310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

Hey all,

I’ve got a neighboring boathouse attached to mine by a tire. It’s causing a fair amount of squeaking, even with minimal winds. Any suggestions for material between the tire and my metal to ease the friction and sound effects?

Thanks in advance!
Greg
 
Gregory Beach said:
Just saying hello- newer boaters in the PNW just stepping aboard. I feel like I searched hours for this thread and just stumbled into it today!
Click to expand...

Greg,

Welcome aboard. FYI, the focus of this thread is the 2007-2009 310 Sundancer and the 2010-2018 330 Sundancer. In 2010 the 310 Sundancer was rebadged as the 330 Sundancer. Your 2012 310 Sundancer is a different boat.
 
Thanks for the welcome-
Ahh, I see now. Thank you very much for that clarification! I looked for this thread awhile, I’ll go ahead a search again for the proper channel. Thanks for you grace, friend!

Greg
 
Team, (Potential Electrical Problem?)

Post winterization and haul out for winter storage, went to check on the boat to plug in an extension and keep the batteries charged during the winter.
Plug the extension to a standard GFCI outlet, then connect to the boat via transom connection (I have the Marinco adapter). For some reason after some undetermined length of time the GFCI where I connect the extension trips (w/o charger being turned On).

Decided to reset it and turn on the charger (ProNautic 1220P, replaced Nov 2019 after original went bad). The charger comes ON, then after the self-test (about 7-10 secs) get a DC Volts Low indication and the GFCI (on the outlet) trips.

Has anyone seen something similar?
(Check the batteries, one was at 9.2 Volt, took it out and the same thing was happening. The rest of the batteries greater than 12.2V).

Thanks!
 
The GFCI outlet must see a ground fault on your boat... start by turning all AC breakers off. Reset the GFCI and see if it will stay in. If it stays in, turn AC breakers on one at a time and you may find the faulty circuit.

Hopefully it's not your charger circuit and you can deal with the problem in the spring.
 
JimG said:
The GFCI outlet must see a ground fault on your boat... start by turning all AC breakers off. Reset the GFCI and see if it will stay in. If it stays in, turn AC breakers on one at a time and you may find the faulty circuit.

Hopefully it's not your charger circuit and you can deal with the problem in the spring.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback.
I will try it and see what happens. I live about a 3 min drive to the boat.
Left a VM with Promariner to explain what is happening. They were very responsive when I replaced the charger. Waiting to hear back.

Thanks!
 
Hello Guys - I purchased a 2007 310DA that currently has a weld broke on the cabin stairs. I need to remove the assembly to take to a buddy to have him reweld it. Has anyone removed the stairs before? Really curious how to gain access to the screws in the headliner/ceiling as the screws on the floor are visible and easily accessible. Any help would be much appreciated!

EDIT: Nevermind. Managed to get it apart and removed.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone had to replace their swim platform ladder yet? Mine is rusting, which is weird because its supposed to be stainless steel. From what I have read they were made by GG Schmitt but was just curious if anyone has replaced it yet.
 
My ladder is still fine... but I will keep an eye out.
 
Team,
I’m sure this has been answer somewhere, but......
Is time to replace my batteries, I currently have West Marine Group 27 Flooded batteries (2 Dual Purpose and 2 Deep Cycle). Not sure if this is the correct configuration or the most effective one.

Boat configuration:
Twin 350 FWC (5.7L) V-Drives with a Koehler Genset

Looking for recommendations. Either stay with Group 27, jump to Group 31. Don’t want to spend the $$ on AGMs unless there’s a very good reason. Most of my boating is daily trips out and back or marina overnights. The charger is a one year old ProNautic 1220P.

Thanks!
 
flyfig said:
Team,
I’m sure this has been answer somewhere, but......
Is time to replace my batteries, I currently have West Marine Group 27 Flooded batteries (2 Dual Purpose and 2 Deep Cycle). Not sure if this is the correct configuration or the most effective one.

Boat configuration:
Twin 350 FWC (5.7L) V-Drives with a Koehler Genset

Looking for recommendations. Either stay with Group 27, jump to Group 31. Don’t want to spend the $$ on AGMs unless there’s a very good reason. Most of my boating is daily trips out and back or marina overnights. The charger is a one year old ProNautic 1220P.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

My 2009 310 was configured with 4 x Group 31 AGM's (blue top Optima). 2 of them were the starboard start + helm bank and the other 2 were the port start + house bank. In my opinion, this isn't ideal. It would be better to have a dedicated bank for house, one for port, and one for starboard. Unfortunately, I never had the opportunity to "fix" this.

I'm not certain if SR changed the battery wiring from year to year on the same model, but if they didn't, it's probably best to determine how your configuration is exactly wired and work from there. Paralleling a dual-purpose and a deep cycle in the same bank probably isn't ideal (depth of discharge should be limited on the dual-purpose vs the deep cycle). And, if you have one bank that is dedicated solely to starting (using only the dual-purpose), then I'd be concerned that you don't have a dedicated (isolated) start battery per engine.
 
your boat should be wired the same as mine which is 2 batteries per bank each providing power to 1 engine and 1/2 the 12v electric on boat. you should definately have 4 of the same batteries type and size. i would say if you dont want to spend the money on 31 series AGM then get 31 deep cycle.
 
tlrlc- I looked at the manual and it recommends Group 31s. I’m unsure on why I have 27s, and Deep Cycle and Dual Purpose per bank.

So, if I understand you correctly just go for 31 Deep Cycle for all batteries?
 
Another question - this time about props.

I would like to remove them and have them tuned.
I believe I have a 1 1/8” nut, however is not a 1 1/8” wrench for removal. What’s the size of the wrench/socket to remove them?

I went to a local Prop Shop and the guy quoted me (without seeing the props) $325 pp plus an “environmental fee”. I did tell him they are 18 x 16 props. Is that reasonable?
Thanks!
 
yes 31 deep cycle is the way to go. im not sure of the size wrench needed i had my marina do my props and i now have 4 blades but 325 for is not a bad price for reconditioning.
 
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