbed and work backwards, but wire tie everything as you go and try to start the engine after every block that is secured.

My clue was that the engine would operate normally while the main breaker panel was open and would kill when I closed it! The ignition cable bundle was so thick and stiff I had to life it to get the panel open or closed as it would snag... too much strain on the block.
 
John,

There are several connector blocks. The 2 most likely to cause problems are the one behind the main panel in the salon and there is another behind the dash panels. That one is in an unlikely spot and is only accesses by removing the upper instrument panle where the tachs are located. You have to remove the fiber trim on top of the dash to get the panel. Be careful and work it up very gently because it is only held in place with plastic fasteners.

Just looking at the terminal block is adequate. They will look well seated and locked together but one of the male or female pins will have slipped back away from the mating part inside the termial block.

Get your wiring diagram out of the gray owners manual and find the DC schematic. Then follow the circuit from the switch to the engine. IOdentify the ignition switch color code. You must do it this way to be sure you have identified the correct terminal block and wire.....there are hundreds of them containing thousands of wires scattered all over the boat. Every wire is color coded and numbered and every terminal block is clearly numbered both on the schematic and in the wire itself near the terminal block with is also numbered. When you find the correct terminal block and wire, separate the 2 sides of the terminal block and re-insert the pins with a pair of needle nosed pliers, then re-assemble and give it a try.

And just to be sure, if you have one battery in a bank with one or more dead cells, the one good battery will not crank the engine and may not even open the fuel solenoid. Check your battery voltage before you tear the boat apart. You need to see at least 12.6 volts at the panel.

Let us know how you do..............
 
You may want to check the voltage at the run/fuel solenoid first. Have someone depress the ignition switch while you read the voltage and then do it again with the emergency start switch engaged. If there is only a slight difference in voltage, it may be a flakey solenoid. They are fairly easy to replace and I carry a spare on board due to past problems.

Greg
 
Don't know, but I had the same problem. There must have been just enough voltage loss to the solenoid on the one engine that it wouldn't engage without applying power from both sets of (new) batteries. Replacing the solenoid corrected the problem on mine.
 
Went to the boat late afternoon, looked at the instrument panel (all in fine disarray as the panels were pulled for replacement).

Looked at it, decided the very calm lake deserved a 5 mile zodiac run to the restaurant and after a nice dinner, and super calm run home, the panel didnt look so bad, so decided to hit the hay and pray on this tomorrow.

Anybody go to the SR web site and try to download 1996 manuals etc? I enter the year and a 450 DA does not show up as an option. Got the manuals on the boat, but just now decided to try to download them from SR and no luck.
 
1996 is not available online.....try 1997 which is just about the same boat.

Back then the wiring diagram was in your owners packet in the gray Sea Ray owners manual in Chapter 12.
 
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