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Discussion in 'Sport Cruisers' started by hoard, May 21, 2010.
What kind of Battery issues were you having?
Go out for the day, on the hook for part of the day with minimal power on, fridge, radio etc, no lights. Time to go back to marina and port side battery won't start normally, only with "emergency" battery. Then the lights are dim and CO monitor sounds for awhile until battery charges. I do nothing different than all my boating buddies do while they are out. As I mentioned the marina "blames" me for the issue. Second time it has happened.
One other issue came up this weekend, water leaked through cockpit door during storm. Thought this door should be watertight? Rain was pretty strong, but could ruin some stuff if I weren't in covered storage. Anyone seen this?
Glen the Door to the Cabin is Far from Watertight!!! Start replacing your Batteries with 31 AGM'S!
Just bought a 2008 310 Sundancer. I love it! Just a simple question. There is a drawer refrigerator next to the regular refrigerator. Doesn't seem to get cold when plugged into shore power. How is it controlled?
I have the same problem so I leave my House Batteries on! It should be Dual Voltage but either somethings wrong or it isn't Dual!!!!!! :smt101
Guy's went to the Marina today and the service writer hands me a coupon from Mercury for $150 toward a new 31 AGM Battery through the Dealer MM! The reason I got it was Mercury believes that the Axius system needs the AGM's to work without issues and this was after a Mercury Tech came down and did the "White Glove Service" which was Free I might add!! So I'll probably replace one Battery at a time starting this year. I'm going to have my Canvas replaced since it's falling apart and need the Ducats for that!
The canvas is falling apart, or just the Isinglass is shot?
Previous owner didn't take care of the glass on mine, so I took it to a good canvas shop and got new heavy isinglass for the front 3 windows. Less than $300. A lot cheaper than replacing the canvas. Isn't it a bit early for your canvas to be shot?
I did the same with the 3 front panels! The zippers and the velcro are done!! The front frames are ripping and shot! I'm going to guess that the PO didn't shrink wrap the Boat over the Winter that he owned it !!!
The drink drawer is usually 12v only. I leave the batteries on to keep it cold when there is something in it. Then someone keeps unplugging my boat and killing the batteries.
Isotherm does make a model that switches 110v / 12v, but they seem to be rare and I'm not likely to drop a kilobuck on a new drawer just to make this change. I'm thinking of adding the 110v converter to solve the problem, but first need to figure out what we have on the boat (don't seem to have a manual with a model number).
So, help me out here. I believe we have the Cruise 36 (CR 36) drink drawers. You can see the catalog here: http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/Products/graphics/1_Company_Catalogue_US.pdf. SailorSam's seems to carry it, among others; see #3: http://www.sailorsams.com/mall/refrigerators-indel-front-opened.asp#CR36.
I think we can add this adapter to get 110v / battery switching on the drawer: http://greatlakesskipper.com/produc...otherm-indel-marine-boat-ac-dc-converter.html
I'm going to give Great Lakes, maybe Isotherm a call and ask them about it. But seems like a cheap and very useful upgrade to me.
Having helped my fellow boaters (I hope), can you answer a question for me? How cold does your drawer get? Mine is really wimpy. I'm thinking of pulling the unit to have it recharged. Any success stories out there? Do I just have to buy a new one?
Rich, who keeps pulling your Cable? My Drawer Unit works like S---!
The first time it was the marina. After they removed the dock box we rented from THEM and threw out the hose in it, they had to move our power cord when I made them put the dock box back. Then they neglected to plug us back in.
Don't know who unplugged us last week, or why. We were plugged in when I got to the dock, but the batteries were dead and the fridges warm. The marina was jam-packed though; I'll bet a transient dual-plug just needed another power hose.
The converter you link to has an odd output... 25/5 Volt DC. :huh: I think you want 12 Volt DC.
My drawer is more like a crisper drawer for vegetables and fruit... Thats what we use it for. It wont get drinks cold enough for me.
I guess you caught me, I linked that particular site despite the typo because they had a good price. It's supposed to read 25.5V output, which you can see if you zoom in close on the picture. The fridge is rated for 12V to 24V, I guess the 25.5V is for some extra oomph when you are on 240V AC.
The drawer is supposed to get very cold; ask Marshall / Bugsy24, his works like it is supposed to. Mine's wimpy like yours and has to be fixed. I'm going to pull it and check the fan, one of the two common failure modes. The other failure mode is it is leaking and needs to be fixed/recharged, which is so unlikely to work most say just buy a new one.
I haven't figured out how to pull it yet, but it looks like there is a retaining bolt that you remove from the trash can compartment, after which you can pull it. I think, there might be another bolt to find. I'll let you know.
I was going to post a nice tutorial, but it isn't fixed so that will be later.
To pull the drawer you also need to remove the refrigerator to get the retaining bolt on the other side.
But you probably don't have to pull the drawer at all, once you remove the fridge you'll see the compressor/cooler unit for the drawer mounted behind the fridge.
I have bigger problems than the fan, my compressor doesn't run at all now. I have some more digging to do to figure this out, time to bring out the big toolbox. I hope a new drawer isn't in my future, but it may be.
Don't feel bad Rich, I just got a Bill from MM for my engine repair and Toilet Pedal $1K!!!!!!!!!!!!! They said they replaced the Port SeaPump!!! I'm wondering why that's not a Warrantee Item?
Because you not only mashed the pedal so hard it snapped off, the force of the blow destroyed the pump, of course.
Has anybody had the chance to pull the Interior Overhead Lights? How do the lenses come off, the Head lights are different from the Cabins.(I wonder how the Cabin one's come off too!)
I also got delivery of the Anchor Shade II, I'll post pictures of how it fit's on the Aft when I try it on Sunday!!!
By "overhead" in the cabin, I assume you mean the galley light? I've pulled that one. If I remember right, a slight counter-clockwise twist, then you could just pull it down. It's on springs, so there will be some resistance. If it doesn't budge, it needs the twist.
If you're talking about the LED lights, dunno, but they should never break.
The Anchorshade II looks interesting. I'll look forward to the story/pics.
My refrigerator is fine, the problem is the cabin only has 8-9V when anything is turned on (even a light). So now I have to run down the bad connection / breaker.
But note those isotherm CR 36 drawers are VERY sensitive to low voltage, and just won't run when it is low. I'll bet a lot of those wimpy drawers just need the wiring / batteries cleaned up.
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Here's the shots of the Anchor Shade, put it up this morning in a slight breeze and was very steady! I'm liking it!