310 Sundancer Thread (2007 & newer)

CSR Fam....

Need some help:
After splashing the boat and during my first short drive from storage location to marine slip I had a Smartcraft Message on SB engine.
- Smartcraft read: STBD System Fault with a a message that read “Fuel Sender”. The followed message once you hit “more” read - Fuel Level Sensor is not working properly”.
- Assuming it was just the fuel sender unit, I went out for a quick ride and had what I describe as RPM roll-back. While cruising at 3850 per/engine, my STBD engine slowly rolled back. Immediately shut it down, check the engine (s) and nothing noticeable. Everything looks good (oil, water, no leaks, etc). All engine indications in the digital and analog indicators were normal, other than now that fuel gauge reads zero.
- So come back and decide to go out another day to verify. This time while “trolling” at idle, my Port engine went from about 700 RPM to about 480 when I shut it off (luckily I was looking at the dials). Inspect engine(s) and nothing. Restart, got and to fuel dock. My intent was to fill up to 75%, however due to erroneous indications in fuel sender, ended up filling the SB tank. After this we headed back to marina and everything look and felt normal (headed back at 4200ish RPM with no issues), then cruised at idle to dock with no issues.
- Replaced fuel filters on both engines, and fuel filter for gender (this is the only I can see/find/per manual on my boat).
- I would expect this to happen on one engine, but the roll back on Port got me a bit concerned.
- I have researched this with potential issues on fuel sender units, etc... but haven’t found an answer.
- checked plugs and look good, but I’ll replace the anyways.

The boat has 380ish hours, Twin 350 (MIE 350 MAG MOI HORIZON) V-Drives.
Fuel Tanks made by Florida Marine Tanks (FMT-94S-SR, P/N 1818823, 94 gals on SB & FMT-107P-SR, P/N 1818822, 107 gals on Port)

In addition I will replace all spark plugs, wires, and anything needed.
Current plugs are NGK ITR4A15 (however on label side of engine it recommends AC 41-932). Which one anyone recommends?

Recently I discovered my Idle could be a bit high. After IAC replacement my Idle has been in the 700+ (sometime as high as 770-790). The same label on side of engine indicates that Idle RPM should be 600 Non Adj. Not sure what’s going on here. Disconnected throttle cables to verify it wasn’t the cables and still in the 700 RPM range.

I have babied this boat since I bought it slightly used with 179hrs. This is the first time I have had any issues.

Sorry for the long post, but if you have gone through something similar please chime-in. I maybe missing something simple.

Thanks in Advanced!
FIG
 
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i would have fuel pressure checked from cool fuel unit -have you replaced them? i have already done both mine and have replaced one fuel sending unit but thats only a gauge thing. your issue could be fuel pressure or just a bad power/ground. good luck and post your findings after its fixed.
 
i would have fuel pressure checked from cool fuel unit -have you replaced them? i have already done both mine and have replaced one fuel sending unit but thats only a gauge thing. your issue could be fuel pressure or just a bad power/ground. good luck and post your findings after its fixed.
“Cool fuel unit”? Can you elaborate? I’m sure nothing has been replaced.
Where would I look for a grounding issue. Already checked at fuel sender.
 
cool fuel unit is where your fuel filters are on the motor - they have a disk filter, a paper filter and they house your fuel pumps and are cooled by the raw water. they are pricey but known to fail. and if the sender has a good ground it could be faulty. you can check it with a multi meter but you would have to know how many ohms its range would be.
 
cool fuel unit is where your fuel filters are on the motor - they have a disk filter, a paper filter and they house your fuel pumps and are cooled by the raw water. they are pricey but known to fail. and if the sender has a good ground it could be faulty. you can check it with a multi meter but you would have to know how many ohms its range would be.
Ok. I did replaced the fuel filters. Was unaware of the cool fuel unit itself.
 
There's a service bulletin out on the cool fuel modules. Mercury will pay parts to replace them, and the injectors if yours are ones that are on their bad list.
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bulletins/001/04/2009/en_01.pdf

Thanks for the info. I’ll look into it. Just got back from the boat. Took the SB fuel sender out and tested Ohms. It will increase/decrease as I took the unit out and out back in. Swapped gauges connections back and forth and now readings look normal. I do believe the sender unit on SB is going bad. It takes longer to come up than port when both switches are turned on at same time (by 4-5”).
This sender unit is a ISSPRO 22022220.
Ran the boat at idle, the cruise then WOT. My SB engine RPM seems lower when compared to Port. At WOT Port reads 4850, SB barely getting to 4600.
Will follow up after spark plug replacements and other checks.

Please keep the information coming.

Thanks!!
 
So.... After new spark plugs, taking the fuel sender out(SB), testing it and re-installing it, and both fuel filters replaced, decided to run the boat yesterday. (So, basically I had two unrelated problems at the same time).
All was normal. While trolling at idle, the port engine started to bug-down (down to 480 RPM) and I’ll shut it down immediately. Waited a few minutes then re-start and nothing... everything normal. When it happened again, opened Engine Compartment and look at engine while attempting to start.
After all, the reduction in RPM while at idle is due to a sticky or stuck impeller.
Already ordered the kit, will be replacing shortly. Anyone have had that happened before where the impeller gets stuck to the housing (I haven’t taken it out yet, but it happened once before and the local mechanic recommended to use a “softer” impeller and grease it up well while installing).
Any suggestion?

Thanks!
 
Team - another question.
How do you reset the water temp on your Smartcraft? Mine is currently reading -31deg.
 
Hi everyone, trying to get my boat back in the water up in the Northeast. I beleive i have burned the Hatch Fuse, trying to figure out the best way to open the hatch. Any recommendations? i also read somewhere about making an opening under the one of the seats (behind the captain seat) just not sure where to create the whole to reach the fuse. Any help would be mostly appreciated.
 
Hi everyone, trying to get my boat back in the water up in the Northeast. I beleive i have burned the Hatch Fuse, trying to figure out the best way to open the hatch. Any recommendations? i also read somewhere about making an opening under the one of the seats (behind the captain seat) just not sure where to create the whole to reach the fuse. Any help would be mostly appreciated.
There’s a recent thread here with much discussion and eventual success about various scenarios of how to lift the hatch in a similar situation. In that case, he had a relay failure in the EIM.

See thread here: http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/2009-310-sundancer-engine-hatch-wont-open.97424
 
anyone else have 6.2 with v drives ? im looking for fuel burn at cruising speed numbers for each motor individually. im burning 2.5GPH more at cruising speed on starboard than on port motor. i know they have 2 different ratios in tranny but im wondering if this is normal. thanks
 
Thanks for the info. I’ll look into it. Just got back from the boat. Took the SB fuel sender out and tested Ohms. It will increase/decrease as I took the unit out and out back in. Swapped gauges connections back and forth and now readings look normal. I do believe the sender unit on SB is going bad. It takes longer to come up than port when both switches are turned on at same time (by 4-5”).
This sender unit is a ISSPRO 22022220.
Ran the boat at idle, the cruise then WOT. My SB engine RPM seems lower when compared to Port. At WOT Port reads 4850, SB barely getting to 4600.
Will follow up after spark plug replacements and other checks.

Please keep the information coming.

Thanks!!

flyfig, did you replace the fuel sender? my port fuel sender has a message as well and the shows fuel tank empty. I go by with what I have on the starboard side.
 
flyfig, did you replace the fuel sender? my port fuel sender has a message as well and the shows fuel tank empty. I go by with what I have on the starboard side.
71 - I didn’t. I basically disconnected it, slowly took it out of the tank let all fuel out. Tested it for ohms and made sure nothing was obstructing the float inside the tube (which is hard to tell because you can’t really see it). In addition I cleaned the connection and used dielectric spray on it. Put it back together and now is working properly.
Here’s a link for the sender just in case (http://www.partdeal.com/gauges/send...oQBotbaVMYZIdsby2yeK9er11KYJqLYRoCg2QQAvD_BwE)

If mine fails again, I will replace it.
Hope this helps.
upload_2020-5-28_9-33-15.jpeg
 
Happy social distanc … er, I mean Spring everyone. Over the winter I replaced an old, worrisome Inteli-Power PD2130 with a shiny new, worry-free Promariner Pronautic 1240P Battery Charger and wanted to share some lessons learned in hopes of saving anyone interested in taking on this project some potential heartburn. While there has been plenty written on this topic there was still a substantial amount of information that had to be discovered firsthand. To be honest it took longer to do the research than it did to make the swap, but that doesn’t mean it was easy. It took the Admiral and I about 6 hours to complete.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an ABYC Certified Marine Electrician or any type of electrician for that matter and this is by no means a step-by-step accounting of the work involved, but a listing of things I as a DIYer encountered and thought might prove helpful for the next guy. It is assumed if you are going to take this project on you don’t need me to tell you to disconnect the shore power, batteries, use marine grade wire, shrink tube, etc. As usual the Sea Ray Parts and Owner’s Manuals provided very little guidance.

The boat: 2008 SR 310 DA - 6.2L MPI’s, Bravo 3’s, factory bow thruster, 5ECD genny.

Lessons Learned …. Somewhat in order of importance:

1) The 40amp charger was not my first choice. However, due to the Carling Series-A breaker chassis size we are limited to a 50amp capacity DC breaker in the Main DC Panel which assuming you follow Promariner’s recommended breaker sizing and without doing extensive DC bus bar modifications the charger is by default limited to 40amps. Now, that being said, if you were so inclined you could by-pass the factory DC breakers and utilize ANL style fuses you could indeed move up to a larger capacity charger. I went with the largest charger recommended based on the limitations of the available direct replacement breaker capacities.

2) In total the larger capacity charger required upgrading the AC breaker (10amp to 15amp), the DC breaker(s) (30amp to 50amp), both AC and DC wiring associated with the charger and the circuit and case ground wiring.

3) Existing configuration: On the Main DC breaker panel / battery switch the boat had 1ea. 30amp factory breaker installed with Battery Chargers No. 2 and No. 3 blanked off. I changed this configuration and utilized Battery Charger No. 1 and No. 2 breakers by landing one of the 2 positive legs from the charger on to the Line side of each new 50amp breaker then, like the factory wiring, jumping over to the lugs on the bus bar from the Load side.

4) The Carling breaker model numbers are derived from a Di Vinci Code level ordering scheme, once the existing breakers were in hand I found the breaker codes were outdated and couldn’t be used to order new breakers. Eventually and with input from Carling's Tech Service I was able to get through the riddle of the ordering scheme only to find the Carling suppliers didn’t stock the incredibly specific 14-digit model number and just stocked a basic/generic breaker. See Materials List below for model numbers as received.

5) There are 2 choices as to where to land the DC side of the power: A) straight to the batteries through ANL fuses or B) back to the Main DC Panel which will allow you to use shore power to power things like the hatch, radio, etc. directly through the charger even if the batteries are out of the boat. For this reason I chose option B.

6) You have 3 ways to safeguard the wiring and electrical systems: A) Upgrading the breakers B) using the proper ANL fuses or C) you could conceivably do both. I chose A and replaced the factory breakers.

7) It would help to have small hands and a part-time, at a minimum, helper is a must.

8) The 40amp and larger Pronautic chargers use .25 in. lugs for connecting the DC positive and negative cables and a No. 6 hold down type screw on the AC side. All the breakers were ordered with the screws to match the factory bus bar connections. I think they are No. 8. The correct connection sizes are embedded in the model numbers listed below.

Materials:

1) 2ea. 50amp Carling guarded rocker style circuit breakers, yellow lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. They came as model number AO1-X0-0X-XXX-XX3-I. For reference the existing 30amp breaker model number was: AO1-X0-06-057-X63-I

2) 1ea. 15amp Carling circuit breaker, white lettering, ignition protected, text & symbols. Model Number: AD1-B0-34-6xx-x11-I. For reference the existing 10amp breaker model number was: AD1-X0-10-582-X11-I

3) I used roughly 40 feet of 6ga awg (Red), 2 feet of 6ga awg (Black), 2 feet of 8ga awg (green), 25 feet of 3 conductor #14 for the AC power, 20 feet of 1.5 in. wire loom (DC) & 25 feet of 1” wire loom (AC), zip ties with screw holes, heat shrink tubing, connectors, etc.

Specialty Tools:

1) Large diameter cable cutters
2) Adjustable type cable crimper
3) Wire Tracer - not a single wire I touched was numbered on both ends.
4) Amp/volt meter
5) Ridged fiberglass wire fish rods came in handy.

I am not sure if I am allowed to say specifically where I bought the parts, but everything was ordered on-line.

Best of luck!
Keith


Hi Keith, thanks for the great write up. I believe the starboard engine batteries are not charging and looking to replace. Question I have, why did you change the Charger? and which batteries do you have? trying to figure out the best value to match battery to charger.

Feedback much appreciated.
 
Team - I replaced my original battery charger after it broke with the 1240P. Easy to do. Call the company directly, Promariner, and they will give you a better price for being a previously Promariner owner. At least that was my experience.
 
anyone else have 6.2 with v drives ? im looking for fuel burn at cruising speed numbers for each motor individually. im burning 2.5GPH more at cruising speed on starboard than on port motor. i know they have 2 different ratios in tranny but im wondering if this is normal. thanks

I ran the boat yesterday and I have the same indications on my boat with 350 MAGs. Did it at different power settings matching both RPMs as close as I could and I burn about 2-2.5 GPH on my starboard more than port.
 
Thanks flyfig that’s good to know, I switched to 4 blade props and never thought to notice individual fuel burn untill after they were on the boat. if anyone else has v drive and fuel burn rates please post.
 

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