300 Sundancer questions.

Help me make a Decision on my "New To Me 300Da"

-Option 1 -> 2004 300DA ~200 hrs 1 Owner well maintained all records available, new electronics and canvas installed 2 years ago, known issues one of the gas tanks reads wrong data, owner needs to install new water heater which he already has. Was used in Long Island NY. (No Generator)

-Options 2 -> 2005 300DA ~290 hrs 2 owners (Most recent owner is some CEO and wants to go bigger, did not use this boat last year bc he was out of the country all summer. Boat has been winterized for 2 seasons now. Before he bough it 3 years ago on the survey they had him replace left engine manifolds and risers.) Canvas is new as well very clean boat.
Winterized both V8 I/O's Merc engines, A/C, multi-fixture hot water system, toliet (w/ pump) Batteries storage, Oil/Antifreeze/Fogging oil/Mildew preventor/fuel stabilizer (no generator)

Both has AC/Heat both very good conditions and both are priced with in $1000 difference

BOTH UNDER $40k
 
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Help me make a Decision on my "New To Me 300Da"

-Option 1 -> 2004 300DA ~200 hrs 1 Owner well maintained all records available, new electronics and canvas installed 2 years ago, known issues one of the gas tanks reads wrong data, owner needs to install new water heater which he already has. Was used in Long Island NY. (No Generator)

-Options 2 -> 2005 300DA ~290 hrs 2 owners (Most recent owner is some CEO and wants to go bigger, did not use this boat last year bc he was out of the country all summer. Boat has been winterized for 2 seasons now. Before he bough it 3 years ago on the survey they had him replace left engine manifolds and risers.) Canvas is new as well very clean boat.
Winterized both V8 I/O's Merc engines, A/C, multi-fixture hot water system, toliet (w/ pump) Batteries storage, Oil/Antifreeze/Fogging oil/Mildew preventor/fuel stabilizer (no generator)

Both has AC/Heat both very good conditions and both are priced with in $1000 difference

BOTH UNDER $40k
Help me make a Decision on my "New To Me 300Da"

-Option 1 -> 2004 300DA ~200 hrs 1 Owner well maintained all records available, new electronics and canvas installed 2 years ago, known issues one of the gas tanks reads wrong data, owner needs to install new water heater which he already has. Was used in Long Island NY. (No Generator)

-Options 2 -> 2005 300DA ~290 hrs 2 owners (Most recent owner is some CEO and wants to go bigger, did not use this boat last year bc he was out of the country all summer. Boat has been winterized for 2 seasons now. Before he bough it 3 years ago on the survey they had him replace left engine manifolds and risers.) Canvas is new as well very clean boat.
Winterized both V8 I/O's Merc engines, A/C, multi-fixture hot water system, toliet (w/ pump) Batteries storage, Oil/Antifreeze/Fogging oil/Mildew preventor/fuel stabilizer (no generator)

Both has AC/Heat both very good conditions and both are priced with in $1000 difference

BOTH UNDER $40k

Do you need a genny? if not. I'd go with the first boat. 2nd one has been sitting too long for my tastes, you'll be looking at a lot of fuel related issues.
 
Yeah I went to see the 2005 yesterday and oh man was I disappointed ... 2004 I’m going to see this weekend.
 

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Yeah I went to see the 2005 yesterday and oh man was I disappointed ... 2004 I’m going to see this weekend.
Yikes! No wonder price below $40k!
Clean freshwater boats in West Michigan of the same year are bringing numbers in the $60k range!
Hopefully the 2004 will turn out better for you!!
 
Yikes! No wonder price below $40k!
Clean freshwater boats in West Michigan of the same year are bringing numbers in the $60k range!
Hopefully the 2004 will turn out better for you!!

yeah i send those pics to the owner of the 2004 to make sure i am not going into a hunted boat again he laughed and said his boat is the opposite of that. . older gentlemen getting retired from boating and its his only boat hes ever owed. he bought it new in 2004
 
Yikes! No wonder price below $40k!
Clean freshwater boats in West Michigan of the same year are bringing numbers in the $60k range!
Hopefully the 2004 will turn out better for you!!
Nothing in those pics is concerning to me, it's expected with a boat that has sat and a little elbow grease will take care of it. It's the fuel sitting for 3 years that would concern me more.

My last boat was a 2005 Monterey 302 with the same engines. I purchased it October 2018. Engines had 55 hours, 9 of those hours were from the last 3 years. Genny had 9 hours. The boat looked worse than your pics. The upholstery was sun burned, lots of grime, mildew, etc. The hull/gelcoats looked good though, cabin mostly looked good. I got it for a great price, did a lot of cleaning, used it for 2 months and sold it for a nice profit. I noticed a few things before I bought it that the seller fixed though. For example, the genny was louder than it should have been, had a knocking noise. Turned out to be a bad bearing from lack of use, $1000. The genny was basically rebuilt, another $2000 the seller paid.

I was always dealing with a fuel related issues though. Backfiring, stalling, etc. I got lucky, the buyer who bought it from me did not get a survey, I walked away with $10,000 profit.

My point is the one you looked at could be a great deal if you are willing to invest a little time and money to clean it up and invest in things like new fuel pumps, new injectors, pumping out the gas tank(s), etc.
 
Does anyone know how to remove the cabin door on a 03 300DA I want to clean the tracks and rollers
 
ive removed it by just taking out the screws tha hold it to the trucks - had to use a really compact offset driver for the top ones.....the "right" way is probably taking off the "cover" it slides under - i believe you can remove it without removing the sink.....i would strongly suggest getting new trucks (and tracks too) if you are removing the door
 
ANYONE HAVE ANY LEADS ON A CHERRY WOOD TOP GALLEY CABINET DRAWER? MOSTLY JUST NEED THE FRONT FACE AND KNOB.
 
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Does anyone know how to remove the cabin door on a 03 300DA I want to clean the tracks and rollers

Hi,

The top railwheels on my 2002 300DA broke so I had to remove the door to replace it.

It's a heel of a project because you have to remove the whole wet bar station in order to remove the pannel the door slides under.

So in order:

Remove the fridge
Remove the little storage shelve unit underneath the sink
Disconnext the 120v. Outlet underneath the sink
Remove the padded trimming on top of the wet bar
Disconnect the sink water supply
Disconnect the sink drain
Remove caulking around the unit
Unscrew the whole unit top, bottom and right side (underneath the sink)

Once you remove the wet bar unit, unscrew the pannel and remove it

This will give you access to the door rollbar screws
Remove the screw (top and bottom) and remove the door
Replace tracks and rollbar kit (i recommand to replace both tracks and both top and bottom rollers)

Be carefull there are 2 roller kits with different height

The only thing left to do is to reinstall everything in reverse order.

It took me 3 hours to remove everything and fix the door, and 1.5 hours to reinstall everything including the caulking

I will post pictures

Guy B.
 
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Anyone have an idea how to remove the head boards 3 pieces that go around the berth? Can seem to find screws up under or behind.
 
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Anyone have an idea how to remove the head boards 3 pieces that go around the berth? Can seem to find screws up under or behind.
Put your index finger in the seams of the material and move along the length of the seam until you feel the screw heads with your finger tip.
 
Hi,

The top railwheels on my 2002 300DA broke so I had to remove the door to replace it.

It's a heel of a project because you have to remove the whole wet bar station in order to remove the pannel the door slides under.

So in order:

Remove the fridge
Remove the little storage shelve unit underneath the sink
Disconnext the 120v. Outlet underneath the sink
Remove the padded trimming on top of the wet bar
Disconnect the sink water supply
Disconnect the sink drain
Remove caulking around the unit
Unscrew the whole unit top, bottom and right side (underneath the sink)

Once you remove the wet bar unit, unscrew the pannel and remove it

This will give you access to the door rollbar screws
Remove the screw (top and bottom) and remove the door
Replace tracks and rollbar kit (i recommand to replace both tracks and both top and bottom rollers)

Be carefull there are 2 roller kits with different height

The only thing left to do is to reinstall everything in reverse order.

It took me 3 hours to remove everything and fix the door, and 1.5 hours to reinstall everything including the caulking

I will post pictures

Guy B.
There are instructions and pictures starting with post 1069 in this thread. I also have a set of PowerPoint instructions that Sea Ray sent me before I started. Wish there was a way to post files on this site.
 
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Hi,

The top railwheels on my 2002 300DA broke so I had to remove the door to replace it.

It's a heel of a project because you have to remove the whole wet bar station in order to remove the pannel the door slides under.

So in order:

Remove the fridge
Remove the little storage shelve unit underneath the sink
Disconnext the 120v. Outlet underneath the sink
Remove the padded trimming on top of the wet bar
Disconnect the sink water supply
Disconnect the sink drain
Remove caulking around the unit
Unscrew the whole unit top, bottom and right side (underneath the sink)

Once you remove the wet bar unit, unscrew the pannel and remove it

This will give you access to the door rollbar screws
Remove the screw (top and bottom) and remove the door
Replace tracks and rollbar kit (i recommand to replace both tracks and both top and bottom rollers)

Be carefull there are 2 roller kits with different height

The only thing left to do is to reinstall everything in reverse order.

It took me 3 hours to remove everything and fix the door, and 1.5 hours to reinstall everything including the caulking

I will post pictures

Guy B.
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dam! Looks good! i'm going to have to do the same thing looks like. were did you get the new rails? do you have a part# I wonder if anyone makes stainless or aluminum ones??
 
Finally after 2 months of going back and forth I am set for a sea trial and compression test on this beauty.

2004 30DA original owner
200+ hrs 2x 5.7 w/ Bravo 3s
New insight glass
New hot water heater
New trim sensors
New Bottom and out drives painted,
New zincs.
Bilge was cleaned
Electric seemed good
The manifolds, risers and elbows were
replaced in 2014.
In 2017 they did a reseal on those gaskets.
Also in 2017 on port out drive they replaced gimbal bearing, u-joint assembly, bellows & seals.

Hope sea trial goes well we have it scheduled for the 9th. Anything I should really focus on, I’m sure the surveyor knows his stuff but if I should have him focus on one or two things you guys recommend I’ll deff ask.

Thanks
 

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