310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

I replaced my batteries over the weekend. I had mixed batteries. 2 of which were group 27 deep cel and 2 were group 31 AGM (one WM and one with no label). I have AXIUS which requires group 31, so I replaced with 4 SRM-31 interstate batteries. I initially wanted to replace just 2, but the 2 good ones were the group 27. So decided to replace all 4

I changed the batteries because on my first outing last week the starboard engine stopped. After coming to idle from cruising, the starboard engine switched off with low voltage error message. I tried to restart, but received the start sequence aborted. back to dock on port engine at about 1000 rpm, hard time docking, but it worked. next morning and after charging the batteries, all good. I have a forward set and rear set, I believe the front set were port and the rear set are starboard. am I correct?

I have a habit of keeping the battery charger on when we leave the boat. is this a good practice? I still have the original PD1230 charger.

My next set of projects are (feedback welcome)
  • there is a sound when I start the startboard engine (for a split second), the guys at the marina said sounds like the starter may have a loose connection. they also said something about the sound coming from the flywheel
  • Replacing the starbaord hatch actuator (making loud cranking sound), trying to figure out if I can take apart and grease before replacing.
  • service the fuel sender on the port engine (the gauge is not working and not detectable by smartcraft). I'm going to try to clean the connections first and reconnect and see what happens based on the suggestion from flyfig above
  • and last replace the riser and elbows on the port engine. Mechanic said no need to replace the manifold because it is freshwater cooled. I will have him inspect the manifold when he replaces the riser and manifold
any feedback or suggestions are most welcome.
 
71 -
For hatch actuator, I would grease it first. There’s a grease fitting there. I used a grease gun with standard Lucas red grease.

For your fuel sender unit. Take it out and let it drain, then turn it upside down and back up right so the float moves freely. Put it back in and see what happens. On mine was my starboard tank which was easier than you port tank.

Good Luck!
 
Just to confirm which batteries support which engines. i have 2 sets, front and rear. My assumption is the front support the port engine and outside cockpit area, and the rear set supports the starboard engine and cabin.
 
on my boat the port 2 batteries are wired together = port motor, starboard =starboard but as far as what they supply both banks and engine starting AND house batteries. i have a list somewhere on what supplies what but its pretty well mixed with all systems on the boat.
 
Team, (Help!)

Back after multiple successful runs. However, yesterday after a short drive from one marina to another for some social distancing dinner, on the way back at WOT my Port Engine at 4600 RPM, but Starboard Engine could only achieve 4200 RPM (about 1/2 tanks).

This is what has been done in the last few weeks.
- New Spark Plugs
- New Impellers and Wear Plates
- New Fuel Filters
- Have NOT check the cool fuel unit. Spoke with Mercury and they asked me to take it to an Authorized Dealer to see if the units are bad.

Before I take to local dealer, any recommendations from anyone that have gone through something similar.

Engines are at 390 hrs, new oil and filter.

Thanks!
 
i have gone throught the same thing with my boat however it was only realized when i got new 4 blade props, i would check your props first then, move on to the cool fuel unit, then i would have the injectors done. i say this because this is what i went through.....i just had a valve job done over the winter and if the motors are within 200rpm of each other its good.
 
QQ, i have the original installed smartcraft vesselview. Does the Waste tank level or the fresh water tank level show up on the vesselview screen?
 
I don't think so. The fuel tanks do, but I don't recall seeing the fresh water or waste level.
 
tlrlc said:
on my boat the port 2 batteries are wired together = port motor, starboard =starboard but as far as what they supply both banks and engine starting AND house batteries. i have a list somewhere on what supplies what but its pretty well mixed with all systems on the boat.
Click to expand...

I would love a list! Been trying to interpret the schematics. I’m ok until I get to the Acorn SR 521 junction bus, from there it all goes everywhere! What the heck.

I purchased a Victron 713 battery monitor to monitor the house batteries, looks like the port batteries are the house and port engine. Why wouldn’t Sea Ray separate the starting batteries? Anybody split the system to isolate the house?
 
Boater71 said:
Congrats on the purchase of the boat! It my first season with and they both looks similarly equipped. My CFD was changed to a Garmin Chartplotter/fishfinder. My first upgrade before I even picked the boat up was the decking, makes the boat looks even nicer and cleaner. Took out the older TV and installed couple of new ones. I'm learning all my systems, reach out if you have questions.
Click to expand...
Trying to figure out how to remove tv by the entry door. Don’t want to break it, how the h*ll does it come off? Lol
 
There's two screws in the bottom behind the tv, once those are off it slides up.
You may need a long phillips if I remember correctly.
 
Boater71 said:
I replaced my batteries over the weekend. I had mixed batteries. 2 of which were group 27 deep cel and 2 were group 31 AGM (one WM and one with no label). I have AXIUS which requires group 31, so I replaced with 4 SRM-31 interstate batteries. I initially wanted to replace just 2, but the 2 good ones were the group 27. So decided to replace all 4

I changed the batteries because on my first outing last week the starboard engine stopped. After coming to idle from cruising, the starboard engine switched off with low voltage error message. I tried to restart, but received the start sequence aborted. back to dock on port engine at about 1000 rpm, hard time docking, but it worked. next morning and after charging the batteries, all good. I have a forward set and rear set, I believe the front set were port and the rear set are starboard. am I correct?

I have a habit of keeping the battery charger on when we leave the boat. is this a good practice? I still have the original PD1230 charger.

My next set of projects are (feedback welcome)
  • there is a sound when I start the startboard engine (for a split second), the guys at the marina said sounds like the starter may have a loose connection. they also said something about the sound coming from the flywheel
  • Replacing the starbaord hatch actuator (making loud cranking sound), trying to figure out if I can take apart and grease before replacing.
  • service the fuel sender on the port engine (the gauge is not working and not detectable by smartcraft). I'm going to try to clean the connections first and reconnect and see what happens based on the suggestion from flyfig above
  • and last replace the riser and elbows on the port engine. Mechanic said no need to replace the manifold because it is freshwater cooled. I will have him inspect the manifold when he replaces the riser and manifold
any feedback or suggestions are most welcome.
Click to expand...

Merc recommends AGM batteries for Axius.
 
did anyone replace the navigation lights with LEDs? I tried 2 form WM but they did not work. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Boater71 said:
did anyone replace the navigation lights with LEDs? I tried 2 form WM but they did not work. Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
What didn't work with them? If they simply didn't light up, turn them around.
I bought some, but haven't installed them yet.
 
wyrman said:
What didn't work with them? If they simply didn't light up, turn them around.
I bought some, but haven't installed them yet.
Click to expand...


Its the red and green lights, cant turn those around. I'm thinking polarity issues. I know the bulb is the BA15 single. btw, i found the plastic at the top melted!!!
 
You could remove the base and cut/splice the wires, changing the polarity that way.
Just make sure to splice them back properly.
 
Team CSR,
Update: Had to replace my Cool Fuel Unit on Port Eng. After research and advice from a lot of you, that was the problem.
Cool Fuel was getting clogged by corrosion. It would work when cool, or at cruising RPM, but once hot and going to idle or near idle (~1000RPM) the engine would start stalling due to improper fuel flow.
$1279 later and 4-5 hrs of good labor, it’s done. I’m sure I’ll have to replace SB Engine Cool Fuel Module as well. Hopefully not right away.

Thanks for the help....
 
flyfig said:
Team CSR,
Update: Had to replace my Cool Fuel Unit on Port Eng. After research and advice from a lot of you, that was the problem.
Cool Fuel was getting clogged by corrosion. It would work when cool, or at cruising RPM, but once hot and going to idle or near idle (~1000RPM) the engine would start stalling due to improper fuel flow.
$1279 later and 4-5 hrs of good labor, it’s done. I’m sure I’ll have to replace SB Engine Cool Fuel Module as well. Hopefully not right away.

Thanks for the help....
Click to expand...
Did you contact Mercury about the service bulletin? They use to pay for parts if you take it to an authorized mechanic.
Part of the bulletin is the fuel injection system also.
 
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