310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Stuck, I put the table post in rear seat area with the fill in pad. After a day with friends lounging the post is impossible to remove.
Tried force and a little wd40. Any ideas other then more force and lighter friends?
 
Stuck, I put the table post in rear seat area with the fill in pad. After a day with friends lounging the post is impossible to remove.
Tried force and a little wd40. Any ideas other then more force and lighter friends?

It's a cone - so a bit of force - wiggle forward and backward will usually loosen the table posts.

Does the bottom of the cone have a water drain? If so you might be able to squirt some WD40 in it from the drain exit. I don't have my 310 yet - but have battled with plenty of table posts.... The most important thing is to keep them clean in the first place. A bit of sand and dried salt water will make it hard to separate them.
 
Do as Kaz said, wiggle it... just a little bit!! Sorry couldn't help myself!! Try a long pole to give you some leverage.
@ Kaz, the hole doesn't have a drain!!!!
 
Do as Kaz said, wiggle it... just a little bit!! Sorry couldn't help myself!! Try a long pole to give you some leverage.
@ Kaz, the hole doesn't have a drain!!!!

haha :) - hmm no drain hole.... Well on my old sail boat the table post had a drain. If water sit's there and evaporate it will "gunk" up the walls with dirt. So when you wash it make certain that you get the water out and clean it.
 
310 Hull question - is it a cored hull? Or it is "just full fibreglass" ? I want to experiment a bit with in hull transducer for a fish finder/sonar - and I wonder if I can go the "in hull" way vs drilling holes and putting ducers on the outside. I'm not worried about loss - since water depths around here are well... maximum 50 meters (150')

/Kasper
 
Kasper,

Not full fiberglass... mine is some sort of plastic/nylon composite center. I drilled a 2" hole in the transom below the water line and had to reheat the hole saw to get the core sample out. The core was about 2" thick total, with about 1" of the composite material in the center.
 
Kasper,

Not full fiberglass... mine is some sort of plastic/nylon composite center. I drilled a 2" hole in the transom below the water line and had to reheat the hole saw to get the core sample out. The core was about 2" thick total, with about 1" of the composite material in the center.

thanks. Then I might have to drill the transducer through. :-(
 
Just had my Clarion head unit replaced with an Alpine and the power amps replaced with JL. I had the premium sound system option with the Polk Audio component speakers. I now want to upgrade the speakers, but have no idea how to get the cover panels off of my 2007 310DA. Any ideas?
 
Greg, If your talking about the covers on the Radar Arch.... mine are held on with that commercial Velcro-like Plastic strips!! They just pull off (in a strong wind)!!!! :)
 
It's a cone - so a bit of force - wiggle forward and backward will usually loosen the table posts.

Does the bottom of the cone have a water drain? If so you might be able to squirt some WD40 in it from the drain exit. I don't have my 310 yet - but have battled with plenty of table posts.... The most important thing is to keep them clean in the first place. A bit of sand and dried salt water will make it hard to separate them.

Force won!
 
OC = Overcrank shutdown (More than 3 unsuccessful starting attempts)

Check fuel supply
Check battery voltage

You need a reset and < 3 start attempts to see another code if there is one.
 
Also had to work on the anchor pulpit. Front 4 bolts were snapped off. I was able to punch out and replace the middle two but unable to reach front 2. Not sure what happened it may have been that way since I purchased it.
 
Anyone having issues with the cabin door being tough to open? It seems like it is jumping out of the tracks.
 
Anyone having issues with the cabin door being tough to open? It seems like it is jumping out of the tracks.

Mine never felt like it was coming off track... just very hard to slide. I use Vaseline on the tracks... makes a huge difference.
 
A teflon spray lubricant works a lot better than Vaseline or WD-40. Teflon will not attract and accumulate dirt then way Vaseline or similar lubricants do. You need to clean the tracks really good and get them bone dry before applying the Teflon spray because the Teflon feels dry on the track but it maintains a slickness.

I bought this stuff at Lowe's and used it regularly on my 280:
 

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