310 da trailering

All depends on how you intend to tow
Local vs long distance
Types of ramps you intend to frequent

Ability to “pull” safely is important
But stopping is also critical
Surge breaks are fine for short local trips
But given my 3/4 ton 2x2 I really appreciate the electric over hydraulic upgrade. Much more confident stopping.
Balanced never feel like boat is going push the truck thru a stop

Ramps at my lake are good concrete not to steep but not flat. Surge breaks do NOTHING backing down a ramp with 21000 pounds. Electric locks up all wheels.
I never want to be “that guy on YouTube” dragged into the water.
So I also have large wheel chocks for launching
And for hauling out have a 12000 winch on the front. I put a turn on the base of a bollard, pole, lamp post something solid before I winch the boat onto the trailer.
Then when pulling out I keep a strain on the winch let the truck do most of the work but The line is taught if the tires start spinning.

I’ll have to get my son in law to video the process next time we go out
 
Hi,

I'm about to trailer 270 (about 6,000 lbs) on the interstate for about 400 miles and I'm wondering where do you recommend I strap down the u-hook ratchet tie downs? Is it safe to hook them to the boat cleats or run the strap from the left side of trailer frame over the boat to the right side of trailer frame?

Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
 
I put one over the bow angled back
Another over the stern snug but not to tight ratchet straps can squeeze the hull

the stern eyes are excellent if they hold down without to much forward pull

In a panic stop the boat is going to try an go forward
In panic avoidance it is going to try and roll off the trailer
The point is you want a single object acting not two separate mass
 
I have airbags on my 2012 F350 diesel longbed. I leave 15 lbs in them when unloaded, just to help take away the continuous jitter bumps from a concrete interstate. 30-35 psi keeps it level with my 1100 lb tongue weight.

That year, the hitch tube was 2.5 inches. Rather than use the sleeve adapter, I bought a Reese Titan hitch insert, which is 2.5 inches already, and doesn't need an adapter. Good for 18K lbs, for about $48. The forged 2 5/16 hitch ball is also good for 15K, and it cost $11.
 
I finally got some launch/trailer pics uploaded

 
I really like the red tag system. I am frequently forgetting something: the tags are much more practical than a check list. Thanks for sharing the video.
 
Just uploaded the recovery process at the ramp...

 
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